The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Joy Eau de Parfum by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL:    Joy (current version eau de parfum) is truly a joy when it first goes on the skin as it’s full of lush ylang-ylang and soapy white flowers and bright aldehydes.  It’s a clean smell and one that’s slightly metallic.  The florals are wrapped up in warmth, but at the same time there is a coolness or a bit of aloofness that makes the perfume proper and rather removed.  After some time, a light controlled rose blends with the metallic notes and the soapiness begins to dissipate.  As Joy continues its slow and deliberate path, a jasmine blends itself with the rose…but combined, they’re still very controlled and incredibly proper.  Joy doesn’t transform or morph very much, but in the end, the florals fade and soften a bit, and what you’re left is a lightly warm breeze of light floral sandalwood musk.

From the Jean Patou website:

Created in 1930 at the height of the economic crisis. Joy, a sumptuous blend of roses and jasmine, is the antidote to gloom. Conceived as a perfume to reveal the essence of femininity of every woman, “Joy” is a timeless fragrance, the signature of the house Jean Patou.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Floral steel.  A bit soft, yet rather hard.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JOY:  controlled, reserved, distant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JOY: There are many reviews on Joy, but I haven’t found any on the current eau de parfum version.

BOTTOM LINE:  Joy is legendary as the pillar of the house of Jean Patou.  That said, I can’t honestly say that I don’t know anyone who continues to wear the perfume.  Classics don’t always transfer well to the modern age and to me, Joy is a bit too removed in its personality.  However, I’ll admit that I have a vintage bottle of the eau de cologne version from the 1970s.  It’s clearly Joy, but it’s a much lighter wear as the florals aren’t tinged with the metallic edge and it’s just so much easier to like (but not love as it still leaves me a bit cold).

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Henri Almeras
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Varies


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Absolutely Sublime – Sublime by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL:  How can you not love a perfume’s opening when it’s rounded and buttery and topped with bergamot and orange?!  Sublime’s opening is incredibly full, rich and succulent, almost as if it’s an exotic fruit full of juice and ready to explode.   The perfume is heady without being completely over the top and the ylang-ylang is deliciously creamy.  After a few minutes, a light dust of oak moss appears, but it sits quietly under the wafting flowers and a light vanilla.  The perfume smells like it’s plucked from the heart of the Caribbean, but at the same time, there’s something incredibly cool and controlled about it that removes it from that locale.  As the perfume develops, it becomes more powdery, but no less radiant. After 20 minutes or so, the perfume softens, the florals become lighter, the powder becomes more pronounced and the warmed base becomes more prevalent.  What doesn’t change is that the perfume remains an incredible beauty.  In the end, you’re left with a golden dusty floral that is just the right amount of proper and just the right amount of pretty.

From the Jean Patou website:

SUBLIME is a joyous floral explosion, rich and rounded in contour and soft in texture. Its secret resides in the heart notes where floral notes are played against each other – rose and jasmine are combined with lily-of-the-valley and orange blossom, enhanced by warm notes of vetiver, sandalwood and oak moss. A vibrant cocktail of orange and mandarin provides sparkle and freshness, married with Ylang-Ylang from the Comoro Islands. The femininity and sensuality of Sublime gently emerges in the Vanilla base note.

Flight: Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Fullness: Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom
Wake: Madagascar Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood

Ellen Farner Umbrellas of CherbourgWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ellen Farner as Madeleine in the “Umbrellas of Cherbourg”…an unassuming classic beauty.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUBLIME: gorgeous, contained, sublime

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUBLIME: The Non-Blonde, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  Sublime seems to take the back seat to Jean Patou’s Joy and 1000; but this understated floral beauty should be second to none.  Not as big as 1000 and not as taut at Joy, Sublime is a perfectly named perfume that in my book is an easier wear than both 1000 and Joy.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Jean Kerleo
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: Prices vary greatly online, but can be found for around $50 for 1.7 oz. eau de parfum.  Review based on current eau de parfum version.


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Vintage Chaldée by Jean Patou

Chaldee

WHAT I SMELL:  Vintage Chaldée opens with a deep warm full-bodied floral bouquet.  I’m not sure if the top notes are still there as the perfume sets very quickly into the resin based floral presentation.  The perfume is thick and rich with a deep lilac presenting itself as the floral star.  But the lilac isn’t soft and gentle, instead its thickened with the opoponox.  After a while, a dust covers the base of the perfume, giving it a vintage feel without making it feel like it belongs in another time.  The dust then turns to more of a cotton and for some reason it reminds me if the smell of brand new white tube socks.  After around 20 minutes, the vanilla brings an ever so slight sweetness to the warmed florals.  Funny, after around 1/2 hour, a little bit of civet seems to creep in giving the perfume an added depth and dimension.  Finally, the perfume ends it’s journey in this warmed and flattened bouquet that projects this beautiful and confident persona.

Top notes: orange blossom and hyacinth. Heart: jasmine, lilac and narcissus. Base: opoponax, amber and vanilla.

Large floral hatWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A grand hat from a bygone era.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHALDÉE:  warm, contained, deep

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHALDÉE: Now Smell This, Perfume Shrine, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE:  For an eau de toilette, vintage Chaldee has a large personality and is incredibly long-lasting.  I recently had a chance to test the newly reissued version in eau de parfum concentration and it opened up grand and glorious much like the original.  I was ecstatic.  However, surprisingly enough, it didn’t have the lasting power and it turned rather dark on me.  I do need to give it another chance though…but the vintage….oh my, beautiful.  Thanks to Holly for this beautiful gift!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Henri Almeras in 1927
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but could be unisex
  • Expense: Prices vary on eBay.