Jean Patou | The Scented Hound

March 6, 2023
by The Scented Hound 4 Comments

1000 by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: 1000 opens with warm peachy aldehydes that quickly meld into a blend of violets and rose. The combination of the osmanthus and the florals make for a heady, overly ripened, thickened and metallic perfumed football helmet. Once the helmet’s on, there’s also a buzzing layer of sandalwood that provides an aura of hair spray. But not to worry as a little more passing time reveals a softer side with a more creamy rose taking center stage. 1000 is big, actually bigger than big. Its florals are magnified with an intensity that doesn’t allow you to look away. At the heart of the perfume, tucked underneath is the muted shadow of Patou Joy. Joy tends to be remote and aloof, but 1000 is easily the the more outgoing and gregarious cousin. But the DNA is unmistakable. After some time, 1000 begins to lose some of her exuberance and the metallics and sharpened edges fall away and it makes 1000 more elegant and more wearable. In the end, 1000 leaves us with a big and warmed floral heart.

From Fragrantica:

Top notes are Osmanthus, Violet and Apricot; middle notes are Rose, Jasmine, Geranium and Lily-of-the-Valley; base notes are Sandalwood, Patchouli and Oak.

Pretty Woman – 1990

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Hooker with a heart of gold.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE 1000: heady, out-there, gregarious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 1000: Perfume Smellin’ Things, I Smell Therefore I Am, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: 1000 is a perfume that seems to get lost in the sea of big florals. To me, it’s one of those perfumes that you really need to be in the mood for and that said, the mood just doesn’t come along all that often. I really want to love her…but she’s a bit too “sharp” for me. In any case, 1000 requires that you are light to the touch with your application. But the true bottom line is that Jean Patou perfumes have been discontinued and are no longer in production. Luckily, you can find them on some of discount sites, but for how long?

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Jean Kerleo
Classification: Feminine
Expense: Varies

Review based on the 2014 eau de parfum version.

May 7, 2018
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Joy Eau de Parfum by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: Joy (current version eau de parfum) is truly a joy when it first goes on the skin as it’s full of lush ylang-ylang and soapy white flowers and bright aldehydes. It’s a clean smell and one that’s slightly metallic. The florals are wrapped up in warmth, but at the same time there is a coolness or a bit of aloofness that makes the perfume proper and rather removed. After some time, a light controlled rose blends with the metallic notes and the soapiness begins to dissipate. As Joy continues its slow and deliberate path, a jasmine blends itself with the rose…but combined, they’re still very controlled and incredibly proper. Joy doesn’t transform or morph very much, but in the end, the florals fade and soften a bit, and what you’re left is a lightly warm breeze of light floral sandalwood musk.

From the Jean Patou website:

Created in 1930 at the height of the economic crisis. Joy, a sumptuous blend of roses and jasmine, is the antidote to gloom. Conceived as a perfume to reveal the essence of femininity of every woman, “Joy” is a timeless fragrance, the signature of the house Jean Patou.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Floral steel. A bit soft, yet rather hard.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JOY: controlled, reserved, distant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JOY: There are many reviews on Joy, but I haven’t found any on the current eau de parfum version.

BOTTOM LINE: Joy is legendary as the pillar of the house of Jean Patou. That said, I can’t honestly say that I don’t know anyone who continues to wear the perfume. Classics don’t always transfer well to the modern age and to me, Joy is a bit too removed in its personality. However, I’ll admit that I have a vintage bottle of the eau de cologne version from the 1970s. It’s clearly Joy, but it’s a much lighter wear as the florals aren’t tinged with the metallic edge and it’s just so much easier to like (but not love as it still leaves me a bit cold).

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Henri Almeras
Classification: Feminine
Expense: Varies

June 9, 2016
by The Scented Hound 36 Comments

Absolutely Sublime – Sublime by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: How can you not love a perfume’s opening when it’s rounded and buttery and topped with bergamot and orange?! Sublime’s opening is incredibly full, rich and succulent, almost as if it’s an exotic fruit full of juice and ready to explode. The perfume is heady without being completely over the top and the ylang-ylang is deliciously creamy. After a few minutes, a light dust of oak moss appears, but it sits quietly under the wafting flowers and a light vanilla. The perfume smells like it’s plucked from the heart of the Caribbean, but at the same time, there’s something incredibly cool and controlled about it that removes it from that locale. As the perfume develops, it becomes more powdery, but no less radiant. After 20 minutes or so, the perfume softens, the florals become lighter, the powder becomes more pronounced and the warmed base becomes more prevalent. What doesn’t change is that the perfume remains an incredible beauty. In the end, you’re left with a golden dusty floral that is just the right amount of proper and just the right amount of pretty.

From the Jean Patou website:

SUBLIME is a joyous floral explosion, rich and rounded in contour and soft in texture. Its secret resides in the heart notes where floral notes are played against each other – rose and jasmine are combined with lily-of-the-valley and orange blossom, enhanced by warm notes of vetiver, sandalwood and oak moss. A vibrant cocktail of orange and mandarin provides sparkle and freshness, married with Ylang-Ylang from the Comoro Islands. The femininity and sensuality of Sublime gently emerges in the Vanilla base note.

Flight: Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Fullness: Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom
Wake: Madagascar Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Ellen Farner as Madeleine in the “Umbrellas of Cherbourg”…an unassuming classic beauty.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUBLIME: gorgeous, contained, sublime

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUBLIME: The Non-Blonde, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE: Sublime seems to take the back seat to Jean Patou’s Joy and 1000; but this understated floral beauty should be second to none. Not as big as 1000 and not as taut at Joy, Sublime is a perfectly named perfume that in my book is an easier wear than both 1000 and Joy.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Jean Kerleo
Classification: Feminine
Expense: Prices vary greatly online, but can be found for around $50 for 1.7 oz. eau de parfum. Review based on current eau de parfum version.