The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective

Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens

21 Comments

If a fragrance is golden, amber or red, I want to check it out.  Add oakmoss and Serge Lutens, I have no choice but to check it out!

WHAT I SMELL:  A strong coffee/tonka bean spiced opening (some say it smells curried, I can see that too). The top notes are listed as pine needle and thyme, but what I find is that it’s incredibly gourmand, like some chocolate latte spiced drink or what you smell when you walk by a Yankee Candle Company (if you don’t know this smell, it is overpowering and a little goes a long way).  I find this opening very interesting and intriguing, but I am wondering if I want to smell like that all day.   This opening last for a while, but when it begins to dissipate, the dusty oakmoss which I love so much starts to surface along with a honeyed fruitiness. But the fruit is not sweet, the oakmoss keeps it grounded and earthy.   This phase is strong at first but slowly mellows and Chypre Rouge begins to hug closely to the skin. What I was left with after many hours was a layer of light sweet berry which then strangely moves into a barely detectable incense.

Chypre Rouge Notes:  thyme, pine tree needles, honey, bees wax, jasmine and fruity resins, patchouli, moss, amber, musk and vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  What I was expecting was  a full-bodied Moulin Rouge can-can kind of scent.  Rouge/Red to me means loud and vibrant.  Instead I found this to be a calming, close to the skin, lovely chypre scent that starts off with an outrageous bang.  To illustrate, the opening is pure Pepe Le Pew, while the remainder is his beloved object of affection

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE ROUGE:  bipolar, unique, mysterious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE ROUGE: SmellyThoughts, Now Smell This, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE: This may have show up on my full-bottle want list for the fall.  My only concern is that it disappears on me quicker than I would like.  More testing is definitely needed…and that’s a good thing!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre Fruity
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
  • Expense: Approximately $125-140 for 50ml EdP

Author: The Scented Hound

Just a normal guy with the nose of a beagle!

21 thoughts on “Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens

  1. YAY! I’m so glad you finally tried this (apologies for my laziness in sending you any :’))
    You’ll grow to love it trust me.
    I get a lot of pine, sweet immortelle, gummy red fruits and yes, incense and forest floor. It isn’t the longest lasting Lutens at all, but generous sprays go far enough, and no complains in getting back that lovely opening with a mid day dash.
    Yummy, cosy, warm fluid. It’s still available on certain online shops in the 50ml bottles, be sure to grab one 🙂

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      • I’m not too sure – it says it’s still available on the Lutens sight – but it’s definitely discontinued over here in the UK – I got my bottle on Escentual.com though which was pretty cheap. That’s a UK site though, is it readily available in the US then?

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        • You had me worried. I did some research and they have it at Barney’s in NY in the bell jars. Luckyscent does not have it, but you can find it on some other sites so it does exist.

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          • Yeh it used to be regular a regular in the export line in 50ml sprays, but it got pulled back to the Palais for safekeeping. As I said, it’s quite easy to obtain on sites in the UK. Hope you find it if you go for a bottle. There are so many others gems in the exclusifs line I don’t think I’d invest in a bell jar of the juice, even though I do love it.
            I can’t believe how expensive the belljars are at Barneys! But very lucky to be able to go there to try them all at least. I feel my trip at the end of the year will result in a couple juicy bells.

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  2. Oooh, I’ll need to check this out at the Barneys in midtown NYC!

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  3. It sounds tres magnifique!

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  4. And the lemming is born! It’s a chypre and the juice is reddish, I’m hooked just by the fact it’s chypre. And it sounds wonderful by your review!
    I have to try it!

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    • Please do. I’m really digging it. I just wish my skin did not soak it in and it lasted longer.

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      • I shall get one directly from SL. Few weeks ago I mailed them asking if they could send me their perfume solids book. I got a reply they’ll have new ones at the end of August and they’ll send it as soon as it arrives. I mentioned my blog and got an additional offer to list samples I’d like to try in spray, she’ll send as many of listed as possible. Lucky I am.

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  5. I love the description that likened this to Pepe Le Pew! It actually sounds like something I wouldn’t mind smelling. Bonus points go to it for being a chypre too. 😀

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  6. I was slowly making my way through SL’s export line so my familiarity with “the other side” is really limited: ISM and a couple of samples sent by my generous European friends.

    I don’t know how it happened but I never had any high expectations from this line – mabe that’s why I didn’t get too many disappointments. Or maybe I was just lucky with my sampling. But most of SL’s perfumes I tried I liked. Maybe not FBW liked but wouldn’t mind wearing if I had a bottle or a decant.

    I like your review of Chypre Rouge and I’ll try to test it soon.

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    • Actually, I haven’t tested much of the SL line at all. I am going to do was Lucas is doing and order one of their perfume books to see if there is anything that I can’t live without. CR is interesting, but I’m not sure if it’s full bottle worth. And even though they have it at Barney’s in the bell jar, it’s $390. Ridiculous, but you can get it in the 50ml bottle as well. Maybe I may go that route, if at all.

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      • $390 for a bell bottle that in Europe, including VAT, costs EUR130?!! Wow… If I decide to get a bottle of anything I probably will go with Shop France, Inc.: they take just 10% on top of the price.

        I heard that those wax samples are not too close to real perfumes scent. Especially if to take into the account the complex development of some perfumes.

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  7. Boo hiss. I went to Barneys and the SA could not find the Chypre Rouge! I will be back again around late September to purchase Iris Silver Mist. The bell jars are so adorable!

    Slightly off topic…I like the selling floor layout at Barneys (better than Saks) — it is cozier and you can sniff your way down rows upon rows of perfume. The SAs are hands down friendlier and not predatory. Even though it is further up in midtown, it is worth the extra distance.

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    • Really?? That’s horrible. When I called, the SA that I spoke to said the SL rep was busy helping, but that she would check for me. I had the feeling that she didn’t really have any knowledge and when I named the perfume, she probably had no clue as to what I said, but in the end did tell me that it wasn’t being discontinued and was in stock!!! Craziness. And I hate predatory and rude SAs! I can’t wait to go there in the next couple of months! Yea!

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