The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Philosykos by Diptyque

philosykosWHAT I SMELL:  Philosykos opens with one second of sparkling ozone followed by this inviting coconut and fig.  It’s green and feels earthy and rooty like vines that are meeting the ground and attaching themselves to the earth below.  There’s a creaminess that helps to create what feels like a lush carpet of wood and green and mildly ripening fruit.  For some reason I was expecting this to be sweet, but it’s far from that.  Instead, the perfume is subdued and pulsates within the heart of the jungle with a comforting earthiness.  After around 15 minutes the fragrance warms with a sugared spiced cedar and a light soapiness adding more comfort and security to an already comforting perfume.  Be forewarned however that a little goes a long way with Philosykos.  If you get heavy-handed with your application, this could be way too overpowering.

From the Diptyque website:

In the heat of a Greek summer, “to get to the sea,” recalls Yves, “you had to walk through a natural orchard of wild fig trees.” Returning from Paris, Desmond brought back a few leaves of these trees in a little box. Years later, the leaves had lost none of their fragrance. Philosykos, which in Greek means “friend of the fig tree,” is an ode to the entire tree: the green, pungent freshness of the leaves, the wood warmed in the sun, the milky flavor of the fruit.

Notes from Fragrantica;

Top notes are fig leaf and fig; middle notes are coconut and green notes; base notes are cedar, woody notes and fig tree.

Red Monkeys and FigWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What in my mind, Borneo smells like.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PHILOSYKOS:  inviting, comforting, creamy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PHILOSYKOS: Olfactoria’s Travels, The Scentualist, The Smelly Vagabond

BOTTOM LINE: Philosykos is the perfect perfume for those sunny spring and summer days when you don’t want to fuss and muss with your wardrobe or your perfume.  It’s a comfortable, carefree and easy to wear perfume that makes me wish I could walk outside barefoot and lie in a hammock in the backyard.  If only it wasn’t 30 degrees outside!!!                                          

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:  Olivia Giacobetti
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $90 for 50ml EdT from the Diptyque website


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L’Ombre dans l’Eau by Diptyque

L'Ombre dans L'eauWHAT I SMELL:  L’Ombre dans l’Eau opens sweet, light and pretty with black current and an emergent rose.  It has a bit of a waxy finish like that of a scented candle.  After a minute or so, a green emerges, its leafy and round.  After around 5 minutes, the fragrance starts to really blossom and at this stage I feel like I have a small bouquet of flowers in hand which are a little wild and a little fruity. The composition doesn’t really change  from the rose and the green, but it seems to grow and expand off of my skin.   After about 15 minutes L’Ombre dans l’Eau starts to become sweeter… so much so that it borders on obnoxious.   For an eau de toilette this has some turbo projection and power.   Uggghhh, this just keeps expanding and growing and I feel there is no turning back.

From Fragrantica:  L’Ombre Dans L’Eau (“Shadow in the water”) is a female fragrance from 1983, based on the unusual and beautiful harmony of black currant leaf and Bulgarian rose, which blend perfectly together. 

childbeautypageant2WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Artificially pretty and over the top like a child beauty pageant contestant.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE L’OMBRE DANS L’EAU:  toxic, overbearing, nauseating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’OMBRE DANS L’EAU: Perfume-Smellin’ Things, Bois de Jasmin, peredepierre

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Ombre dans l’Eau is a total scrubber to me that others seem to like.  I don’t get it.  To me, L’Ombre dans l’Eau smells so artificial as if its made from a chemistry set.  Adding that artificiality to a whopping projection makes my head feel like I’m being struck with a rose sledgehammer!  I see this better suited for a home fragrance than a personal fragrance, but even as a scented candle, this would make me want to leave the room.  I’m not really familiar with the Diptyque line, but this does not make me want to explore any more.

  • Bone Rating: 1 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  $88 for 50ml EdT from the Diptyque website