WHAT I SMELL: Eau de Magnolia opens with a lightly fizzy warmed bergamot. It’s rather sour and green, but that sour aspect retreats after around 10 minutes when the magnolia makes an entrance. The fragrance at this point is very light and wispy and is sweetened with a breath of patchouli. All of this seems to be sitting upon a dry woody base that feels like it’s pulling the moisture from the fragrance. After around 20 minutes the magnolia begins to radiate, but it’s contained and never reveals too much of itself. It’s also cool and feels rather removed and distant. After another 20 minutes, the coolness is replaced by some warmth, as if the afternoon begins to filter through the curtains to help lighten and heat up a dark room. In the end you’re left with this light and delicate muted floral that is infused by a interesting citrus component.
Eau de Magonlia notes from the Frederic Malle website:
Top note is Calabrian bergamot; middle notes are magnolia, vetiver and patchouli; base notes are cedar, moss and amber.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A fading southern beauty.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAU DE MAGNOLIA: somber, muted, fragile
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAU DE MAGNOLIA: Olfactoria’s Travels, CaFleureBon, Kafkasesque
BOTTOM LINE: Magnolia can be tricky to recreate; the floral effect can leave a perfume loud, artificial and cloying. Eau de Magnolia manages to escape that trajectory and instead takes it in a direction that is soft, haunting and full of melancholy. It’s pretty, but it’s a perfume that leaves me feeling rather sober.
- Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
- Scent: Floral
- Nose: Carlos Benaim
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: $175 for 50ml
July 14, 2014 at 9:54 am
I will give it a try next time I’m headed for Warsaw. The line is available at Galilu Perfumery.
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July 15, 2014 at 6:22 am
Let me know what you think…I am pretty underwhelmed by it, but have read some reviews where it was loved.
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July 15, 2014 at 6:41 am
OK, I will!
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July 14, 2014 at 10:09 pm
Federic Malle is one of my favourite noses. 🙂 I have yet to try eau de magnolia. Is this tuberose-like in any way or is the magnolia note realistic enough for you?
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July 15, 2014 at 6:24 am
Jassy, this was probably one of the most realistic magnolia’s I have smelled and I don’t get any tuberose at all. When I think of FM, I typically think “big”…this is surprisingly understated.
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July 15, 2014 at 8:08 am
Sounds good to me! Will check it out when I pop by a counter.
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July 15, 2014 at 12:49 am
I’m mildly curious about this perfume but won’t go out of my way to test it: I’m not sure I know how the real magnolia smells, so I don’t even know what to expect.
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July 15, 2014 at 6:26 am
Hi U! Magnolia in it’s real form is a strange creature. It is one of those flowers that you can smell from a block away and it’s pretty and rather sour. But if you get right next to the flower, it really doesn’t smell like much at all. This is a good representation as Magnolia for the most part is pretty muted and not “big”. If you do get a chance to check it out, let me know your thoughts!
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July 20, 2014 at 12:53 am
This fragrance is so not my style or what I usually wear, but I fell super hard for it. It’s fairly linear on me once the bright, bright citrus opening fades. But do quite like it and it surprisingly wears for a lot longer than I ever imagined something like it to!
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July 20, 2014 at 7:06 am
I know you said you liked it and I could see how it’s not your style as it’s so muted. But you know we all have those one offs in our collection that somehow fit when we’re in the mood to where them. I’m trying to figure what my one off is??!
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