review | The Scented Hound

June 9, 2016
by The Scented Hound 36 Comments

Absolutely Sublime – Sublime by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: How can you not love a perfume’s opening when it’s rounded and buttery and topped with bergamot and orange?! Sublime’s opening is incredibly full, rich and succulent, almost as if it’s an exotic fruit full of juice and ready to explode. The perfume is heady without being completely over the top and the ylang-ylang is deliciously creamy. After a few minutes, a light dust of oak moss appears, but it sits quietly under the wafting flowers and a light vanilla. The perfume smells like it’s plucked from the heart of the Caribbean, but at the same time, there’s something incredibly cool and controlled about it that removes it from that locale. As the perfume develops, it becomes more powdery, but no less radiant. After 20 minutes or so, the perfume softens, the florals become lighter, the powder becomes more pronounced and the warmed base becomes more prevalent. What doesn’t change is that the perfume remains an incredible beauty. In the end, you’re left with a golden dusty floral that is just the right amount of proper and just the right amount of pretty.

From the Jean Patou website:

SUBLIME is a joyous floral explosion, rich and rounded in contour and soft in texture. Its secret resides in the heart notes where floral notes are played against each other – rose and jasmine are combined with lily-of-the-valley and orange blossom, enhanced by warm notes of vetiver, sandalwood and oak moss. A vibrant cocktail of orange and mandarin provides sparkle and freshness, married with Ylang-Ylang from the Comoro Islands. The femininity and sensuality of Sublime gently emerges in the Vanilla base note.

Flight: Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Fullness: Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom
Wake: Madagascar Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Ellen Farner as Madeleine in the “Umbrellas of Cherbourg”…an unassuming classic beauty.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUBLIME: gorgeous, contained, sublime

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUBLIME: The Non-Blonde, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE: Sublime seems to take the back seat to Jean Patou’s Joy and 1000; but this understated floral beauty should be second to none. Not as big as 1000 and not as taut at Joy, Sublime is a perfectly named perfume that in my book is an easier wear than both 1000 and Joy.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Jean Kerleo
Classification: Feminine
Expense: Prices vary greatly online, but can be found for around $50 for 1.7 oz. eau de parfum. Review based on current eau de parfum version.

June 6, 2016
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

Shalini Parfum by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL: Shalini opens beautifully with an initial rush of neroli that’s lush, juicy and lightly sun sweetened. A lovely tiare buzzes above a lightly sharpened hair spray note of sandalwood and there’s a slight soapiness that encompasses the somewhat large, but rather tame florals. The perfume lives in this slightly soapy, lightly warm cocoon for some time. After around 20 minutes, the perfume seems to warm considerably, as if the heat of skin is a catalyst to start a chemical reaction. The tuberose then starts to make its entrance, but in a very soft and deliberate manner as if it’s in no rush. The tuberose is restrained with all its pungent attributes removed and what you’re left with is the soft and comforting light waxiness from the flower. At the same time, Shalini starts to turn towards the green as the floral stems add just the right amount of color to make the perfume feel as if it’s a bouquet rather than just a collection of flowers. As the perfume slowly progresses, the neroli comes forward once again with a light dew to rest on the green. Here the perfume resides, so restrained, so beautiful and so refined. Shalini is a lady in every sense of the word.

From Shalini Parfums:

A bouquet of white flowers – tuberose, neroli and tiare – this precious fragrances evokes an intoxicating sensuality. The rare and pure scent of neroli blooms above the heart of tuberose and tiare while the depth and mystery of sandalwood and musk permeate the senses.

Saks 5th Avenue, Los Angeles- 1940

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beautiful, classic Hollywood interiors. Architectural masterpieces designed for creating dramatic settings. The scene: Sak’s 5th Avenue, Los Angeles, 1940… in comes a beautifully dressed, regal and gracious lady and all eyes are transfixed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SHALINI: warm, approachable, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALINI: CaFleureBon, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE: Shalini is an ethereal beauty that glides into a room. The perfume doesn’t develop as much as it transcends. Shalini is like a dream.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Maurice Roucel
Classification: Feminine. Confession: As feminine as this is, it’s a beauty that I would have no problem wearing myself.
Expense: $3,000 for the limited edition Lalique flacon pictured above. $250 for 10 ml version. Parfum extrait.

June 2, 2016
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Jermyn Street by Floris

WHAT I SMELL: Jermyn Street opens with a sparking bergamot and a lightly sugared mandarin. The opening is warm, incredibly refreshing, bright and rather formal. Soon, the vibrant opening moves more towards a woody flatness that’s slightly herbal. The perfume is really hard to describe at this point, but what comes to mind is a bit of chalkiness, just like the smell when you wipe down and clean a chalkboard with water. But that evolution doesn’t last all that long as well, and instead a light sweetness moves back in. The perfume is full of small nuances and is very restrained and proper and clean and neat. As it continues to develop, the juniper berry gives the perfume a gin martini vibe, but one with just a dash of cream and a splash of soap. At this point, the perfume becomes warm and comforting as the amber wraps itself around the musky woody notes. At the same time, projection increases, but not enough to shout, but just enough to make you noticeable.

From the Floris website:

Inspired by what has been the backbone of the family business for nearly 300 years in the unique area of London that is St James’s and our home at 89 Jermyn Street, this fragrance, like its inspiration has the feel of refined elegance, understated class and style. Drawing on notes of gin with a splash of lemon, an initial burst of citrus and green notes have been blended with the theme of vetiver. The vetiver runs through the fragrance from its introduction to the base and is supported in the heart, accompanied by juniper with a contemporary twist of coriander, a subtle complement in gin creation. The fragrance also draws inspiration from the London plane trees which proudly still stand in front of the shop today, and the fresh scent of fine crisp cotton found within the renowned shirtmakers residing in the iconic location named after Henry Jermyn in 1664.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Green Vetiver, Violet
Heart Notes: Coriander, Vetiver, Armoise, Juniper Berry
Base Notes: Amber, Cedarwood, Musk, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfect perfume for the best dressed hipster. Classic with just enough modern to make it all the perfect for an old school vibe.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JERMYN STREET: proper, effortless, bonny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JERMYN STREET: Candid Magazine

BOTTOM LINE: Jermyn Street is a proper, yet effortless perfume for the modern and classic man. Clean and sophisticated without being stuffy, it’s an easy fit for anyone. I love perfumes like this…even though I may not be dressed to the nines, when you spritz this on you feel like you are.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Edward Bodenham
Classification: Leans masculine
Expense: $192 for 50 ml eau de parfum