The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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The Random 10: Arquiste’s Carlos Huber

carloshuber2Since launching Arquiste in 2012, Carlos Huber has made himself  a formidable presence in the ever-growing list of niche perfume brands.  His perfumes, created in conjunction with perfumers Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier are interesting and unique while still being easy to wear and universal in nature.

Huber, originally from Mexico City, moved to New York City in 2006 to study historic preservation at Columbia University.  While in NY, he met perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux with whom he studied and learned about perfumes and the industry which led to the development and launch of the Arquiste brand.  Combining the love for perfume with a love of history has paid off with the brand as Carlos uses historical inspiration for the creation of his fragrances.  Some of his perfumes are aged in time, but his latest two releases, ÉL and ELLA are woven around more of a personal history as they were inspired by the stories that his parents told him of the sun and fun of Acapulco in the 1970s.  Once again, Mr. Huber manages to capture history in a bottle with a pair of perfumes that take you back in time through a beautiful sensorial journey.

So what makes Carlos tick?  Maybe the Random 10 will reveal a little more about that…

  1. My most prized possession in the world is…two first editions architecture treaties by Jacques Francois Blondel, from 1737-38. (“De la distribution des maisons de plaisance et de la décoration des édifices en général”)
  2. The way I prefer to apply my fragrance is to…do six spritzes, two for the back of the neck (each side) two in the front, and two for each forearm.
  3. The most influential person in my life is / was…probably my parents.
  4. I always cry when…I listen to Cat Power’s ‘The Greatest’ or Natalia LaFourcade’s ‘No mas llorar’
  5. My thoughts regarding natural vs. synthetics are …quality is the benchmark: bad naturals are as bad as bad synthetics. Good synthetics can be really good too, but nothing is as noble and alive as an exceptional natural.
  6. I start my day off every morning by …going to the gym.
  7. The most joyous event in my life thus far…probably winning the Fashion Group International Rising Star Awards for Beauty Entrepreneur in 2013. But to be honest, I get pretty excited about pretty basic things on a regular basic. When i’m with my group of friends having fun, it’s as if it’s the best day/night ever! I’m also very close to my siblings, so seeing them happy is really special for me.
  8. The fragrance that I most dislike is…Paco Rabanne 1 Million. I just cannot.
  9. When I’m looking for quiet time, I …watch period movies on Netflix at home.
  10. My fragrance preferences over time have…become more diverse, but I still like my old-school classics.

Thanks for Carlos for revealing a little more about himself with The Random 10.  If you want to hear what music makes Carlos cry, you can by clicking here:  Cat Power “The Greatest” and Natalia LaFourcade “No Mas Llorar”

And check out the latest releases from Arquiste, ÉL and ELLA at Arielle Shoshana and other fine retailers.  For more information about the Arquiste line of perfumes, check out the Arquiste website at:  arquiste.com


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Raw Secret by Phuong Dang Perfumes

raw-secretWHAT I SMELL:  Raw Secret opens with a wave of muted aldehydes which are quickly met with a light tea surrounded by a leveled and flattened mandarin.  After a few minutes, the perfume begins to project with the tea at the center.  The tea is warmed, rounded and thickened in a chewy and slightly rubbery consistency.  The perfume is absolutely dreamy and it feels like a lullaby that is rocking you softly and gently leaving you in an envelopment of content.  As the perfume continues to develop, the tea moves more towards a dried lily of the valley.  It’s incredibly soft and green without being dewy.   Here, the lily blooms alongside a bed of delicate white flowers which feel like a floating embrace above a woodied amber radiating base.  The perfume then starts to dry and lightly powder…and the gleaming flowers are magnificent in a way that makes me want to wrap the entire perfume around me.  In the end, Raw Secret grows in projection to become a beautifully powdered floral hug warmed by amber that’s oh so comforting.

From the Phuong Dang website:

“You reach out to touch me. Linger… I smile because I am happy. Feel so safe in your warm embrace… I just want to hold on, so tightly. Please get closer, to know me… I am only me. And yet with you, I am so much stronger.” —Phuong Dang

Raw Secret Notes – 

Top: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Mandarin, Red Pepper, Tea Leaves, Ginger

Heart: Jasmine Absolute, Lily of the Valley, Imaginary White Flowers

Base: Amber, Sandalwood

loveWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  love

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RAW SECRET:  incandescent, embracing, at peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RAW SECRET:  None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Brand creator and namesake, Phuong Dang has launched a debut collection of ten perfumes, primarily created with perfumer Bertrand Duchafour.  Raw Secret is the only perfume that steps outside the Duchafour collaboration and was created by perfumer Marina Jung Allegret… and it’s one of my favorite in the line.  In all, the entire collection is comprised of extraits which are incredibly smooth, refined and easy to wear.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent Floral Citrus
  • Nose: Maria Jung Allegret
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $450 for 100 ml parfum extrait.  Available exclusively at Barneys.


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Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur

bucoliques-de-provenceWHAT I SMELL:  Not surprisingly, Bucoliques de Provence opens with a soft cashmere iris which is soon met with a deep brown sugared and herbal lavender.  It’s slightly medicinal, but very comforting; and in all it’s just so pretty and calming.  Soon, a mix of herbs and spices pepper the lavender, making the perfume feel a bit chewy vs. the standard powdered dry lavender that we associate with the note.  As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to flatten and it takes on a more woody consistency.  At the same time, the spices really come forward…actually, in a quite caustic manner.  What used to be calming, now has an unfortunate bite.  After quite some time, the lavender turns to a laundry detergent familiarity and the perfume feels like it should be used as more of a bed or room spray.  Supposedly there is some leather in here, but I’m not picking any of it up.  Instead I am getting a dried flower kitchen witch vibe…and that’s not a good thing.  After quite some time, the iris comes back in with a light powder and the kitchen witch begins to dissipate.  The perfume becomes soft and kind of pretty…but unfortunately I’m left with a headache caused by the kitchen witch development

kitchen-witch

Kitchen Witch

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Bucoliques de Provence is a limited edition fragrance. It marks the beginning of a new collection inspired by different regions of France. This perfume pays homage to the history of Grasse. Perfumery in this region with its distinctive lavender fields, dates back to the 17th century and is linked to the historic production of leather. The perfumer has combined lavender and leather with iris and spices creating a soft, faceted scent. Bucoliques de Provence is modern in its pure and naturalistic approach.

Inspired by the savoir-faire of artisans in Grasse, an accord of leathery lavender, modernised by iris and spices.

gray-gooseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A gray goose…kind of pretty, but not as pretty as a white swan, a little annoying and not as fun as a duck.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: wannabe, wafting, cleanser

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: The Scented Salamander, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: The perfume’s opening is divine until you get to the kitchen witch in the middle which makes you want to run.  In the end, the perfume does calm down and becomes a quiet powdered iris, but that’s not enough of a save to make me want to come back.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather?
  • Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $105 for 50 ml eau de parfum