The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur

bucoliques-de-provenceWHAT I SMELL:  Not surprisingly, Bucoliques de Provence opens with a soft cashmere iris which is soon met with a deep brown sugared and herbal lavender.  It’s slightly medicinal, but very comforting; and in all it’s just so pretty and calming.  Soon, a mix of herbs and spices pepper the lavender, making the perfume feel a bit chewy vs. the standard powdered dry lavender that we associate with the note.  As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to flatten and it takes on a more woody consistency.  At the same time, the spices really come forward…actually, in a quite caustic manner.  What used to be calming, now has an unfortunate bite.  After quite some time, the lavender turns to a laundry detergent familiarity and the perfume feels like it should be used as more of a bed or room spray.  Supposedly there is some leather in here, but I’m not picking any of it up.  Instead I am getting a dried flower kitchen witch vibe…and that’s not a good thing.  After quite some time, the iris comes back in with a light powder and the kitchen witch begins to dissipate.  The perfume becomes soft and kind of pretty…but unfortunately I’m left with a headache caused by the kitchen witch development

kitchen-witch

Kitchen Witch

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Bucoliques de Provence is a limited edition fragrance. It marks the beginning of a new collection inspired by different regions of France. This perfume pays homage to the history of Grasse. Perfumery in this region with its distinctive lavender fields, dates back to the 17th century and is linked to the historic production of leather. The perfumer has combined lavender and leather with iris and spices creating a soft, faceted scent. Bucoliques de Provence is modern in its pure and naturalistic approach.

Inspired by the savoir-faire of artisans in Grasse, an accord of leathery lavender, modernised by iris and spices.

gray-gooseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A gray goose…kind of pretty, but not as pretty as a white swan, a little annoying and not as fun as a duck.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: wannabe, wafting, cleanser

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: The Scented Salamander, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: The perfume’s opening is divine until you get to the kitchen witch in the middle which makes you want to run.  In the end, the perfume does calm down and becomes a quiet powdered iris, but that’s not enough of a save to make me want to come back.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather?
  • Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $105 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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La Chasse aux Papillons by L’Artisan Parfumeur

L'artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons-300x300WHAT I SMELL:  La Chasse aux Papillons opens with a muted bergamot and a soft and demure orange blossom that’s tangy green.  The semi-sweet perfume is lyrical as it dances and pirouettes off my skin with wisps like soft breezes.  Overall, the perfume is incredibly girlish, pretty and joyous.  The lightened jasmine adds just the right amount of depth with a tad bit of flattened earthened dirt.  But by no means is this a dirty perfume.  Instead, it’s all sunshine and garden with the white flowers, highlighted by an incredibly soft tuberose and the lightest of green.  La Chasse aux Papillons does not develop much, but it doesn’t have to as it’s a simple, pretty and beautifully sunny and happy perfume.

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Chasing butterflies, surrounded by white flowers. A fragrance icon, perfect for summer days.

Imagine a summer garden flooded with sunshine, full of delicate white flowers, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose and lime blossom; scents mingling to intoxicate the senses. Sunlight catches the wings of butterflies as they dart among the trees and flowers. Somewhere in the garden you can hear the laughter of children as they chase the butterflies, trying in vain to catch them as they escape on a sunny breeze. This is La Chasse aux Papillons (Chasing Butterflies), the scent of sun-kissed skin, luminous and transparent; a fragrance to make the summer months last that little bit longer.

Notes: Linden blossom, Jasmine, Lemon blossom, Tuberose

jeanettemcdonaldWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An operettic Jeanette McDonald (sans Nelson Eddy).

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS: delightful, charming, coquettish

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS: Bois de Jasmin, Megan in Saint Maxime, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  La Chasse aux Papillons is utterly charming, beautiful and delightfully feminine and a completely wonderful perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Anne Flipo
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $145 for 100 ml eau de toilette

Sample courtesy of Arielle Shoshana.  Opinion my own.


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New Release: Noir Exquis by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Noir Exquis

WHAT I SMELL:  Noir Exquis opens slightly sour at first, quickly moving to a gourmand breaded pastry that is covered with a hazelnut glaze.  After a couple of minutes, the perfume begins to grow and it smells just like Coffee-mate Hazelnut Non-Dairy Creamer.  After a few more minutes the perfume takes on a slight hair spray note, making the perfume slightly prickly, but it also makes it feel like it’s covered in raw sugar, meaning that it’s sweet without being saccharine sweet.  After some more time, a maple syrup note creeps in and it melds with the existing nutty structure.  Thankfully, after 30 minutes, the whole structure seems to tame.  The sweetened hazelnut becomes quieter and the perfume takes on a more woody sandalwood and patchouli note tinged with a burnt amber.

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

The inspiration for Noir Exquis is an unexpected rendez-vous in a French patisserie.  Two people meet over a coffee. In this delicious atmosphere of patisserie and coffee, hushed looks are exchanged. This delightful rendez-vous is the beginning of a new story with Noir Exquis.

Noir Exquis is a work of contrast and the unexpected. The addictive note of coffee, combined with the warm and comfortable notes of maple syrup, glazed chestnuts and orange blossom, brings an intriguing juxtaposition to this fragrance.
Rich and velvety, Noir Exquis connects these two persons during this moment beyond time and place.

Opulent and gourmand, Noir Exquis is a fragrance with a warm and charismatic aura.

Notes: Glazed chestnut, Coffee, Maple syrup, Macassar Wood 

Coffee-mate HazelnutWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I can’t get this out of my head…Coffee-mate Hazelnut Non-Dairy Creamer

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NOIR EXQUIS: creamy, sweetened, breakfasty (is that a word?)

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOIR EXQUIS:  Kafkaesque, Bois de Jasmin, Megan in Saint Maxime

BOTTOM LINE:  If you like flavored coffee creamers in your morning coffee and like gourmand scents, this may be for you.  Personally, I don’t want to feel like I just rubbed a breakfast pastry over myself.  In the end, the perfume does quiet down, but it still radiates this artificial creaminess.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Vanilla
  • Nose:  Bertrand Duchaufour
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $120 for 1.7 oz. eau de parfum