The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Mugler Angel Muse

publicite-angel-muse-720x334

WHAT I SMELL:  Angel Muse goes on the skin all sweet, nutty and über creamy; it lies on your skin as if was applied like butter to toast.  The perfume is sweet, but not sugary; instead it’s more gourmand.  As the perfume develops, that creamy nutty buttery concoction moves to the less creamy, but the projection begins to grow and with it the patchouli comes front and center with a pulsating rhythm of brown sugar and vetiver which helps to keep the perfume from going full on sweet.  As it continues to develop, a tonka and vanilla note comes forward which helps to give the perfume some needed depth.  In the end, the perfume resides in a warmed cocoon of semi sweet-comfort and ultimately after many hours, Angel Muse ends up feeling like a comfy musky vanilla pillow.  But best of all Angel Muse is a bright and happy scent and that’s sure to make you smile.

From the Mugler website:

Tantalizing. Delicious. Supremely feminine. Discover ANGEL Muse, the new addictive fragrance you will #HateToLove…. Cosmic explosions collide with magnetic attraction to create an irresistible Eau de Parfum never experienced before. Get ready to lose your mind! Fragrance notes: Grapefruit, Pink Peppercorn, Hazelnut Cream, Vetiver, Patchouli.

full-houseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Full House, early ’90s.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ANGEL MUSE:  big, noticeable, energized

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ANGEL MUSE: Musings of a Muse, My Life Along the Lishops, Complexions Beauty Blog

BOTTOM LINE:  There’s something very nostalgic and comforting about Angel Muse.  Like a throwback in time, the perfume is big and bold and fits like a well-worn sweatshirt or sweater.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Vanilla
  • Nose: Quentin Bisch
  • Classification: Leans feminine and young
  • Expense: $70 for 1 oz. Eau de Parfum


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New Release: Noir Exquis by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Noir Exquis

WHAT I SMELL:  Noir Exquis opens slightly sour at first, quickly moving to a gourmand breaded pastry that is covered with a hazelnut glaze.  After a couple of minutes, the perfume begins to grow and it smells just like Coffee-mate Hazelnut Non-Dairy Creamer.  After a few more minutes the perfume takes on a slight hair spray note, making the perfume slightly prickly, but it also makes it feel like it’s covered in raw sugar, meaning that it’s sweet without being saccharine sweet.  After some more time, a maple syrup note creeps in and it melds with the existing nutty structure.  Thankfully, after 30 minutes, the whole structure seems to tame.  The sweetened hazelnut becomes quieter and the perfume takes on a more woody sandalwood and patchouli note tinged with a burnt amber.

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

The inspiration for Noir Exquis is an unexpected rendez-vous in a French patisserie.  Two people meet over a coffee. In this delicious atmosphere of patisserie and coffee, hushed looks are exchanged. This delightful rendez-vous is the beginning of a new story with Noir Exquis.

Noir Exquis is a work of contrast and the unexpected. The addictive note of coffee, combined with the warm and comfortable notes of maple syrup, glazed chestnuts and orange blossom, brings an intriguing juxtaposition to this fragrance.
Rich and velvety, Noir Exquis connects these two persons during this moment beyond time and place.

Opulent and gourmand, Noir Exquis is a fragrance with a warm and charismatic aura.

Notes: Glazed chestnut, Coffee, Maple syrup, Macassar Wood 

Coffee-mate HazelnutWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I can’t get this out of my head…Coffee-mate Hazelnut Non-Dairy Creamer

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NOIR EXQUIS: creamy, sweetened, breakfasty (is that a word?)

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOIR EXQUIS:  Kafkaesque, Bois de Jasmin, Megan in Saint Maxime

BOTTOM LINE:  If you like flavored coffee creamers in your morning coffee and like gourmand scents, this may be for you.  Personally, I don’t want to feel like I just rubbed a breakfast pastry over myself.  In the end, the perfume does quiet down, but it still radiates this artificial creaminess.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Vanilla
  • Nose:  Bertrand Duchaufour
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $120 for 1.7 oz. eau de parfum


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New Release: Black Flower Mexican Vanilla and the Launch of Dame Perfumery Scottsdale

Dame Perfumery LogoI guess it’s only fitting that on Labor Day I should write about one of the hardest working men in the fragrance industry, Jeffrey Dame.  Together with his son, Cullen, they have founded Dame Perfumery Scottsdale.  Jeffrey’s roots are deep within the fragrance industry.  Over 35 years ago he started his perfumery career in the buying office at Neiman-Marcus in Dallas and spent a few decades in New York and Paris working in fragrance for Estee Lauder, Parfums Caron Paris and with the American fashion designers Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene to name a few.  So it’s not surprising that this new venture has culminated with him combining his knowledge and love of fragrance with his love of family.

Dame Perfumery Collection of 6 Eau de Toilette Fragrances

Dame Perfumery’s Collection of 6 Eau de Toilette Fragrances

As part of the initial collection, Dame Perfumery has launched six creations for women, all of which are eau de toilettes and all of which are designed with a bright top note, a pretty floral heart and a warm sensual drydown.  Just this past August, the monthly perfume subscription service Olfactif offered all six as an exclusive preview:

  • Mate, Heliotrope & Patchouli
  • Pear, Waterlily & Amber
  • Verbena, Freesia & Musk
  • Cassis, Rose & Sandalwood
  • Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom & Vetiver
  • Peach Blossom, Violet & Vanilla

Of course, I have a favorite among the group;  the Cassis, Rose and Sandalwood.  Who can’t resist a sparking rose and deep juicy cassis??!

What I find refreshing about these perfumes is that Jeffrey Dame’s philosophy on perfume shines through with these creations.  He doesn’t abide by the thought that perfume is art.  Instead, he believes that perfume is pleasure and that perfumes are meant to be worn and enjoyed and not meant to be worshipped.  I can’t agree more.

And as if introducing six fragrances into the world isn’t enough to kick off the perfumery’s launch, Dame Perfumery also launched Black Flower Mexican Vanilla which is a more unisex composition and very different from the other offerings.  Here’s my view on this fantastic vanilla fragrance:

Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla

Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla

WHAT I SMELL:   Black Flower Mexican Vanilla opens with a vanilla and caramel almost cocoa’d opening that’s rather nutty and gourmand.  It’s strange that in one sense the fragrance is dry and peppered, but then again I’ll take another sniff of my wrist and the fragrance appears to be more rich, smooth, creamy and exotic.  Be it peppery and dry or smooth and creamy, the one thing that is consistent with the fragrance is that it’s vanilla richness without the sweetness.  After around 10 minutes, flecks of pepper dot the fragrant landscape as the florals begin to make an appearance. The florals are pretty without becoming too feminine and as they begin to develop the fragrance becomes more radiant and the sweetness from both floral notes and vanilla make for a delightful dance.  As the drydown continues, the fragrance continues to soften and retreats to a light vanilla floral dream that is dry and somewhat powdery.

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla notes:  vanilla absolute with touches of lemon, grapefruit, caramel, nutmeg, gardenia, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk and tonka.

A Mexican Dream

A Mexican Dream

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A Mexican dream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BLACK FLOWER MEXICAN VANILLA:  smooth, woody, subdued

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLACK FLOWER MEXICAN VANILLA:  The Muse in Wooden Shoes

BOTTOM LINE: Vanilla has a tendency to wear me out as it can easily become overbearing and sweet.  Here, the vanilla is blended nicely with the florals so even though there is a sweetness about the perfume, it can’t be labeled as “sweet.”   And for being 90 degrees today, the fragrance seems to be working, another big feat for a vanilla fragrance because I usually find they work best in cooler temperatures.  Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is a Mexican beauty for sure.

Earlier, I mentioned that Dame Perfumery is a family affair.  Not only is Jeffrey Dame’s son part of this endeavor, his father V. Dave Dame is Dame Perfumery’s Artist in Residence and was the creator of the artwork for Black Flower Mexican Vanilla.  I believe that this family collaboration is going to be making some great waves in the industry and I look forward more to come, including the intriguing sounding Hatch New Mexico Chili fragrance that they will be launching later this year.

All of the fragrances listed above can be found on the Dame Perfumery Scottsdale website!