Oriental Woody | The Scented Hound

January 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Releases: Constance & Quentin by Deco London Perfumes

CONSTANCE

WHAT I SMELL: Constance opens with the most inviting deep mandarin floral combination; it’s gorgeous, big, beautiful and rather buttery…and it’s thick and juicy and completely rapturous…oh, I could keep on going! In a short time, the thick sheen of juice soon begins to thin and soften and the rather fruity opening moves to a light spice with jasmine at the heart. Constance remains incredibly pretty, but the big, and bold moves towards the more mysterious and exotic. Vanilla sets the tone moving forward, but with a light hand. The perfume is so incredibly warm and inviting and it feels as if it pulses off the skin as if it were an extension of one’s being. Additionally, a bit of labdanum adds just the right amount of amber like dimension keeping the vanilla in check. In the end, Constance is this intoxicating warm and exotic floral that’s spiced, lightly powdered and incensed. Constance is a head turner and absolutely beautiful.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love fruity and spicy scents, jasmine, luxury woods and vanilla…

The year is 1927…Constance is vivacious, passionate and chic; effortlessly elegant in tailored blouses and trousers during the day, but at night she is the centre of attention in an Egyptian-inspired beaded dress, red lipstick and daring high heels …

Top – Bergamot, Mandarin Blossom, Mimosa

Middle – Raspberry Blossom, Rose, Pink Pepper, Jasmine, Patchouli

Base – Sandalwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, Beeswax, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A woman of mystery…Mata Hari.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CONSTANCE: intoxicating, rapturous, temptress (OK, so that’s a noun)

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Robertet
Classification: Feminine, but I could see a man wearing this as well.
Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

QUENTIN

WHAT I SMELL: Quentin opens with a rather funky herbal tarragon and a cinnamon that mixed together is bold and smells a little off. This initial funk makes me wonder what kind of ride I’m in for. Soon enough, the herbal discordant opening starts to even out the rough edges and the mixture moves from the funkified to a more flattened woodiness and light leather. At this stage, the perfume is really dry and the leather is front and center and a woody vetiver takes its place next to it. In addition, a patchouli adds just a light sweetness to the perfume, but it chooses to stay in the background. For some time, there’s a noticeable petroleum smell, as if the leather was cured in oil and grease. But as the perfume develops, that starts to dissipate and a floral warmth takes its place. On paper, this smelled a great deal to me like Miss Dior. On my skin however, I am thinking not so much…that is until around 30 minutes into the wear. And that’s a good thing. Miss Dior rocks my world and it is about as masculine of a woman’s perfume as there is. As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes less Miss Dior and ends up in this petroleum fueled leather spiced musk. Quentin is a traditional scent fortified with just the right amount of daring.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love assertive elegant woody scents, leather notes and musk…

The year is 1925… Quentin is charming, stylish and impeccably attired and is always impeccably attired in flamboyant style. You will often find him relaxing by day at the cricket drinking a fine Sauvignon blanc and at parties by night sipping champagne…

Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon Bark, Tarragon

Heart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Patchouli

Base notes: Moss, Leather, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The original Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE QUENTIN: bold, self-assured, headstrong

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
- Nose: Robertet
Classification: Masculine
- Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DECO LONDON PERFUMES: BGirl Rhapsody

BOTTOM LINE: The Deco London line beautifully captures the essence of traditional perfumery, but with a modern sensibility. As you can see, Constance is my favorite in the line, but the feminine floral essence of Millicent comes in a close second. For the men, Quentin has that modern edge that makes it unique, but Ernest is an incredible old school classic perfume. What a great start for a new perfume house. Welcome Deco London, you’ve made quite the splash!

Samples courtesy of Indigo Perfumery.

December 2, 2015
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

Beaufort London East India

WHAT I SMELL: East India opens with a rush of cardamom and sharp black pepper which is quickly met with a moistened burnt wood, like a campfire that has just been extinguished by water. The perfume feels as if it has been aged in an oak cask like a fine liquor waiting to be released only until the peak of perfection. And soon enough, that characteristic is met with a combination of light dry whiskey mixed with a very organic tobacco. There’s nothing sweet about the perfume, but a light leather and oak stained tobacco give a slight impression that there is a semi-sweetness lurking in the recesses of the cask. As the perfume develops, it starts to dry out and the burnt birch really takes hold in addition to a slightly soured oud that wafts in on top of this increasingly large plume of smoke. Thankfully, the smokiness begins to recede and mellow to more of a burnt hue. In the end, East India mellows to a very comforting dry and slightly mysterious smoky wood.

East India Notes:

Cardamom, Black Pepper, Tea Leaf, Whisky, Incense, Opium, Tobacco, Birch, Oud

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A trading ship full of the never before seen exotic and magical spices, liquors and tobaccos from the Far East.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAST INDIA: masculine, adventurous, smoke-swept

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAST INDIA: The Black Narcissus, Fashion for Lunch, The Grooming Guide

BOTTOM LINE: One of three perfumes in the “Come Hell or High Water” collection, East India captures the majesty and mystery of the high seas and the adventure that came with exploring the Far East. The perfume goes on strong, but then mellows to a smoky haze. But because of the smokiness, it’s probably not best suited for the office. However, after hours, it would work well for making some of your own swashbuckling adventures.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Oriental
Classification: Leans masculine
Expense: $140 for 50ml Eau de Parfum. Available at Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

July 13, 2015
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

Nin-Shar by Jul et Mad Paris

WHAT I SMELL: Nin-Shar opens warm and lightly boozy with a creamed rose. It has a thick texture and a lovely milky radiance that when smelled warms the back of your throat. The perfume is lightly sweetened, but it can’t be called a sweet perfume. Instead, the rose, front and center, is wrapped around some beefy wood and an oud that blends masterfully with the rose rather than takes it over. Nin-Shar develops slowly as you wear it, but the nuances are so wonderfully subtle as not to jar the wearer. But what becomes a bit more predominant with the drydown is a cedar note that brings a marvelous natural note to the perfume. But after an hour or so, that cedar blends towards the back of the perfume. The perfume then adds a light layer of powder along with a very rounded juiciness to the mix providing for the perfect finishing touch to make this perfume the utmost in rose elegance. Overall the projection is impressive and the longevity is superb. Nin-Shar is a rose lover’s dream.

From the Jul et Mad website:

This very contrast is evoked in “Nin-Shar”. The purest and best quality absolute of Turkish Rose was employed here, revealing a rich, profound, strong, powerful multifaceted fragrance where soft, comforting, floral, powdery facets, intertwine with strong, green, balsamic, woody, earthy notes, a pure representation of the entire plant, from the soft, floral petals to the green leaves, stem and thorns, and all the way to the roots.

Top Notes: Bergamote, Liqueur de Rose, Essence de Davana
Middle Notes: Absolu de Rose Turque, Jasmin d’Egypte, Fraction Patchouli
Base Notes: Oud, Benjoin, Vanille Bourbon, Cèdre de Virginie, Santal, Absolu d’Encens

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful pink and cream-colored rose.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NIN-SHAR: creamy, opulent, rapturous

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NIN-SHAR: Colognoisseur, Chemist in the Bottle, Persefume

BOTTOM LINE: One of the three perfumes in the Les White collection, Nin-Shar is my favorite. But surprisingly enough, Nea, a fruity gourmand, which typically would not be something that I would normally gravitate to, comes a close second. But all in the collection are wonderful in their own right. I’m also not a big oud fan, but there is something about the rose-oud combination that is wonderful. On their own, the two notes can over dominate any perfume, but here they work their magic in perfect harmony.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Sidnoie Lancesseur
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $190 for 50 ml parfum extrait