The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


New Release: Jul et Mad Secrets du Paradis Rouge

secrets-du-paradis-rougeWHAT I SMELL: Intoxicating is what the opening of Secrets du Paradis Rouge is as it’s sweet and lush with this incredible honeyed rich orange.  It’s also waxy and thick, incredibly gourmand and head spinning pretty.  The thickened orange like a sheen of wax paper feels like it’s covering the skin like a sheath.  After a little while, the perfume begins to warm ever so slightly with an almond hue.  The scent is delightful but at the same time has a very comforting and reassuring edge that makes you feel that all is right with the world.  A lovely understated musk enters and the waxy begins to dry.  The orange blossom sweetness makes way for a sweetened woody patchouli and vanilla.  All combined, the experience is opulent and grand.  The perfume dances between the orange and the amber with a radiance that burns brightly.  This is a perfume that cannot help but be noticed, but it does so in the most benevolent manner.  As the perfume continues it’s journey, the musk becomes more prominent, but still warmed by the benzoin and amber the fragrance continues to radiate a warmth and glow that makes this shimmer on into the night.

From the Jul et Mad website:

A timeless ode to the Orange Blossom, opening on a note of Neroli Absolut and sublimed by the freshness of the orange peel and the Davana essence. Scents of almond, honey and rose accompany us through the mysterious streets in the heart of the Medina.

The gates of a Secret Paradise open suddenly, unveiling a majestic Orange Blossom that blends perfectly with sensual notes of vanilla and Tonka beans; the whole, sustained by a perfectly balanced accord of benzoin, amber and musk.

Head : Orange, Mandarin, Davana, Neroli Marocco, Cloves
Heart: Orange Blossom Absolut, Damascus Rose, Bees Wax, Almond
Bottom: Patchouli, Timbersilk, Tonka Beans, Vanila, Benzoin, Amber, Musk

court-dress-panier-1778WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  18th century French court.



BOTTOM LINE:  OK, I know that the inspiration of the perfume is the beauty of Marrekesh, but to me, it’s full on French court.  The perfume is elegant, big and a bit over the top at the beginning, but in all parts, it’s just perfect.  I would have to say that Secrets du Paradis Rouge is one of my favorite releases of the year!

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent Floral
  • Nose: Luca Maffei
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $175 for 50 ml parfum extrait

Sample provided by Jul et Mad.  Opinion my own.


Nin-Shar by Jul et Mad Paris

Nin-Shar Jul et MadWHAT I SMELL:  Nin-Shar opens warm and lightly boozy with a creamed rose.  It has a thick texture and a lovely milky radiance that when smelled warms the back of your throat.  The perfume is lightly sweetened, but it can’t be called a sweet perfume.  Instead, the rose, front and center, is wrapped around some beefy wood and an oud that blends masterfully with the rose rather than takes it over.  Nin-Shar develops slowly as you wear it, but the nuances are so wonderfully subtle as not to jar the wearer.   But what becomes a bit more predominant with the drydown is a cedar note that brings a marvelous natural note to the perfume.  But after an hour or so, that cedar blends towards the back of the perfume.  The perfume then adds a light layer of powder along with a very rounded juiciness to the mix providing for the perfect finishing touch to make this perfume the utmost in rose elegance.  Overall the projection is impressive and the longevity is superb.  Nin-Shar is a rose lover’s dream.

From the Jul et Mad website:

This very contrast is evoked in “Nin-Shar”. The purest and best quality absolute of Turkish Rose was employed here, revealing a rich, profound, strong, powerful multifaceted fragrance where soft, comforting, floral, powdery facets, intertwine with strong, green, balsamic, woody, earthy notes, a pure representation of the entire plant, from the soft, floral petals to the green leaves, stem and thorns, and all the way to the roots.

Top Notes: Bergamote, Liqueur de Rose, Essence de Davana
 Middle Notes: Absolu de Rose Turque, Jasmin d’Egypte, Fraction Patchouli
 Base Notes: Oud, Benjoin, Vanille Bourbon, Cèdre de Virginie, Santal, Absolu d’Encens

Cream Pink RoseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful pink and cream-colored rose.


WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NIN-SHAR: Colognoisseur, Chemist in the Bottle, Persefume

BOTTOM LINE:  One of the three perfumes in the Les White collection, Nin-Shar is my favorite.  But surprisingly enough, Nea, a fruity gourmand, which typically would not be something that I would normally gravitate to, comes a close second.   But all in the collection are wonderful in their own right.  I’m also not a big oud fan, but there is something about the rose-oud combination that is wonderful.  On their own, the two notes can over dominate any perfume, but here they work their magic in perfect harmony.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Sidnoie Lancesseur
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $190 for 50 ml parfum extrait


New Release: Aqua Sextius by Jul et Mad

Aqua SextiusWHAT I SMELL:  Aqua Sextius opens with a warm and rich bergamot and citrus which feels like it’s sprinkled with brown sugar.  It’s rather deep in its initial form which was a surprise to me as I was expecting something light and airy instead of this comfortable hug.  After a few minutes, a slight saltiness comes forward which at first seems a bit discordant with the other notes, but you quickly get used to it as it’s refreshingly different.  After a few more minutes, a minty herbal accord layers on top of the salt.  At this point, Aqua Sextius is a bit balmy, like a luxurious rendition of Ben Gay.  After around the 15 minute mark, the fragrance begins to radiate this wonderfully warm labdanum and amber highlighted with a kick of semi-sweet Guaiac wood.  After some more time, the fig becomes noticeable and it stays in this realm until after an hour when Aqua Sextius moves into an even-tempered, light woody and salty dry down.

From the Jul et Mad website:

A sensation of absolute well-being, celebrating the joy of life. This extraordinarily fresh perfume astonishes by its superb composition and by its longevity. Named after the original Latin name of Aix-en-Provence, known as “the city of 100 fountains”, this exclusive fragrance perfectly describes this most beautiful summer retreat, where the time flows in the rhythm of its legendary thermal sources…

Head : Bergamot, Lime, Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Green Notes
Heart : Mint/Eucalyptus, Marines Notes, Mimosa, White Flowers, Fig
Bottom : Labdanum, Ambergris, Cedarwood, Guaiac Wood, Oakmoss, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The earthen beauty surrounding the warm mineral springs.


WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA SEXTIUS: Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon, Chemist in a Bottle

The village fountain, Vaugines, France

BOTTOM LINE: Around 7 years ago, we travelled around France and rented a villa with friends for a week in the small village of Vaugines.  We had such a wonderful time exploring the countryside, including Aix-en-Provence which was only around an hour away from Vaugines.  Aqua Sextius perfectly captures the essence of that region of France and its magic and beauty.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Green Chypre – Citrus Amber
  • Nose:  Cecile Zarokian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $280 for 50ml or $110 for 20ml parfum extrait

Sample courtesy of Indigo Perfumery