EDP | The Scented Hound

August 4, 2014
by The Scented Hound 6 Comments

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

WHAT I SMELL: Jasmine White Moss opens with a zesty bergamot and tangy juicy mandarin with flecks of berry. Pure yumminess. The mandarin really stands out making it rather luscious and gourmand. It is so pretty and happy that I feel like Snoopy when he’s doing his happy dance. After a few minutes that zesty opening starts to break for a more serious, but equally pretty floral cacophony. The mandarin seems to retreat, then come full force again, as if it’s taking turns with the white florals like a Tilt o Whirl ride weaving in and out. After around 15 minutes, a slight soapiness makes an appearance taking the fragrance into a more traditional white floral territory. Thankfully those white florals don’t get out of hand by going over the top. Instead, a sweet patchouli joins in to make the florals lighter and more radiant only to then lead to White Moss Mist which adds a sheer dryness over the entire floral composition along with this everlasting brightened green.

From the Estee Lauder website:

Radiant greenness and white floral richness in a passionate yet elegant blend of modern and classic ingredients…the shared creation of both Aerin and Estée Lauder.

The fragrance, the third in Aerin Lauder’s Private Collection, is an intensely lush green floral chypre scent. An opulent white bouquet surrounded by delicate moss, rich woods and fifteen natural fragrance Absolutes.

Jasmin White Moss Notes:

Top Notes: Mandarin, Black Currant Bud Absolute, Galbanum Absolute, Bergamot Absolute, Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Ylang Ylang Absolute, Violet, Organge Flower Absolute, Orris, Patchoui Heart Absolute, Vetiver Absolute, White Moss Mist

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I am having a hard time moving past my first visualization of a dancing Snoopy, so I can resist using it. However, it should be noted that Jasmine White Moss is incredibly feminine, mature and beautiful…but it’s Snoopy and he must dance because Jasmine White Moss makes me happy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE JASMINE WHITE MOSS: rich, vibrant, sparkling (OK, so it’s from the website, but they did such a good job of providing three perfect adjectives!)

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JASMINE WHITE MOSS: I Smell Therefore I Am, The Scented Salamander, Perfume-Smellin Things

BOTTOM LINE: This is what I wish my mother would have been wearing when I was younger. I would have followed her around and have done anything that she told me to do. Jasmine White Moss is sophisticated without being stuffy and it radiates confidence and a positive energy. Loveliness all around!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Chypre Floral
Nose: Jean-Marc Chaillan
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $90 for 1 oz. EdP

July 28, 2014
by The Scented Hound 24 Comments

Hiram Green Moon Bloom

WHAT I SMELL: Moon Bloom opens with a lightly mentholated tuberose and heavenly sweet jasmine. And oh what a pretty opening it is! It’s lightly creamy and rather green as if the tuberose and jasmine are spilling over in streams of white surrounded by the lush greenery bouquet. Incredibly hypnotic, I can’t seem to stop sniffing my wrist as I never want this incredible white floral dream of an opening to end. After around 5 minutes a spice makes its way in as the mentholated aspect of the tuberose starts to disappear. There’s a hidden sweetness in the background like a light bubblegum which adds a small spark to this narcotic floral. As the fragrance continues to develop, it becomes spicier, yet cooler and more tropical as the ylang ylang becomes more prominent along with a hint of coconut giving the fragrance an exotic feel. Even with this dose of tropical, Moon Bloom never manages to go in the direction of a heavy state of pure tropics which it easily could have. Instead, the fragrance remains big, yet somehow restrained. In the end, Moon Bloom settles into a floral spiced gauze of a fragrance. You should note however that there is some powerful projection in play here, so a little goes a long way.

From the Hiram Green website:

Moon Bloom is a lush and elegant tuberose themed eau de parfum. Tuberose is a tropical night-blooming flower. Often referred to as ‘the mistress of the night’, tuberose is an admired theme in perfumery because of its soft and creamy but also powerful and narcotic aroma.

Moon Bloom includes generous amounts of tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute and ylang ylang. There are also notes of coconut, leafy greens and hints of tropical spices and resins.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Jean Harlow. Feminine, sexy and seductive from a bygone era.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MOON BLOOM: intoxicating, rapturous, narcotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MOON BLOOM: NotableScents, CaFleureBon, The Silver Fox

BOTTOM LINE: I have struggled with tuberose for years, but I think I have finally found “the one” that has allowed me to love this elusive (at least to me) white flower. Moon Bloom is incredible. And even more incredible is that this is perfumer Hiram Green’s debut fragrance and an all natural perfume as well. Even the bottle if simple excellence at its best. This is talent personified. Mr. Green will have a hard time topping this beauty which is now going on my must have list! But there’s no hurry on the next release, as I’ll be swimming in Moon Bloom for a good long time.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $165 for 50ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Indigo Perfumery.

July 27, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

A Hound CaFleureBon Post: Perfume Review: Guerlain L’Art et la Matière Cuir Beluga (2005) Olivier Polge + Solace in Central Park Draw

When many of us think of the House of Guerlain, most perfumistas immediately identify with the great vintage fragrances of historical classic perfumery such as Jicky (1889), Mitsouko (1919),L’Heure Bleu (1912) Shalimar (1925), Vol de Nuit (1933) to name a few. Cuir Beluga carries on the great tradition of Guerlain as part of the Guerlain L’Art et la Matière collection. And even though it’s the height of summer, Cuir Beluga has the ability to sweep you away to find some much need wintertime solace in the heart of New York City’s Central Park. For the full review and the incredible draw, click here.