citrus aromatic | The Scented Hound

November 20, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: Eau de Patou opens with this airy, fizzy, bubbling citrus, it’s so sparkling that its like dancing bubbles when you put your nose up to a glass of champagne. The bergamot and citrus combination is very much alive and joyous and full of bright energy which can’t help but make you smile. After a bit, the lively opening levels off and the citrus mellows as a floral melody highlighted by lavender brings the fragrance to more of a hazy hued of radiance. As, it dries down, a peppered and powdered finish adds just the right amount of mystery to make this perfume something very much out of the ordinary. For a fragrance without a huge amount of progression there is something incredibly rapturous about Eau de Patou, so much so, that I find it extremely sensual and sexy.

From the Jean Patou website:

EAU DE PATOU – A crisp and vibrant scent that epitomizes carefree days and relaxation, EAU DE PATOU has a lightness of touch and a subtle freshness unparalleled in the JEAN PATOU archive. Created originally in 1976 as a unisex fragrance EAU DE PATOU is a genuine expression of freedom and style that lasts throughout the day. A light tonic with fruity notes that sparkle with accords of bergamot, Sicilian Citrus, Guinea Orange and Sweet Lime mixed with Pepper Lavender and Orange Flower. This Eau de Toilette is light and fresh yet it is undeniably sophisticated and unmistakably JEAN PATOU.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A young Robert Redford; clean-cut, handsome and incredibly sexy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAU DE PATOU: classic, sophisticated, unassuming sexiness

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAU DE PATOU: Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: Eau de Patou was my one purchase at Sniffapalooza this past Fall. It was immediate love and all the other perfumes were tossed aside once I smelled this. I don’t believe that Eau de Patou is groundbreaking, nor revolutionary. Instead, it’s classical with a peppered twist that speaks directly to my inner self. Who doesn’t love a perfume that makes them feel sexy?

Jean Patou is re-releasing some of their classic fragrances from the past in their Collection Heritage. Eau de Patou (originally released in 1976), along with Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Chaldee (1927) were the first three to be released and others will be forthcoming. I love this concept as a vintage perfume lover and I can’t wait to be introduced to the others in the line! You can find more about their Collection Heritage on the Jean Patou website.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Thomas Fontaine
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 100ml Eau de Toilette

July 7, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

New Release: Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale

WHAT I SMELL: Oeillet Bengale opens with a sparkling bergamot, followed very quickly by pepper and rose. It’s spicy, herbaceous and incredibly medicinal. The turmeric is pronounced along with the clove. Oeillet Bengale is all about the spice as it seems to be geared more towards being a herb mixture meant to put on grilled vegetables than something you would wear. At the same time, it smells like Band Aids that have been treated with some kind of built in medicine. The fragrance does pulse off the skin as if the heat of your body helps to make it radiate. You would think with this herbal spice combination that the fragrance would seem heavy, but it doesn’t. After around 20 minutes, the fragrance deepens a bit and it seems to slip down further into the spice. But there’s some light at the end of the tunnel as the drydown begins to feel more floral as it evens out and becomes slightly powdered and dry and tinged with incense. In the end, Oeillet Bengale turns into this exquisite spiced floral that has me completely entranced. You wouldn’t have guessed that from what I wrote just a few sentences before right?

From the Aedes de Venustas website:

A Flower on Fire. A rose that wants to be a carnation, set ablaze by an exotic spice explosion. Red petals turned black by frankincense.

Top Notes: bergamot, white pepper

Middle Notes: rose, black pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, saffron, turmeric, clove

Base Notes: Tolu balsam, labdanum, ylang-ylang, benzoin, vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Lucrezia Borgia. The spices and herbs brought from the east were used by her perfumer to create this exotic, beautiful, yet dangerous mix of mystery.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE OEILLET BENGALE: fascinating, spicy, incomparable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OEILLET BENGALE: Grain de Musc, CaFleureBon, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE: The first time I wore this all I got was a Band Aid smell and I really didn’t care for it. In subsequent wearings, I start off not caring for it, but then it weaved this spell on me and I find myself bewitched by it. Oeillet Bengale is complex, of great quality and a seducer. I just reviewed another fragrance by Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Arquiste L’Etrog Acqua…this it the exact opposite of that on every level and what an incredible addition to his line of creations.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $240 for 100ml EdP

May 15, 2014
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Bergamote Boisee by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers

WHAT I SMELL: Bergamote Boisee opens with a refreshing citrus and cedar which is incredibly similar to the new Hermes Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche which I just reviewed, except that Bergamote Boisee seems likes its edged with a sugary element that makes it feel like its surrounded by shimmering diamonds that are tinged with sunshine. That may be the honey note that I’m experiencing; and if so, it’s like honey that has been hardened and sugared which keeps it lighter rather than what we typically envision honey as thick and syrupy. After around 10 minutes or so, the sugared element makes way for the patchouli which retains a slightly sweetened edge to the woody base. Every time I lift my wrist to smell Bergamote Boisee, I think to myself, “this makes me happy,” and I like that feeling. Bergamote Boisee doesn’t morph or change much, but it’s basically this wonderfully uplifting slightly floral woody scent that is easy and enjoyable to wear!

Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, White Flowers, Cistus, Cedar, Oakmoss, Musk, Honey, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: happiness and contentment

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BERGAMOTE BOISEE: effortless, likable, agreeable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BERGAMOTE BOISEE: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: This is the first sample that I pulled from the Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger’s Collection les Inédits and what a pleasant surprise. I grabbed this sample first as I thought that a fragrance highlighting bergamot would make for a nice summer fragrance. What I wasn’t expecting is that the opening would be so close to Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche. Where the Hermes left me with a slightly soured citrus that was pleasant enough, Bergamote Boisee left me with a sweeter and happier alternative that makes me want to skip down road with a smile on my face. Good job Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Jean-Claude Gigodot
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 for 100ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary