The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Patchoulissime by Keiko Mecheri

patchoulissime (1)WHAT I SMELL:  The opening of Patchoulissime is a flash of strong minty coolness, its sharp and fresh and a little biting and unfortunately it last only for a few seconds.  What starts of bright, quickly turns more earthy and warm.  There is no hippieish patchouli here, but instead a soft ambery and sandalwood patchouli that is tinged with rose.  In all it’s pleasant.  But you know what; it’s very hard to write about “pleasant.”

Patchoulissime Notes:  patchouli, benzoin, rose, jasmine, sandalwood and amber.

inga-skiss4WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A sweet unsophisticated maiden, let’s call her Inga.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PATCHOULISSIME: safe, easy, calm

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PATCHOULISSIME:  I Smell Therefore I Am, WAFT…What a Fragrancefanatic Thinks

BOTTOM LINE:  Patchoulissime is nice enough.  For a patchouli fragrance it’s surprisingly clean and fresh.  I could see this as a good summer scent, but overall it just seems a bit dull.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental  Woody
  • Classification: Feminine – but easily worn by a man
  • Expense: $115 for 75ml EdP


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Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire

MuscTonkin-ParfumdempireOK…I was sucked in.  The following factors make for a dangerous combination:

  1. Limited Edition
  2. Only 1000 bottles
  3. Parfum d’Empire / Marc Antoine Corticchiato

Since the perfumes of Parfum d’Empire are some of my favorites and since I have found that there really isn’t anything in the line that I don’t like, I thought that this would make for the perfect Christmas present for me.  As my better half is not a perfumista, I was going to put all the ordering information together for him so all he had to do is push a button.  A couple of Mondays ago I saw that Beautyhabit had Musc Tonkin on their website for sale; by Wednesday it was gone.  The same situation occurred at Lucky Scent…’SOLD OUT’.  I panicked and looked all over the web and the only place that I saw it for sale was on the Parfum d’Empire website.  I was not going to lose out, so I placed my order.

WHAT I SMELL:  In the bottle it smells very sweet and somewhat fruity.  When you first put it on the juice it’s thick, you can see the sheen on your skin.  It’s a bit camphoric and incredibly musky.  At first the musk is sweet…it’s strong but I rather like it.  In a bit, some tuberose or jasmine develops out of the musk. I have never been a fan of tuberose so I was a bit scared.  I can’t say that it’s earthy, but instead is more of a ripened floral.  I was expecting this to be warm, but while there is a bit of warmth, there is more a green note mixed with the musk.  It then turns more animalic and it feels a bit dirty and a bit sour.  As it develops it truly becomes stronger.  However, in the drydown, Musc Tonkin turns away from the beastly and instead becomes more of a beauty as it reveals itself as a floral scent.  In the very end (hours later), its a soft floral that has a bit of a metallic edge.

Since the notes were never published, the following is my guess (I can hear MAC laughing now):  tonka bean, jasmine, tuberose, musk, civet, bergamot, camphor or eucalyptus, vetiver, oak moss

I have heard some folks say there is a nice leather note in this.  Not to my nose.  I have also heard that this becomes powdery.  If there is any powder in there, it’s incredibly faint.

my-golden-grunge-flowerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A grungey flower

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MUSC TONKIN:   Miss Havisham-ish, pungent, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MUSC TONKIN:  Chemist in a Bottle, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  What I find that I love about the Parfum d’Empire fragrances is that there is an undercurrent of oak moss which creates this lush and luxurious base.  I believe it’s here but its very muted.  As such it doesn’t create that wonderful base like with the others.  Surprisingly, this is a very nice white floral scent once you get past the opening which is an interesting ride.  In fact, my hubby likes it (the drydown) and he does not like heavy fragrances.  Does Musc Tonkin make me feel hot and bothered?  No.  Unlike Kurkdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir which makes me want to take myself on a date, this is more removed.  It shouts a bit, but doesn’t beg you to come near.  I’m glad I bought a bottle, but I am going to have a hard time figuring out when and where I would wear this.  I do have sneaking feeling that this blind buy is going to grow on me more over time.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Musk
  • Nose: Marc Antoine Corticchiato
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 120 Euros for 50ml Parfum Extrait


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Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens

WHAT I SMELL:  A blast of menthol with a full bodied orange blossom and jasmine layered on top.  It’s medicinal, warm and rounded.  I am worried that this will be too much at this point, but as it starts to drydown it softens and becomes more bearable.  The tuberose is not moist and not dry.  To me it just feels substantial and beefy.  This is floral that begs not to be in that it’s not too sweet and it’s wants to be grounded rather than ethereal.  The menthol opening continues but grows softer and there is just a hint of the nutmeg and clove to give this a slight spice.  After a while, the musk helps to even out the tuberose which finally settles down and starts behaving itself.

Tubereuse Criminelle Notes:  jasmine, orange blossom, hyacinth, tuberose, nutmeg, clove, styrax (what in the world is styrax????), musk and vanilla

No, this isn’t my grandmother!

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Semi-tough and slightly old-fashioned in a way that it reminds me of my grandmother (my grandmother was not a shrinking violet but was a stern and serious German woman)!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE:  hearty, fearless, serious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE:  Memory of ScentMuse in Wooden ShoesScentsate

BOTTOM LINE: I have yet to find a tuberose fragrance that I really like, but I can see how others who love the note could find this appealing.  It’s not too loud, but its not a girly-girl fragrance by any means.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $140 for 50ml EdP