unisex | The Scented Hound

October 26, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Voyage by Hiram Green (Limited Edition)

WHAT I SMELL: Voyage opens with a Sweetart candied sweetness that very quickly moves to a soured and spiced citrus that has a undercut flattened note of what I can only describe as shoe leather that is met with a bit just a hint of rubber. I know that my description doesn’t sound so appealing, but the combination of those ingredients are rather interesting and exotic. After around 15 minutes, the flatness disappears to give rise to a spiced amber that seems to buzz with vibrant energy as well as helps to bolster the perfume’s projection. The perfume at this point is rather prickly and reminds me of a large sack of exotic spices in a large burlap sack located in a hidden gem of earthly delights in an Indian street market. As the perfume develops more, there’s a floral component (I am guessing because the notes don’t list any florals) that helps to smooth out the spice and which helps to give the perfume a more dream like quality. The real magic with Voyage for me is after about an hour into the wear when the florals, spices and vanilla begin to blend, taking off any sharp edges to create this creamy and wonderfully exotic perfume that’s perfectly fitted for the fall weather.

From the Hiram Green website:

An ode to the exotic mysteries of India, our new fragrance is as atmospheric and thrilling as a Mysore street market and as opulent as Octopussy’s floating palace on Lake Pichola.

Voyage is an intoxicating blend of fresh citrus top notes, a heart of warm amber and luscious suede over a smooth vanilla base.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Hiram has chosen the peacock as a visual representation of the perfume. He made the perfect choice.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VOYAGE: spicy, exotic, mysterious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VOYAGE: Kafkaesque, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Some perfumers have a very distinctive signature to their perfumes and once again with Voyage, this is easily identifiable as a Hiram Green perfume. I asked Hiram if there was a note that was central to all three of his perfumes (Moon Bloom, Shangri La and of course Voyage) and he said that there was not. Given that, all I can say is that on my skin there is a common thread…so I’ll just say that each perfume has a very distinct “Hiramism”….and that’s a good thing!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Unisex
Expense: 135 Euros for 50 ml eau de parfum from the Hiram Green website. Limited edition of 250 bottles. Pre-orders ship November 2, 2015 and come with a 5 ml atomizer of your choice of Moon Bloom, Shangri La or Voyage.

Sample courtesy of Hiram Green. Opinions and observations are my own.

October 19, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Ambre Cashmere Intense by Parfums de Nicolaï

WHAT I SMELL: Ambre Cashmere Intense opens with a warmed citrus and a lightly crackling spice. It’s juicy and more full-bodied than the typical light “summer” citrus opening. There’s also a real sweetness to the citrus, as if it’s topped with a light layer of brown sugar and as it begins to develop, a creaminess comes in to provide for a semi-thickened liquid gold consistency. Ambre Cashmere Intense is the sum of its parts rather than a series of notes like a mixed creme smoothie. Plus, there’s a gourmand sweetness the reminds me of sugared pecans sprinkled on vanilla ice cream. After a bit, a peppery note appears and helps to tone down the gourmand sweetness, but the buttery consistency remains intact. After some more time, the sandalwood appears bringing with it the somewhat sharpened hairspray edge. At this point, the perfume is very similar to one of my favorites, Guerlain Samsara. But as soon as I say that, the sandalwood begins to meld with the patchouli and amber which reduces any and all sharp edges making this one cashmere laden gourmand perfume perfect for the fall.

From the Parfums de Nicolaï website:

The start is made by a light pepper-mandarin vibration, quickly softened by a floral iris bouquet. The ‘amber’ chord of the fragrance is sublimate by vanilla absolute, escorted by Siam benzoin and styrax resinoid.

A rich and elegant creation from which the long trail, the tenacity and the sensuality can only be irresistible.

Top Notes: Black Pepper Essence, Essence of Mandarin, Lemon Essence

Hearth Notes: Orris butter, Violette, Clove Nail Essense

Background Notes: Absolute Vanilla, Labdanum absolute, Resinooid Benzoin, Tonka bean absolute, Essence of Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Sugared nuts with cream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRE CASHMERE INTENSE: sweetened, silky, smooth

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRE CASHMERE INTENSE: Kafkaesque, Chemist in the Bottle, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: The opening of Ambre Cashmere Intense was a bit too sweet for my taste, but once the perfume settles down from its initial sugared gourmand lusciousness, the real magic happens as the perfume wraps itself in a comforting creamy silky smooth sandalwood blanket of rich and lovely goodness.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Patricia de Nicola ï
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $65 for 30 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

October 12, 2015
by The Scented Hound 4 Comments

New Release: Comme des Garcons Floriental

WHAT I SMELL: Floriental opens cool to the skin, but warm to the nose with a comforting labdanum and a light and airy incense which is rounded and full-bodied without being heavy. Soon a subdued plum note enters along with an earthiness that keeps the fruit grounded, but the fragrance is pleasingly lightly gourmand at this stage. After a bit, a creamy sandalwood enters the mix along with a lightly sweetened tobacco. Floriental is a comfort perfume in that it’s light smoky radiance is like a transitional sweater taking you from the warm summer months to the cool of the fall. In the end, Floriental exists in a lightly boozy, incensed sandalwood haze.

From the Comme des Garcons Parfums website:

Floriental is a disrupted floral fragrance that challenges the traditions of perfumery to reimagine a flower that has no scent.
A creative collision that blurs the lines between the floral and the oriental to create something completely new.
An odourless flower is given life, a virtual scent imagined: enigmatic, contrasted, intense.

Labdanum, lavish sandalwood, vetiver, incense, pink pepper and plum liqueur.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A rain-soaked fall day when you enjoy a quiet walk through the colored leaves.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE FLORIENTAL: introspective, calming, quiet

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FLORIENTAL: Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE: Now that it’s getting cooler outside, I should be excited about switching gears toward wearing some fantastic cooler weather fragrances. However, I could easily live in a climate where it was summer all year-long and where I could just remain smelling of white flowers. Unfortunately that’s not the case…but a fragrance like Floriental is a welcomed gentle push into the cooler months making for an easy seasonal transition without effort.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Oriental
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $103 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary