Parfums de Nicolai | The Scented Hound

WHAT I SMELL: Ambre Cashmere Intense opens with a warmed citrus and a lightly crackling spice. It’s juicy and more full-bodied than the typical light “summer” citrus opening. There’s also a real sweetness to the citrus, as if it’s topped with a light layer of brown sugar and as it begins to develop, a creaminess comes in to provide for a semi-thickened liquid gold consistency. Ambre Cashmere Intense is the sum of its parts rather than a series of notes like a mixed creme smoothie. Plus, there’s a gourmand sweetness the reminds me of sugared pecans sprinkled on vanilla ice cream. After a bit, a peppery note appears and helps to tone down the gourmand sweetness, but the buttery consistency remains intact. After some more time, the sandalwood appears bringing with it the somewhat sharpened hairspray edge. At this point, the perfume is very similar to one of my favorites, Guerlain Samsara. But as soon as I say that, the sandalwood begins to meld with the patchouli and amber which reduces any and all sharp edges making this one cashmere laden gourmand perfume perfect for the fall.

From the Parfums de Nicolaï website:

The start is made by a light pepper-mandarin vibration, quickly softened by a floral iris bouquet. The ‘amber’ chord of the fragrance is sublimate by vanilla absolute, escorted by Siam benzoin and styrax resinoid.

A rich and elegant creation from which the long trail, the tenacity and the sensuality can only be irresistible.

Top Notes: Black Pepper Essence, Essence of Mandarin, Lemon Essence

Hearth Notes: Orris butter, Violette, Clove Nail Essense

Background Notes: Absolute Vanilla, Labdanum absolute, Resinooid Benzoin, Tonka bean absolute, Essence of Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Sugared nuts with cream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRE CASHMERE INTENSE: sweetened, silky, smooth

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRE CASHMERE INTENSE: Kafkaesque, Chemist in the Bottle, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: The opening of Ambre Cashmere Intense was a bit too sweet for my taste, but once the perfume settles down from its initial sugared gourmand lusciousness, the real magic happens as the perfume wraps itself in a comforting creamy silky smooth sandalwood blanket of rich and lovely goodness.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Patricia de Nicola ï
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $65 for 30 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

Fragrances have a tendency to take you back in time. Memories of your past can come rushing forward with just one whiff of a smell. New York by Parfums de Nicolai is one of those scents. This is a scent that takes me back to my younger days when I was just discovering my love of fragrance. I couldn’t afford the best, but always had a few bottles on my shelf. I don’t know which fragrance this reminds me of, but it reminds me of the early 1980s. Clean, fresh and masculine this scent opens with a rush of citrus. It doesn’t take long for that to move into a very gentle woody spice. But the citrus continues throughout as the dominant note. This is a fragrance for those men who like to feel comfortable in a scent. It won’t offend and will probably lend itself to comments of how wonderful you smell wearing it. Unfortunately it doesn’t have a “wow” factor. Overall a nice scent, just not an adventurous one.

From the Parfums de Nicolai website:

Top note : fresh, citrus, lemon, bergamot, aromatics note, lavender
Heart : spicy, woody, pepper, patchouli and cedarwood
Base : vanilla, leather and amber

Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody, Oriental, Citrus
Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
Expense: $115 for 100ml EDT