parfum | The Scented Hound

January 9, 2014
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

Grand Cuir by Parfums Retro

WHAT I SMELL: Grand Cuir opens with a citrus like orange blossom twist. It’s not what I was expecting as it’s not to heavy and there’s something rather salty, and tangy about the finish. I’m not quite sure what it is, but there is something here that reminds me of 1968 and going to the barber shop where the combination of sweat, oil and Brylcreem and dirt seemed to permeate the shop. Soon enough a slight soap makes an appearance along with this dryish birch and light petroleum note. After around 20 minutes or so, the florals come to surface and help to warm the fragrance, helping to even out the sharper tones of the opening. Then after a little more time, a bit of spice comes to play, but it peeks in an out rather than comes to the forefront. What I like about this fragrance is that Grand Cuir’s note are completely harmonic and therefore, none of the notes tends to dominate although you are always acutely aware that this is a leather fragrance. In the end, you’re left with a long-lasting fragrance that rides evenly and comfortably on your skin. There is something very nostalgic about Grand Cuir that I find appealing where it feels a bit forbidden, but at the same time by today’s standards comes off as rather innocent.

From Parfums Retro:

A fragrant composition in four parts:

A leather soul from start to finish
Spicy and herbaceous accents
A multi-dimentional floral heart
A comfortabel, relaxed base.

Grand Cuir Notes:

Cistus-labdanum, birch tar, clary sage, orange flower, lavender, carnation, rose, violet leaf, geranium, cinnamon leaf oil, tarragon, pine moss, sandalwood, rosewood, patchouli, musk, rosewood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I keep going back to the 1960s. It’s manly without being brutish and it’s comfortable without being sloppy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GRAND CUIR: nostalgic, easy, vintage

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GRAND CUIR: Kafkaesque, Scents Memory, Perfume Project NW

BOTTOM LINE: As many of you know, leather is not one of my favorite notes. Grand Cuir is about as close to changing my mind that I have found. The leather isn’t hard, but instead is just slightly naughty…in a nostalgic way. I have noted that a couple of bloggers have named Grand Cuir on their “best of 2013” lists, including Kafkaesque and Eyeliner on a Cat, so I recommend that if you like leather fragrances (and even if you don’t), that you check Grand Cuir out!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Leather
Nose: Hugh Spencer
Classification: Leans masculine
Expense: $155 for 100ml EdP

Disclosure: Product for review provided courtesy of Parfums Retro.

January 4, 2014
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

Happy New Year!

The view from the pool. What’s not to love?

Happy New Year to you all. It’s back to reality and that’s not someplace I really want to be. The Hound and husband just got back from a Christmas and New Year’s all-inclusive vacation in Mexico. We’ve never done anything like that and much to my pleasure and surprise it was a rousing success. What’s not to love when you spend your days by the pool being waited on by gracious and generous resort staff. It seems that all we did is eat, drink, swim, read and then repeat. Oh….let me add laugh. Easily the best part of the trip though was meeting some wonderful people from around the world and particularly several couples from NYC and London. I think the universe had some cosmic plan because it all just clicked without effort or strain and we now have some wonderful new friends. We could not have asked for a better way to start off the new year!

To add a perfumed twist to the mix of this first post of the new year; as it was a warm climate, I packed up some samples, decants, etc. that I thought might fit the weather and although perfume was not at the top of my list of priorities (please note that I probably didn’t shower until 5pm every day since I was in the water all day), I did wear perfume to dinner each night. I found myself a bit surprised by what I liked and didn’t like:

First by Van Cleef and Arpels: Loved it. Quiet and subtle, it’s such a lovely floral with just a hint of spice. Out of all of the items that I wore, I wore this the most. A really pleasant surprise.
Interlude Woman by Amouage: I really liked this, but no one else seemed to dig it as much as I did. I was a bit worried that anything Amouage would be too overwhelming for the warm weather, but it wasn’t. I’m going to give this more of a whirl.
Oud Velvet Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Meh. Enough said.
Iskander by Parfum d’Empire: I used to love this, but it’s leaving me a bit cold these days.
Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d’Empire: Iskander may leave me cold, but this one could never! Always a good fragrance to fall back on.
White Aoud by Montale: I have almost completely drained my decant and I will probably have to get more because I’m such a big fan, and it seemed to be a winner with others too.
Mefisto by Xerjoff: This seemed to last all but 20 minutes on me. That’s OK, I didn’t love it anyway.
No. 03 by Fragrance Republic: I brought it for myself, but the hub took possession of it which is fine because he loves it more than I do. It’s clean and fresh and perfect for the beach.

As I have not had to put out much effort on anything for the past couple of weeks, just writing this post has left me spent! So, until I get back to normal, all I can say is that I hope that this coming year will bring you much peace, love, prosperity and of course…perfume!

December 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 29 Comments

Nuit de Noel Parfum Extrait by Caron

Twas the night before Christmas and all through the house, not a creature was stirring except for the eBay mouse. The mouse saw that a good deal was found, he had to make a purchase especially one so sound. A few days later a package appeared and the mouse found that his purchase was not to be feared. The mouse was so happy with this new scent, that there was no doubt in his mind that his money was well spent.

WHAT I SMELL: Nuit de Noel opens with a surge of dry oak moss with hints of florals rising out of the from the mossy base. It doesn’t take long before a spicy presence makes itself known. But I hate to use the word “spicy” because I think you instantly think of something heavy and dominating. But it’s not the case here as it’s just this a layer of warmth, which is like putting on a fur-lined glove on a cold winters day. I wish I could say that I could distinguish the florals in the fragrance, but they are blended so wonderfully that nothing sticks out. After some time, the oak moss dissipates and you’re left with this wonderfully creamy floral haze of a fragrance. Nuit de Noel is pretty, feminine and from another era. I love it.

From the Caron website:

In 1922, after the trauma of the First World War, Europe is seized by a frenzy of celebration and exotic escapism. As a testament ot the crazy years, CARON launches NUIT DE NOEL.

NUIT DE NOEL, whose name along is evocative of a magical, fairytale evening, this day continues to spawn a series of iconic limited editions. Pure design theatrically inspired by the roaring twenties, an opaque black glass bottle, encircled with an “urchin” style gold band conjures up all the mystery of a bewitching Christmas Night.

Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are ylang-ylang, tincture of rose and jasmine; middle notes are sandalwood and oak moss; base notes are musk and amber.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I can’t say that Nuit de Noel reminds me of Christmas. I’m not sure what it reminds me of except that is feels classic and timeless. But now that I have this as part of my collection, I’m going to make it my new tradition for wearing during the holiday season and specifically on Christmas Eve from this year forward.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NUIT DE NOEL: proper, classic, beautiful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT DE NOEL: Perfume Shrine, Bois de Jasmin, The Fragrant Man

BOTTOM LINE: This is one of those successful blind buys so I can’t speak for the EdT version of the fragrance, but have heard mixed things about it. I could see where if this was thinned out, that it might not be the same deep and haunting floral as the parfum extrait is. I could easily see my mother wearing this as she was getting ready for a party circa 1965. To me, that makes this a warm fuzzy of a fragrance. I think the mouse did an excellent job of finding this rather perfect holiday fragrance!