Guerlain | The Scented Hound

February 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 23 Comments

Rose Nacree du Desert by Guerlain

I had forgotten all about this sample that I picked up in NY last fall until I was digging through my untested samples today. I thought this would be the perfect test for the depressing gray and blah Saturday weather.

WHAT I SMELL: Rose Nacree du Desert opens with an almost berried sweetened herbacious rose. It’s juicy and yummy and although somewhat candied in it sweetness it’s not what I would consider too sweet because it doesn’t scream. Soon enough, a smooth creaminess blends with patchouli and oud and the sweetened opening burns off. At this point, the fragrance becomes more linear, but with one little last twist of the introduction of a saffroned spice. If I can compare this to anything, I find that there is a similarity to Rose Oud by Kilian, but Rose Nacree is much more subtle and subdued. I love Rose Oud, but to me this is more elegant and translucent and a bit more to my liking.

From Fragrantica: A fragrance built on lush Persian rose, the legendary blossom of the east. Creamy yet dark, rose is given a mysterious air via saffron, patchouli and a hint of agarwood (oud), fanned on rich benzoin resin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: This is a midnight rose blossoming under the full moon with its lilting fragrant blossom enticing young couples into love and romance.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: dreamy, comforting, subtle

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: What Men Should Smell Like, Katie Chutzpah, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE: This is another exceptional perfume from Guerlain. I am tempted now to run to Saks Fifth Avenue to test out the other to fragrances in the Les Deserts d’Orient collection; Encens Mythique d’Orient and Songe d’Un Bois d’Eté. This is really lovely. In fact, I believe I need to put some more on now!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Theirry Wasser
Classification: Unisex
Expense: I can’t find this online, but I believe it’s between $250 – $300 for 75ml EdP

January 21, 2013
by The Scented Hound 18 Comments

Elixir Charnel Oriental Brulant by Guerlain

Maybe it’s the time of the year or maybe it’s because I have the winter blues; in any case, I seem to be reaching out for comfort scents. Thankfully, I had a large sample of Oriental Brulant to keep me company this past week.

WHAT I SMELL: Oriental Bulant opens with a warm and spicy balminess. The top note are listed as tangerine, but I got that for about one second as it turned balmy. There is a hint of soapiness (which I typically abhor), but here it’s very light and reminds me what my mother’s bathroom smelled like right after she took a bath. After a bit, the vanilla’d almond comes more to the front. This is not an overly sweet almond, but one that is rounded and warm. Oriental Brulant is pretty linear and sits close to the skin. It’s about as ethereal a fragrance that is to my liking as it’s a warmish vapor that rises so slightly above your skin.

Oriental Brulant Notes: top note is tangerine; middle note is almond; base notes are tonka bean, styrax and vanilla.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Maybe it’s the pink color of the juice, but I think of pretty cirrus clouds backed up to a lovely pink sky.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ORIENTAL BRULANT: wispy, pretty, peaceful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ORIENTAL BRULANT: Perfume Shrine, Olfactoria’s Travels, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE: For the time being, I am in love with this fragrance, but I think come the spring I could grow tired of its lovely balminess. This is a vanilla for non-vanilla lovers and leans feminine. I have to admit though that this is the perfect “bed-time” scent for me as it helps to create those pretty pink clouds in my head that the sheep can jump over.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $260 for 75ml EdP

December 7, 2012
by The Scented Hound 19 Comments

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

WHAT I SMELL: The first spritz is oh so boozy, but where’s the vanilla? There’s some spice and it’s almost herb like….oh wait, after a few minutes you can start to smell the vanilla along with a very weighted and buttery incense. I’m not a huge fan of incense, but this is different as it’s almost like a warmed blanket of smoked spice. As it develops there’s a point where this smells almost like hot buttered rum. After some time the booziness retreats and out comes some cedar and it becomes a bit more woody. Based on the name, one would expect that all you would get would be vanilla. You know it’s there, but combined with the other notes you never feel like you are drowning in vanilla. The smell is intoxicating and sensual and very grown up. Double Vanille develops over a long period of time and it’s a great ride. Finally, After many, many hours, you’re left with a comforting light honeyed vanilla.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille notes: Top notes are pink pepper, bergamot and incense; middle notes are ylang-ylang, cedar, bulgarian rose and jasmine; base notes are benzoin and vanilla.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Effortless confidence and sophistication.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE: warm, smooth, intoxicating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE: PereDePierre, Olfactoria’s Travels, That Smell

BOTTOM LINE: At first, SDV is weighted, bold and is a fragrance that will fill your lungs with a heavy and moist concentration. As time goes on, it mellows beautifully and for a vanilla fragrance it never gets very sweet. And it develops and develops and develops in a way that is seamless. I have the feeling that Spiritueuse Double Vanilla will be my signature scent this winter!

Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Classification: Marketed as a feminine fragrance, but I believe this suits both men and women
Expense: $250 for 75ml EdP