fragrance | The Scented Hound

November 17, 2016
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

Raw Secret by Phuong Dang Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL: Raw Secret opens with a wave of muted aldehydes which are quickly met with a light tea surrounded by a leveled and flattened mandarin. After a few minutes, the perfume begins to project with the tea at the center. The tea is warmed, rounded and thickened in a chewy and slightly rubbery consistency. The perfume is absolutely dreamy and it feels like a lullaby that is rocking you softly and gently leaving you in an envelopment of content. As the perfume continues to develop, the tea moves more towards a dried lily of the valley. It’s incredibly soft and green without being dewy. Here, the lily blooms alongside a bed of delicate white flowers which feel like a floating embrace above a woodied amber radiating base. The perfume then starts to dry and lightly powder…and the gleaming flowers are magnificent in a way that makes me want to wrap the entire perfume around me. In the end, Raw Secret grows in projection to become a beautifully powdered floral hug warmed by amber that’s oh so comforting.

From the Phuong Dang website:

“You reach out to touch me. Linger… I smile because I am happy. Feel so safe in your warm embrace… I just want to hold on, so tightly. Please get closer, to know me… I am only me. And yet with you, I am so much stronger.” —Phuong Dang

Raw Secret Notes –

Top: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Mandarin, Red Pepper, Tea Leaves, Ginger

Heart: Jasmine Absolute, Lily of the Valley, Imaginary White Flowers

Base: Amber, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: love

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RAW SECRET: incandescent, embracing, at peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RAW SECRET: None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE: Brand creator and namesake, Phuong Dang has launched a debut collection of ten perfumes, primarily created with perfumer Bertrand Duchafour. Raw Secret is the only perfume that steps outside the Duchafour collaboration and was created by perfumer Marina Jung Allegret… and it’s one of my favorite in the line. In all, the entire collection is comprised of extraits which are incredibly smooth, refined and easy to wear.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent Floral Citrus
Nose: Maria Jung Allegret
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $450 for 100 ml parfum extrait. Available exclusively at Barneys.

November 14, 2016
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur

WHAT I SMELL: Not surprisingly, Bucoliques de Provence opens with a soft cashmere iris which is soon met with a deep brown sugared and herbal lavender. It’s slightly medicinal, but very comforting; and in all it’s just so pretty and calming. Soon, a mix of herbs and spices pepper the lavender, making the perfume feel a bit chewy vs. the standard powdered dry lavender that we associate with the note. As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to flatten and it takes on a more woody consistency. At the same time, the spices really come forward…actually, in a quite caustic manner. What used to be calming, now has an unfortunate bite. After quite some time, the lavender turns to a laundry detergent familiarity and the perfume feels like it should be used as more of a bed or room spray. Supposedly there is some leather in here, but I’m not picking any of it up. Instead I am getting a dried flower kitchen witch vibe…and that’s not a good thing. After quite some time, the iris comes back in with a light powder and the kitchen witch begins to dissipate. The perfume becomes soft and kind of pretty…but unfortunately I’m left with a headache caused by the kitchen witch development

Kitchen Witch

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Bucoliques de Provence is a limited edition fragrance. It marks the beginning of a new collection inspired by different regions of France. This perfume pays homage to the history of Grasse. Perfumery in this region with its distinctive lavender fields, dates back to the 17th century and is linked to the historic production of leather. The perfumer has combined lavender and leather with iris and spices creating a soft, faceted scent. Bucoliques de Provence is modern in its pure and naturalistic approach.

Inspired by the savoir-faire of artisans in Grasse, an accord of leathery lavender, modernised by iris and spices.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A gray goose…kind of pretty, but not as pretty as a white swan, a little annoying and not as fun as a duck.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: wannabe, wafting, cleanser

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: The Scented Salamander, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: The perfume’s opening is divine until you get to the kitchen witch in the middle which makes you want to run. In the end, the perfume does calm down and becomes a quiet powdered iris, but that’s not enough of a save to make me want to come back.

Bone Rating: 2.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Leather?
Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $105 for 50 ml eau de parfum

November 10, 2016
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

The Random 10: Ari Weinberg of Arielle Shoshana

pic: Arlington Magazine

Running your own retail business requires long hours and hard work, not to mention a real dedication to providing the utmost in customer service. Many businesses struggle after opening, but I’m happy to say that the Washington DC’s one and only shop dedicated to niche perfumes is thriving and continuing to grow. In fact, Ari Weinberg and her store just celebrated their first anniversary! Of course, carrying lines like Neela Vermeire, Arquiste, Maison Francis Kurkdjian and many others is good enough reason enough for visiting the store, but it’s the personalized knowledge and service provided by Ari that keeps you coming back. In addition to celebrating this momentous one year celebration, it was revealed that there are some big things planned for the future which are truly exciting. I’ll keep any knowledge close at hand…but trust me, Ari’s “passion” for perfume will be front and center.

So what makes this proprietor such a force to be reckoned with in the perfumer world? Maybe her responses to the Random 10 will reveal a little about that inner spark!

The one skill I wish I could master is …better handwriting. Making chalkboard signs for the shop has made me acutely aware of just how awful my handwriting is.
If I could meet any living or deceased famous person in the world it would be…Mel Brooks. I deeply admire his gift for turning pain into comedy.
The fragrance that I can’t ever imagine living without is…L’Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant. And I never have to, because I’m hoarding nine bottles like a crazy person.
In 50 years the world…will have perfected cryogenic freezing. Friendly warning: I fully intend to freeze each and every loved one.
My idea of fun is…playing video games with my brother.
In 10 years, I see myself …frantically begging a cutting-edge researcher to cryogenically freeze my cat.
My best friend would say the following about me…“I had no idea a human being could eat that many Nerds.”
My fragrance preferences over time have…are even more deeply entrenched. A good 75% of my collection fall under the category Michael Edwards calls “soft orientals”.
The first job I ever held was…Subway, at age 17. You went home smelling like meat. The smells of my current job are quite an improvement!
You can never own enough…books.

Ari’s sense of fun is infectious and is another reason that Arielle Shoshana is shining bright. Happy Anniversary to Arielle Shoshana and thanks to Ari for participating in The Scented Hound’s Random 10.

And you don’t have to live within the Washington DC area to purchase some great perfumes from Arielle Shoshana, there’s also a fantastic website to make all your perfumed dreams come true. Check it out!