fragrance | The Scented Hound

December 19, 2012
by The Scented Hound 29 Comments

Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire

OK…I was sucked in. The following factors make for a dangerous combination:

Limited Edition
Only 1000 bottles
Parfum d’Empire / Marc Antoine Corticchiato

Since the perfumes of Parfum d’Empire are some of my favorites and since I have found that there really isn’t anything in the line that I don’t like, I thought that this would make for the perfect Christmas present for me. As my better half is not a perfumista, I was going to put all the ordering information together for him so all he had to do is push a button. A couple of Mondays ago I saw that Beautyhabit had Musc Tonkin on their website for sale; by Wednesday it was gone. The same situation occurred at Lucky Scent…’SOLD OUT’. I panicked and looked all over the web and the only place that I saw it for sale was on the Parfum d’Empire website. I was not going to lose out, so I placed my order.

WHAT I SMELL: In the bottle it smells very sweet and somewhat fruity. When you first put it on the juice it’s thick, you can see the sheen on your skin. It’s a bit camphoric and incredibly musky. At first the musk is sweet…it’s strong but I rather like it. In a bit, some tuberose or jasmine develops out of the musk. I have never been a fan of tuberose so I was a bit scared. I can’t say that it’s earthy, but instead is more of a ripened floral. I was expecting this to be warm, but while there is a bit of warmth, there is more a green note mixed with the musk. It then turns more animalic and it feels a bit dirty and a bit sour. As it develops it truly becomes stronger. However, in the drydown, Musc Tonkin turns away from the beastly and instead becomes more of a beauty as it reveals itself as a floral scent. In the very end (hours later), its a soft floral that has a bit of a metallic edge.

Since the notes were never published, the following is my guess (I can hear MAC laughing now): tonka bean, jasmine, tuberose, musk, civet, bergamot, camphor or eucalyptus, vetiver, oak moss

I have heard some folks say there is a nice leather note in this. Not to my nose. I have also heard that this becomes powdery. If there is any powder in there, it’s incredibly faint.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A grungey flower

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MUSC TONKIN: Miss Havisham-ish, pungent, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MUSC TONKIN: Chemist in a Bottle, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE: What I find that I love about the Parfum d’Empire fragrances is that there is an undercurrent of oak moss which creates this lush and luxurious base. I believe it’s here but its very muted. As such it doesn’t create that wonderful base like with the others. Surprisingly, this is a very nice white floral scent once you get past the opening which is an interesting ride. In fact, my hubby likes it (the drydown) and he does not like heavy fragrances. Does Musc Tonkin make me feel hot and bothered? No. Unlike Kurkdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir which makes me want to take myself on a date, this is more removed. It shouts a bit, but doesn’t beg you to come near. I’m glad I bought a bottle, but I am going to have a hard time figuring out when and where I would wear this. I do have sneaking feeling that this blind buy is going to grow on me more over time.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Musk
Nose: Marc Antoine Corticchiato
Classification: Unisex
Expense: 120 Euros for 50ml Parfum Extrait

December 16, 2012
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Ambre Premier by Jovoy Paris

WHAT I SMELL: On application, Ambre Premier goes on cool to the skin, almost like the feeling when you spray on antiseptic. What is first revealed is almost what I would describe as cocoa/chocolate edge mixed with the coolness of bergemot. It’s lightly warm and a little spicy. On Fragrantica, it says the top notes evoke that of “cotton candy”. Seriously, I am missing that completely (is there such thing as chocolate cotton candy??). As it continues in its development, it become a bit more floral with a subdued rose as the amber starts to take shape. In the end Ambre Premier is amber that is sweetened with a vanilla’d patchouli. It’s cool and warm at the same time with a bit of a tang that lies at its base.

Ambre Premier Notes:

Head: spicy fresh; Heart: pink floral; Background: dominant patchouli, amber, vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: At first, surprisingly a bit gourmand, like a bittersweet box of chocolate orange creams (you don’t really smell much of the cream, but it’s what chocolate covered creams smell like in the box). I feel like my nose is playing a trick on me so I go to my better half and tell him what I think this smells like and he disagreed. He said a box of chocolate covered orange creams smells really sweet and this does not… I reminded him that I said “bittersweet” as in dark chocolate. He still didn’t agree!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRE PREMIER: cooled-warmth, bittersweet, removed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRE PREMIER: I was not able to find any other reviews on this!!!

BOTTOM LINE: This is a different amber in that’s it’s not the typical, warm and embracing cuddly sweater that I love so much in the note. Instead, it’s a bit distant and a bit discordant in the way the notes blend together; I feel like they are fighting with each other. I don’t hate this, but I don’t like it either.

Bone Rating: 2.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Vanilla
Nose: Michelle Saramitot
Classification: Marketed as a feminine fragrance, but I believe this suits both men and women
Expense: $180 for 100ml EdP

December 12, 2012
by The Scented Hound 29 Comments

Hound Christmas Gift Ideas

Happy Holidays! I probably should have made this post earlier this month so that the shopping window wasn’t so tight, but most places are pretty quick about shipping these days so it shouldn’t be a problem. As I would recommend any of the fragrances that are listed as 5 Bones on this site, I’m going to mix it up a bit with some fragrant and not so fragrant offerings.

1. Penhaligon’s Mini Coffret Set. Penhaligon’s offers two sets, one for him and one for her. The packaging is exquisite and with five bottles in each box, this gift allows you to test out their wonderful collection of fragrances. Each set has 5 5ml bottles:

For her: Artemisia, Gardenia, Malabah, Lily of the Valley and Ellenisia

For him: Quercus, Blenheim Bouquet, Endymion, Sartorial and Opus 1870

You can get these via the Penhaligon website or other wonderful online shops like Penny Lane Perfumes. Cost: $50 per set.

2. George Sand Perfume by Nicolas de Barry. Earlier this year, I ranted and raved about not being able to find what I have to say is my favorite fragrance find this year, George Sand. But great news, It is now once again available, exclusively from Nicolas de Barry as part of his new atelier line along with his other historical perfumes. If you want an exclusive one of a kind perfume, you can’t do any better than this. I’m so glad this fragrance is back! Check out his new website where you can order online for 129 Euros.

3. Lafco Soaps. Lafco has the most wonderful collection of beautiful soaps in such fragrant offerings like, Lime Basil, Grapefruit Fig, and Tobacco Blossom. And each is wrapped in the most vibrantly colored classic packaging. You can buy the soap as single bars or in multiple gift sets. These soaps last a long time and smell like heaven. Check them out at the Lafco website. Prices vary per soap.

4. Shiseido Men Total Revitalizer. For the man in your life, this cream is a lifesaver. Just a few dabs in the morning and evening help to keep your skin moisturized and wrinkle free. The great thing about this cream is that it’s not greasy and you can see the benefits immediately as your skin looks instantly refreshed. I never go a day without using this no matter the time of year! You can find this online or at your favorite department store for around $50 to $60.

5. Guerlain Terracotta Men’s Bronzing Powder. I admit it. In the winter I get extremely pale and need a little color on my skin. Guerlain’s men’s bronzing powder is the perfect solution to just give a dash of color to that winter pallor. Getting your man to try this might be difficult, but once they do, they’ll never turn back. You can find this online for around $50.

6. Jonathan Adler. Probably the most prolific designer of everything of housewares, furniture and decorative items, you can’t go wrong with any of his whimsical designs. My favorite is his “Dolls” container. He has made Neely O’Hara proud. Check out all of his offerings on his website.

7. Archie McPhee. The perfect place to get cheap, unusual and fun stocking stuffers is Archie McPhee. For under $10 you can buy some crazy items. My favorite item this year is the tin of Abraham Lincoln band aids. Check out all of the silliness on their website.