fragrance | The Scented Hound

November 24, 2014
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

A Bergdorf Goodman Exclusive from Roja Parfums: Bergdorf

Since 1901, Bergdorf Goodman has been providing the utmost in quality, service and luxury to New York City on the corner of 5th Avenue and 58th Street. To celebrate this New York landmark, Master Perfumer Roja Dove was asked to create two exclusive perfumes that embody this legendary institution. Back in September, I reviewed Goodman’s, Roja Dove’s creation named for the Bergdorf Goodman men’s store. And now, Roja Dove has launched Goodman’s female counterpart, Bergdorf. Together, they were both created to personify Bergdorf Goodman, the pinnacle of style, service and inspiration for over a century.

WHAT I SMELL: Bergdorf’s opening is comprised of airy florals which dance around a bright bergamot. The florals are lightly sugared and candied making the opening so incredibly bright and cheerful that it feels like you’re running through a summer field of delicate wild flowers in a warm and sunny afternoon. The florals are hard to distinguish as they’re flawlessly blended, but the violet pops out as a cheery leader of the bunch. The fragrance is grounded by a hazy base of sandalwood which warms the fragrance as it moves from the shiny and carefree opening, to more of a refined, graceful and full-bodied floral that is wrapped around the edges with pink pepper. After around 15 minutes, Bergdorf turns into a ball gown. The fragrance dances, moves and twirls under a shimmering light. It’s pretty, lush and full of gaiety. As more time passes, the fragrance quiets as if the dancing slows and the party retreats to quieter and contained refinement. The florals then become deeper and they’re met with this lush and comforting warmth that is very secure in its majestic self. As beauty is not always what it seems, there is just a bit of dirty (I think it’s the castoreum) that brings a bit of realness to the florals as if to say, “all that glitters is not gold.” My favorite part of the fragrance arrives after around an hour when Bergdorf’s becomes smooth as golden silk covering the windows to the garden outside, which at this point, the now lightly creamy florals are hauntingly and beautifully restrained.

Bergdorf Notes:

Top – Bergamot

Heart – May Flower, Orange Blossom, Heliotrope, Rose, Jasmine, Gardenia, Tuberose, Violet, Pink Pepper

Base – Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Storax, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Benzoin, Musk, Frankincense, Castoreum

“Bergdorf Goodman, in my mind, has always embodied the refinement, glamour, and polish that is the very best of Manhattan.

With Bergdorf, I wanted to create an incredibly feminine scent that was unapologetically refined, elegant and sensual. A rich bouquet, with notes of Gardenia and May Flower, nestling on a base of Oakmoss and Vanilla”.

Roja Dove, Master Perfumer

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The life of Marie Antoinette, starting with her carefree youth as an Archduchess of Austria through her infamous and larger than life reign as Queen of France. It’s charming innocence in the beginning and grand, refined and strikingly beautiful throughout the end even when her world became oh so real.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BERGDORF: refined, graceful, stately

BOTTOM LINE: The problem with reviewing a Roja Parfum creation is that the development is so seamless and pulling apart notes is next to impossible. But what a great problem to have. It’s just testament to the talent of Roja Dove. I have to admit that at first, I was going to give Bergdorf’s a rating of 4 bones, but each time I wear this, my love grows stronger. So in the end, I have to up the ante. Bergdorf is a legendary perfume for a legendary store.

For those of you lucky to in be in NYC on Thursday December 4th, Roja Dove will be appearing at Bergdorf Goodman’s from 5 to 6pm. This is your opportunity to have Roja Dove himself, sign your exclusive bottles of Bergdorf and Goodman’s!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Roja Dove
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $545 for 50ml parfum, exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman via Roja Parfums’ Bergdorf Goodman Representative, Tom Crutchfield, 212-872-2768.

Sample courtesy of Bergdorf Goodman.

November 20, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: Eau de Patou opens with this airy, fizzy, bubbling citrus, it’s so sparkling that its like dancing bubbles when you put your nose up to a glass of champagne. The bergamot and citrus combination is very much alive and joyous and full of bright energy which can’t help but make you smile. After a bit, the lively opening levels off and the citrus mellows as a floral melody highlighted by lavender brings the fragrance to more of a hazy hued of radiance. As, it dries down, a peppered and powdered finish adds just the right amount of mystery to make this perfume something very much out of the ordinary. For a fragrance without a huge amount of progression there is something incredibly rapturous about Eau de Patou, so much so, that I find it extremely sensual and sexy.

From the Jean Patou website:

EAU DE PATOU – A crisp and vibrant scent that epitomizes carefree days and relaxation, EAU DE PATOU has a lightness of touch and a subtle freshness unparalleled in the JEAN PATOU archive. Created originally in 1976 as a unisex fragrance EAU DE PATOU is a genuine expression of freedom and style that lasts throughout the day. A light tonic with fruity notes that sparkle with accords of bergamot, Sicilian Citrus, Guinea Orange and Sweet Lime mixed with Pepper Lavender and Orange Flower. This Eau de Toilette is light and fresh yet it is undeniably sophisticated and unmistakably JEAN PATOU.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A young Robert Redford; clean-cut, handsome and incredibly sexy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAU DE PATOU: classic, sophisticated, unassuming sexiness

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAU DE PATOU: Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: Eau de Patou was my one purchase at Sniffapalooza this past Fall. It was immediate love and all the other perfumes were tossed aside once I smelled this. I don’t believe that Eau de Patou is groundbreaking, nor revolutionary. Instead, it’s classical with a peppered twist that speaks directly to my inner self. Who doesn’t love a perfume that makes them feel sexy?

Jean Patou is re-releasing some of their classic fragrances from the past in their Collection Heritage. Eau de Patou (originally released in 1976), along with Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Chaldee (1927) were the first three to be released and others will be forthcoming. I love this concept as a vintage perfume lover and I can’t wait to be introduced to the others in the line! You can find more about their Collection Heritage on the Jean Patou website.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Thomas Fontaine
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 100ml Eau de Toilette

November 17, 2014
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

New Release: Copal Azur by Aedes de Venustas

WHAT I SMELL: Copal Azur’s opening is wonderfully spicy, yet sparkling, like sunshine evaporating the moistness of the early day. A salty note is mixed with a fresh pine, but the pine is not a cool weather northwest pine, but a warmer pine that feels like it’s grounded to the windswept Caribbean shore. There’s a distinct patchouli note which is woody and light and after around 15 minutes, a creamy sweetness enters all the while an incense radiates from above. Around the 30 minute mark, the fragrance lightens to a radiant incense with the pine, patchouli and tonka breezily anchoring the shore below. Overall, there is a brightness about Copal Azur that’s extremely appealing. In addition, the perfume is full of positive energy and inner warmth. Copal Azur is a magical Mayan beauty.

From the Aedes de Venutustas website:

Mayan incense, rising from age-old temples. Lashes of sea spray and whiffs of the jungle where the jaguar lurks… Copal Azur exhales the lush, spiritual vibes of sacred Tulum.

The Muse: Copal, the Mayan incense

The vibrant hues of the Mayan Riviera filter through milky, pine-scented wreaths of burning resin. Blue, for the Caribbean Sea and the limpid depth of the cenotes, the subterranean fresh-water pools that riddle Yucatan: a cool breeze of ozonic and salty notes. Green, for the lush Mexican jungles: a flash of cardamom glinting in the moist, woody undergrowth of patchouli and myrrh. White, for the purest quality of copal and the pristine beaches of Tulum: a lick of almond-scented tonka bean smoothed into creamy notes. Amber for the Jaguar God of Terrestrial Fire – the fire that burns the sacred copal… Hypnotic, spiritual and forceful, Copal Azur might well indeed open the “Gate to Heaven”.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The magic of Tulum, Mexico.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE COPAL AZUR: positive, sun-touched, energized

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COPAL AZUR: Chemist in the Bottle, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: I guess it’s fitting after just returning from the Yucatan on vacation to complete a review on a fragrance that was inspired by a Mayan incense. What I love about this fragrance is that as an incense perfume, the incense is subtle, like it’s lightly whipping over the cliffs of Tulum (in other words, an incense perfume for those who typically aren’t incense perfume lovers). Copal Azur is a lovely addition to the Aedes de Venutas collection of perfumes which are each unique and wonderful in very different ways. I can’t wait to see what their next release will be!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Noses: Bertrand Duchaufour
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 100ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Beauty Entreprise.