Feminine | The Scented Hound

June 15, 2016
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne

WHAT I SMELL: Sud Magnolia initially reveals a bitter orange and soured citrus accord that’s ripe, juicy and fresh as well as a berried note that is green from the stem. Quickly, the perfume becomes warmer, like the citrus opening has been warmed in the sun. Still juicy, the perfume moves towards the more floral with a soft magnolia making its presence known. There’s a cottony freshness about the perfume which reminds me of sun laden sheets on a clothesline. The freshness of the sun, combined with the warm breezes fill the sheets with a warmed comfort. As the perfume develops, the magnolia blooms, but very subtly. This magnolia is a real lady, strolling through the hot sun under a parasol shielding herself from the blinding heat and light. Slow to continue her journey, Sud Magnolia begins to become a tad sweeter and once again feels touched with a dewy freshness. Eventually, a very subdued woody musk eases in to complete this stroll under the Magnolia tree.

Top notes : bitter orange from Seville, pomelo from Florida, blackcurrant from Burgundy

Heart notes : magnolia from Louisiana, Bulgarian rose absolue, saffron flower from India

Base notes : atlas cedarwood from Morocco, sandalwood from New Caledonia, musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A stroll through the streets of New Orleans with the springtime Japanese Magnolias in full bloom.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUD MAGNOLIA: comforting, fresh, genteel

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUD MAGNOLIA: Mostly Sunny, Chemist in the Bottle, Scent of Abricots

BOTTOM LINE: Sud Magnolia is a nice interpretation of magnolia that is fresh and soft. My only regret is that it dissipates quickly on my skin to a rather innocuous musk.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Jerome Epinette
Classification: Leans Feminine
Expense: $125 for 3.3 oz. Cologne Absolue

June 6, 2016
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

Shalini Parfum by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL: Shalini opens beautifully with an initial rush of neroli that’s lush, juicy and lightly sun sweetened. A lovely tiare buzzes above a lightly sharpened hair spray note of sandalwood and there’s a slight soapiness that encompasses the somewhat large, but rather tame florals. The perfume lives in this slightly soapy, lightly warm cocoon for some time. After around 20 minutes, the perfume seems to warm considerably, as if the heat of skin is a catalyst to start a chemical reaction. The tuberose then starts to make its entrance, but in a very soft and deliberate manner as if it’s in no rush. The tuberose is restrained with all its pungent attributes removed and what you’re left with is the soft and comforting light waxiness from the flower. At the same time, Shalini starts to turn towards the green as the floral stems add just the right amount of color to make the perfume feel as if it’s a bouquet rather than just a collection of flowers. As the perfume slowly progresses, the neroli comes forward once again with a light dew to rest on the green. Here the perfume resides, so restrained, so beautiful and so refined. Shalini is a lady in every sense of the word.

From Shalini Parfums:

A bouquet of white flowers – tuberose, neroli and tiare – this precious fragrances evokes an intoxicating sensuality. The rare and pure scent of neroli blooms above the heart of tuberose and tiare while the depth and mystery of sandalwood and musk permeate the senses.

Saks 5th Avenue, Los Angeles- 1940

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beautiful, classic Hollywood interiors. Architectural masterpieces designed for creating dramatic settings. The scene: Sak’s 5th Avenue, Los Angeles, 1940… in comes a beautifully dressed, regal and gracious lady and all eyes are transfixed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SHALINI: warm, approachable, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALINI: CaFleureBon, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE: Shalini is an ethereal beauty that glides into a room. The perfume doesn’t develop as much as it transcends. Shalini is like a dream.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Maurice Roucel
Classification: Feminine. Confession: As feminine as this is, it’s a beauty that I would have no problem wearing myself.
Expense: $3,000 for the limited edition Lalique flacon pictured above. $250 for 10 ml version. Parfum extrait.

May 18, 2016
by The Scented Hound 18 Comments

New Release: Mugler Angel Muse

WHAT I SMELL: Angel Muse goes on the skin all sweet, nutty and über creamy; it lies on your skin as if was applied like butter to toast. The perfume is sweet, but not sugary; instead it’s more gourmand. As the perfume develops, that creamy nutty buttery concoction moves to the less creamy, but the projection begins to grow and with it the patchouli comes front and center with a pulsating rhythm of brown sugar and vetiver which helps to keep the perfume from going full on sweet. As it continues to develop, a tonka and vanilla note comes forward which helps to give the perfume some needed depth. In the end, the perfume resides in a warmed cocoon of semi sweet-comfort and ultimately after many hours, Angel Muse ends up feeling like a comfy musky vanilla pillow. But best of all Angel Muse is a bright and happy scent and that’s sure to make you smile.

From the Mugler website:

Tantalizing. Delicious. Supremely feminine. Discover ANGEL Muse, the new addictive fragrance you will #HateToLove…. Cosmic explosions collide with magnetic attraction to create an irresistible Eau de Parfum never experienced before. Get ready to lose your mind! Fragrance notes: Grapefruit, Pink Peppercorn, Hazelnut Cream, Vetiver, Patchouli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Full House, early ’90s.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ANGEL MUSE: big, noticeable, energized

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ANGEL MUSE: Musings of a Muse, My Life Along the Lishops, Complexions Beauty Blog

BOTTOM LINE: There’s something very nostalgic and comforting about Angel Muse. Like a throwback in time, the perfume is big and bold and fits like a well-worn sweatshirt or sweater.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Vanilla
Nose: Quentin Bisch
Classification: Leans feminine and young
Expense: $70 for 1 oz. Eau de Parfum