The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne

Atelier-Cologne-Sud-Magnolia-901x1200WHAT I SMELL: Sud Magnolia initially reveals a bitter orange and soured citrus accord that’s ripe, juicy and fresh as well as a berried note that is green from the stem.  Quickly, the perfume becomes warmer, like the citrus opening has been warmed in the sun.  Still juicy, the perfume moves towards the more floral with a soft magnolia making its presence known.  There’s a cottony freshness about the perfume which reminds me of sun laden sheets on a clothesline.  The freshness of the sun, combined with the warm breezes fill the sheets with a warmed comfort.  As the perfume develops, the magnolia blooms, but very subtly.  This magnolia is a real lady, strolling through the hot sun under a parasol shielding herself from the blinding heat and light.  Slow to continue her journey, Sud Magnolia begins to become a tad sweeter and once again feels touched with a dewy freshness.  Eventually, a very subdued woody musk eases in to complete this stroll under the Magnolia tree.

Top notes : bitter orange from Seville, pomelo from Florida, blackcurrant from Burgundy

Heart notes : magnolia from Louisiana, Bulgarian rose absolue, saffron flower from India

Base notes : atlas cedarwood from Morocco, sandalwood from New Caledonia, musk

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WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A stroll through the streets of New Orleans with the springtime Japanese Magnolias in full bloom.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUD MAGNOLIA:  comforting, fresh, genteel

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUD MAGNOLIA:  Mostly Sunny, Chemist in the Bottle, Scent of Abricots

BOTTOM LINE:  Sud Magnolia is a nice interpretation of magnolia that is fresh and soft.  My only regret is that it dissipates quickly on my skin to a rather innocuous musk.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Jerome Epinette
  • Classification: Leans Feminine
  • Expense: $125 for 3.3 oz. Cologne Absolue


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Rose Anonyme and Vetiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne

WHAT I SMELL:  Rose Anonyme opens with a dark, deep, rich and lush rose.  It’s achingly beautiful, full-bodied and juicy; almost like wine.  Soon that stage is followed by a mild suede leather that bounces between the multi layered rose scent that smells more like a bouquet than just a singular rose.  And it’s not an ordinary rose, it’s one that’s almost gourmand.  This phase is simply lovely and is different in its hefty beefiness.  As such, I would say that this borders on being a powerhouse rose.  As it settles, what you are left with is a sweet rose layered under a snuggly oudy suede with a bit of musk.

Rose Anonyme Notes:  calabrian bergamot, ginger, turkish rose, somalian opoponax, agarwood (oud), indonesian patchouli leaf, papyrus and benzoin

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: For some reason, I envision a red velvet cake topped with a rose!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE ANONYME: luscious, hearty, full-bodied

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $75 for 30ml Cologne Absolue

WHAT I SMELL:  Vetiver Fatal opens as I expect a vetiver scent to open:  clean and green.  However, in a little time what you also get is a bit of warm musk that turns this fragrance into a deeper and richer, buttery scent with hints of spice.  I’m not a fan of vetivers, but this I can enjoy.

Vetiver Fatal Notes:  calabrian bergamot, sicilian lemon, bitter orange, tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, haitian vetiver, cedar and agarwood (oud)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Honeyed candied biscuits.

 

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VETIVER FATAL: warm, comforting, classy

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $75 for 30ml Cologne Absolue

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE ANONYME AND VETIVER FATAL: Chemist in a Bottle, Bois de Jasmin, Il Mondo di Odore

BOTTOM LINE: These are both wonderful fragrances.  If I were to lean to one, it would be Rose Anonyme, but am worried that I might get a little tired of the sweetness.  However, I could see myself also wearing Vetiver Fatal; this coming from a person who usually cares little about vetiver scents.


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Grand Neroli by Atelier Cologne

This has been a summer of citrus.  Perfect for the hot days of summer because of its freshness, I have found a couple of loves in Parfum d’Empire’s Iskander and Azemour les Orangers.   Not all of my citrus encounters have been the same however; Tauer Perfume’s Orange Star bucked that love primarily because the citrus in Orange Star is artificial and not fresh.  The same can’t be said about Grand Neroli.  I’m not sure if it’s love, but it’s a definite like.

WHAT I SMELL:  Pure unadulterated sweet juicy orange.  Nothing artificial, just the juice of a sun-ripened orange.  Lovely.  As time goes on, the orange remains without the sweetness and in comes a bit of green and musk.  Non-complicated in it’s composition, it’s simpler and less sophisticated than Iskander and Azemour les Orangers, but remains a close cousin… maybe their country cousin?  Grand Neroli doesn’t seem to have great longevity, but I’m working off a small sample that I dabbed on and that might make a difference.

Grand Neroli Notes:  Moroccan neroli, lemon, Sicilian bergamot, petitgrain, Persian galbanum, moss, birch leaves, clean musk, white amber, vanilla from Madagascar

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sunshine and casual Saturday mornings.  What I imagine Florida to smell like when you’re in the middle of a blossoming orange grove.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GRAND NEROLI:  sweet, fresh, sunny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GRAND NEROLI: Scentsate, Olfactoria’s Travels, Now Smell This

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre
  • Nose: Cecile Krakower
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $60 for 30ml Cologne Absolue