EDP | The Scented Hound

December 7, 2012
by The Scented Hound 19 Comments

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

WHAT I SMELL: The first spritz is oh so boozy, but where’s the vanilla? There’s some spice and it’s almost herb like….oh wait, after a few minutes you can start to smell the vanilla along with a very weighted and buttery incense. I’m not a huge fan of incense, but this is different as it’s almost like a warmed blanket of smoked spice. As it develops there’s a point where this smells almost like hot buttered rum. After some time the booziness retreats and out comes some cedar and it becomes a bit more woody. Based on the name, one would expect that all you would get would be vanilla. You know it’s there, but combined with the other notes you never feel like you are drowning in vanilla. The smell is intoxicating and sensual and very grown up. Double Vanille develops over a long period of time and it’s a great ride. Finally, After many, many hours, you’re left with a comforting light honeyed vanilla.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille notes: Top notes are pink pepper, bergamot and incense; middle notes are ylang-ylang, cedar, bulgarian rose and jasmine; base notes are benzoin and vanilla.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Effortless confidence and sophistication.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE: warm, smooth, intoxicating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE: PereDePierre, Olfactoria’s Travels, That Smell

BOTTOM LINE: At first, SDV is weighted, bold and is a fragrance that will fill your lungs with a heavy and moist concentration. As time goes on, it mellows beautifully and for a vanilla fragrance it never gets very sweet. And it develops and develops and develops in a way that is seamless. I have the feeling that Spiritueuse Double Vanilla will be my signature scent this winter!

Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Classification: Marketed as a feminine fragrance, but I believe this suits both men and women
Expense: $250 for 75ml EdP

November 17, 2012
by The Scented Hound 29 Comments

Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens

WHAT I SMELL: A blast of menthol with a full bodied orange blossom and jasmine layered on top. It’s medicinal, warm and rounded. I am worried that this will be too much at this point, but as it starts to drydown it softens and becomes more bearable. The tuberose is not moist and not dry. To me it just feels substantial and beefy. This is floral that begs not to be in that it’s not too sweet and it’s wants to be grounded rather than ethereal. The menthol opening continues but grows softer and there is just a hint of the nutmeg and clove to give this a slight spice. After a while, the musk helps to even out the tuberose which finally settles down and starts behaving itself.

Tubereuse Criminelle Notes: jasmine, orange blossom, hyacinth, tuberose, nutmeg, clove, styrax (what in the world is styrax????), musk and vanilla

No, this isn’t my grandmother!

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Semi-tough and slightly old-fashioned in a way that it reminds me of my grandmother (my grandmother was not a shrinking violet but was a stern and serious German woman)!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE: hearty, fearless, serious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE: Memory of Scent, Muse in Wooden Shoes, Scentsate

BOTTOM LINE: I have yet to find a tuberose fragrance that I really like, but I can see how others who love the note could find this appealing. It’s not too loud, but its not a girly-girl fragrance by any means.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $140 for 50ml EdP

November 12, 2012
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

Gaiac by M. Micallef

WHAT I SMELL: Goes on herbal and astringent to the skin. It smells of bergamot and light jasmine and an almost brown sugar sweetness that’s slightly spiced by the clove. Gaiac to me is a very different fragrance and I’m sure that I am smelling the gaiac wood, but I’m not familiar with what that smells like so I can’t say for sure, although as it starts to dry down a bit of sourness comes forth, almost oud like in its composition. Gaiac is a vetiver fragrance in its best form in that it’s not green, but more woody in its dryness. After a good 45 minutes Gaiac completes its transformation and what you’re left with a sweet honeyed vanilla that is incredibly pleasant.

Gaiac Notes: bergamot, jasmine, cloves, gaiac, vetiver, vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A medieval forest tinged with sunlight.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GAIAC: ancient, otherworldly, sweetened

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GAIAC: I Smell Therefore I Am, Confessions of a Perfume Nerd, Nathan Branch

BOTTOM LINE: This was a very pleasant surprise. I could see this as a future full bottle purchase. And if you’re not a big fan of vetivers like myself, this restores my faith in the vetiver note.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody
Nose: Martine Micallef
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $90 for 30ml EdP