4 bones | The Scented Hound

March 29, 2014
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

TRIOMPHE by RANCE

WHAT I SMELL: Triomphe opens with a spicy bergamot and a little pepper; it’s warm and inviting and well blended. After a few minutes the rose makes it presence, but it’s really muted by the warmth of the base which is rather smooth and creamy. As time progresses, the fragrance projects the patchouli woodiness and seems to sink deeper in a warmish pool. The fragrance begins to dry out, but it’s so full-bodied with the florals that help to give this so much shape. After around 30 minutes the fragrance really dries out and that rounded floral makes way for the balsam and the patchouli takes the center stage. In the end, you’re left with a lovely slightly smoky, nutty and peppery woody scent.

From the Rance 1795 website:

Only the word Triumph could describe Napoleon’s immense glory. And Triomphe was the name of one of the perfumes François Rancé dedicated to the idol of his life.

Napoleon loved the fragrances of his native island, and François Rancé drew inspiration from these: the light perfume of citrus fruit merges with the fragrance of roses and orange blossom, adorned with Grasse jasmine and Florentine iris. Cedar wood and musk, with hints of vanilla, give the fragrance intensity.

A decoration which represents the military virtues of the Victor was etched onto the glass by a Parisian master glassmaker. It is today as it was 200 years ago.

The precious perfume is made entirely of the rarest and most highly-prized natural essences, obtained from the best years, i.e. “millésimé“(vintage) mixed, stirred and left to age according to Rancé tradition.

Head Notes: bergamot, neroli, mandarin

Heart Notes: Bulgarian Rose, magnolia, wisteria, nutmeg

Base Notes: patchouli, cistus labdanum, tolu balsam, Reunion vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The sophisticated hound

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TRIOMPHE: classic, classy, gentlemanly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TRIOMPHE: None to be found. How is this possible given how fantastic this is?!

BOTTOM LINE: Rance has been operating in perfumery since the 18th Century and I can see why. If this is any indication of their products, I need to do some more exploring. And how pretty is that bottle?!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $110 for 50ml EdP

March 11, 2014
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

VINTAGE REVIEW: PARURE by GUERLAIN

WHAT I SMELL: Parure starts off deep and when first sniffed it hits the back of your throat with an initial blast of heavy plum with a layer of bergamot on top. It’s somewhat medicinal and rather antiseptic, like what you expect a cleaning product for a doctor’s office would smell like. After a few more minutes it becomes almost lemony and fizzy and it begins to grow larger in its projection. To me, it’s very warm and cool at the same time as the green keeps it cool, but the rose and amber keep it warmed on the bottom. After around 15 minutes the fragrance loses the coolness and the oakmoss comes to the surface drying out the scent with it’s familiar woody powder. Add that to a very noticable, but sudued rose and that’s very pretty and a bit spicy. Funny, after around 30 minutes or so, the warm base begins to retreat but the fragrance retains the floral spiciness. In the end, it’s a very calming and pretty floral chypre that is not too dry. Wait!!! After around almost 1.5 hours the oakmoss really dries the fragrance out, but no worries, it’s still pretty and rather proper. Parure is perfect for the coming spring as I don’t really see that as a winter fragrance.

Parure Notes from Fragrantica: plum, bergamot, green notes; lily of the valley, rose, iris, lilac, jasmine, narcissus; and oak moss, spices, amber, rose and patchouli in the base.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A pretty spring day, where there’s a dry breeze flowing through the flowers.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PARURE: calming, pretty, reserved

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARURE: Yesterday’ Perfume, Eiderdown Press, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE: I have read so much about this discontinued Guerlain treasure and since I love my chypres I had to seek it out. I’m not disappointed as I love the fact that it’s not an uber chypre, but instead it is wonderfully subdued. Why did they discontinue it? Who knows, but I’m glad I got my hands on some. Now all I need to do is to find some of the parfum extrait!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Chypre Fruity
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: Varied through eBay and other sources. Review is based on the Eau de Toilette version.

February 11, 2014
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Vintage Review – Caron Infini

WHAT I SMELL: Infini goes on thick to the skin with a layered sheen, it opens quickly with aldehydes and then warms with a wonderful almost cinnamon like sandalwood. It’s rich and round with jasmine in the foreground, followed closely by a non-waxy tuberose (thankfully). This is big floral that’s slightly animalic, and the kind of perfume that makes me infinitely happy as it’s a woman’s perfume that’s unapologetic in its pomp. After around 10 minutes, the fragrance begins to lighten just slightly and it retreats to become a bit softer, a tad bit soapy with just an ever so slight hint of oakmoss. However, the gorgeous warm florals remain front and center. Infini doesn’t develop much which is fine because it doesn’t have to. It’s beautiful enough as it is.

From Fragrantica:

Infini by Caron was created in 1912 but In 1970, the perfume was reformulated. To echo and reflect the rhythm, futurism and speed of the early 70’s, Caron created a completely, original, revolutionary aroma with a base of tuberose, hyacinth and lily of the valley, all composed with notes of vetyver and sandalwood. Since it was the era of astronauts, the perfume was baptized “Infini” in honor of outer space. Its bottle, an asymmetrical sculpture designed by Serge Mansau, is hollowed out in the middle and is inspired by the mathematical sign for infinity.

A slight variation from Fragrantica, Yesterday’s Perfume posts the notes as:

Top notes: Aldehyde complex, bergamot, peach, neroli, coriander

Heart notes: Rose centifolia, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, ylang-ylang, carnation

Base notes: Sandalwood, vetiver, ambrein, tonka, musk, civet

A napping cat in the sun…very warm and happy.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I’m not getting the outer space connection besides the bottle design because this feels incredibly classic rather than futuristic….so I’ll bypass that analogy. Instead, Infini makes me feel “warm and happy.” And don’t get the wrong impression from the picture, this is about as sophisticated and beautiful floral feminine fragrance that is geared to the mature woman that you can get. But to me, it makes me “warm and happy!”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE INFINI: warm, substantial, elegant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT INFINI: The Black Narcissus, Yesterday’s Perfume, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE: This is another Caron beauty that I have fallen in love with. Again though, like with the other Caron’s I have tried, the lasting power could be a bit longer. Oh well, that means I’ll just have to use more.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral Aldehyde
Nose: Gerard Lefortis
Classification: Feminine
Expense: Review based on Parfum Extrait. Various prices and vintage concentrations can be found on eBay and through other sources.