The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: This is Not a Blue Bottle by Histoires de Parfums

histoires-de-parfum-bleu bottle

WHAT I SMELL:  This is Not a Blue Bottle opens with vibrant aldehydes tinged with a bright and sunny orange which is more energized than juicy.  Quickly, a warm honey seems to envelope the perfume and takes the bright and sunny to the warm and serene.  The perfume then moves towards a sweetened patchouli with hints of sugar.  But after another short period, this delightful sugared patchouli is met with a light musk that is warmed every so slightly with a woody amber.   This is Not a Blue Bottle is about an effortless and easy of wear of a perfume as there is.

From the Histoires de Parfums website:

For its latest publication, Histoires de Parfums is releasing a blue page representing freedom
of expression for all. This time Histoires de Parfums is not telling a novel, nor citing a tale or poem.

This blue page is yours to write as no one else can do it for you. It’s up to you to be the author of your story. 

Top Note: hypnotic aldehyde, electric orange

Heart Note: metallic geranium, polar honey

Base Note: magnetic amber, ethereal musk, attractive patchouli 

LifeisGoodWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Life is good!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE THIS IS NOT A BLUE BOTTLE: easy, versatile, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT THIS IS NOT A BLUE BOTTLE: Pierre de Nishapur

Bleu BottleBOTTOM LINE:  This is Not a Blue Bottle may be a concept perfume, but beyond the concept, the fragrance itself is a nice and easy to wear and pleasant every day perfume.  In other words, This is Not a Blue Bottle is a no muss, no fuss perfume with an added dose of great positive energy.  As an added bonus, the pricing is perfection!

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Nose: Gerald Ghislain and Julien Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $35 for .5 oz. or $105 for 2 oz.

Sample courtesy of Histoires de Parfums


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New Releases: Constance & Quentin by Deco London Perfumes

Deco London Perfumes

CONSTANCE

WHAT I SMELL:  Constance opens with the most inviting deep mandarin floral combination; it’s gorgeous, big, beautiful and rather buttery…and it’s thick and juicy and completely rapturous…oh, I could keep on going!   In a short time, the thick sheen of juice soon begins to thin and soften and the rather fruity opening moves to a light spice with jasmine at the heart.    Constance remains incredibly pretty, but the big, and bold moves towards the more mysterious and exotic.   Vanilla sets the tone moving forward, but with a light hand.  The perfume is so incredibly warm and inviting and it feels as if it pulses off the skin as if it were an extension of one’s being.  Additionally, a bit of labdanum adds just the right amount of amber like dimension keeping the vanilla in check.  In the end, Constance is this intoxicating warm and exotic floral that’s spiced, lightly powdered and incensed.  Constance is a head turner and absolutely beautiful.

Mata HariFrom the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love fruity and spicy scents, jasmine, luxury woods and vanilla…

The year is 1927…Constance is vivacious, passionate and chic; effortlessly elegant in tailored blouses and trousers during the day, but at night she is the centre of attention in an Egyptian-inspired beaded dress, red lipstick and daring high heels …

Top – Bergamot, Mandarin Blossom, Mimosa

Middle – Raspberry Blossom, Rose, Pink Pepper, Jasmine, Patchouli

Base – Sandalwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, Beeswax, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A woman of mystery…Mata Hari.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CONSTANCE:  intoxicating, rapturous, temptress (OK, so that’s a noun)

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Woody
  • Nose: Robertet
  • Classification: Feminine, but I could see a man wearing this as well.
  • Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum.  Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

QUENTIN

WHAT I SMELL: Quentin opens with a rather funky herbal tarragon and a cinnamon that mixed together is bold and smells a little off.  This initial funk makes me wonder what kind of ride I’m in for.  Soon enough, the herbal discordant opening starts to even out the rough edges and the mixture moves from the funkified to a more flattened woodiness and light leather.  At this stage, the perfume is really dry and the leather is front and center and a woody vetiver takes its place next to it.  In addition, a patchouli adds just a light sweetness to the perfume, but it chooses to stay in the background.  For some time, there’s a noticeable petroleum smell, as if the leather was cured in oil and grease.  But as the perfume develops, that starts to dissipate and a floral warmth takes its place.  On paper, this smelled a great deal to me like Miss Dior.  On my skin however, I am thinking not so much…that is until around 30 minutes into the wear.  And that’s a good thing.  Miss Dior rocks my world and it is about as masculine of a woman’s perfume as there is.  As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes less Miss Dior and ends up in this petroleum fueled leather spiced musk.   Quentin is a traditional scent fortified with just the right amount of daring.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love assertive elegant woody scents, leather notes and musk…

The year is 1925… Quentin is charming, stylish and impeccably attired and is always impeccably attired in flamboyant style. You will often find him relaxing by day at the cricket drinking a fine Sauvignon blanc and at parties by night sipping champagne…

Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon Bark, Tarragon

Heart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Patchouli

Base notes: Moss, Leather, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk

red-baron-Richtofe_3103687kWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The original Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE QUENTIN: bold, self-assured, headstrong

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Masculine
    • Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum.  Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DECO LONDON PERFUMES:  BGirl Rhapsody

BOTTOM LINE:  The Deco London line beautifully captures the essence of traditional perfumery, but with a modern sensibility.  As you can see, Constance is my favorite in the line, but the feminine floral essence of Millicent comes in a close second.  For the men, Quentin has that modern edge that makes it unique, but Ernest is an incredible old school classic perfume.  What a great start for a new perfume house.  Welcome Deco London, you’ve made quite the splash!

Samples courtesy of Indigo Perfumery.


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Iris Cendré by Naomi Goodsir

NAOMI-GOODSIR--Iris-Cendre-50-mlWHAT I SMELL:  Iris Cendré opens up cool, yet warm with a suede-like bergamot that starts to sparkle quickly with a dash of tangerine.  The perfume is semi-light and airy and reminds me of feathers descending to the ground after a pillow fight.  Soon the incense comes rushing to the forefront, but in a powdered and light-handed matter.  At this stage of the perfume, it feels like a giant powder puff of feminine floral magic.  What I find interesting is that you can feel the complexity and quality in the perfume, yet it carries itself in the most simple and elegant manner.  So where’s the iris?  It’s been there all along, but it’s soft, delicate and basking in warmth behind the other notes.  It doesn’t want to be the center of attention and instead choosing to be cool and aloof like iris can sometimes be.  As the perfume dries down, it becomes stripped of most of its moisture and ends it’s journey in a haze of incense which finally gives way to a light floral musk.  Iris Cendré has me mystified.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A fresh floral tone, led by bergamot, tangerine & spices. A rich & powdery heart of incense & purple iris. Sensuality is enhanced by cistus, tobacco & amber.

BlackSwanFeathersWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Black swan feathers.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE IRIS CENDRÉ:  elegant, elusive, restrained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRIS CENDRÉ:  Kafkaesque, Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Iris Cendré is an incredibly beautiful and restrained iris beauty.  It’s elegant simplicity and cool demeanor conceals a complex heart.  My only regret with the perfume is that the opening doesn’t last as long as I would like.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Noses: Julien Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.