The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Armani Prive’ Ambre Soie by Armani

You will notice that I have been reviewing a lot of amber scents as of late.  Last month, I ordered a Men’s Amber sample pack from The Perfumed Court.  If you’re not familiar with them, they offer decant service on an incredible variety of fragrances, including hard to find ones.  But I digress.  One of the samples that was part of this group was Ambre Soie.  I was very excited to try this and found that I wasn’t disappointed.  I found this to be an incredibly luxurious scent.  Upon application, I was first greeted with a beautiful combination of ginger, pepper and spices.  It then moved on to a lovely creamy and ethereal amber and patchouli. Ambre Soie is a very calming and elegant fragrance.  I just wish I had more than what I have in my small vial.  I can only imagine how wonderful it would be to spray this gem on!

From the Giorgio Armani Beauty website:

Amber’s voluptuousness and depth appealed to Giorgio Armani. He re-interpreted this rare olfactive essence using the light of wood and eastern spices. It is a blend of Cinnamon and Clove, a hint of Ginger which rustles on the waves of Patchouli. The light touch of spices and liquorice wood venture deliciously into the amber. More weighty: Artist and magician, Giorgio Armani transforms the amber into a golden fluid, silky and smooth, revealing the skin, the ultimate elegance of exposure. The top, inspired by the most sumptuous amber stone reveals its transparency with golden, coppery tones. Its warmth echoing its sensual and radiant energy.

  • Bone Rating:   4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:   Expensive – $200 for 100ml


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Educating the Scented Hound

The other day, one of the readers of this blog posed the following:

What do you know about perfume? Most people know what perfume is and many people use it themselves. When men use perfume, it is typically called cologne and the term “perfume” refers to a female’s brand. There are also perfumes for the home and car, etc. but the most common associated with the word is the kind you use on your body.

I have to admit that I have struggled with the same issue.  Cologne vs. perfume, male vs. female.  I know that colognes and parfums are made up different perfume concentrations, but how does that translate to terminology?

I took this question as an opportunity to further educate myself and decided to reach out to Elena Knezevic, Editor of Fragrantica.com.  She graciously provided the following explanation:

There is no strict definition.  Here in the US we usually say men’s colognes (without referring to their concentration), but some houses (French for example) offer eau de parfum, or even perfume (parfum or parfum extrait) for Men. We now see a strong trend to avoid the gender definition in fragrances, especially in luxury sector. It doesn’t mean they are unisex, we are free to decide. In this case they are all eau de parfum.  For example, Tom Ford Fragrances, they have no gender, but Tuscan Leather is mainly chosen by men, and Champaca Absolute – by women. Terre d’Hermes was launched as pure perfume extrait, and this s a perfume for men. Armani Prive collection, Serge Lutens
fragrances, it even has come to Arabian houses (they usually divide fragrances by gender), but the Omani house Amouage has its luxury Opus collection (6 fragrances so far) without reference to gender.

There was a time when men used colognes and bought them in drug stores and pharmacies together with cosmetic products, so it was more about hygiene, than luxury accessory. Perfumes were exclusively for women (in general of course, not totally). 

What are your thoughts on this matter?

Thanks to Elena K. for her valued input.


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Tolu by Ormonde Jayne

Please remember that when I am reviewing scents, it’s based on my opinion and my opinion only.  Scared??  Well, I wanted to get in this review quickly after finally getting home from being out all day so I could wash this off my skin and put on something else.  I received this sample a few weeks ago and thought I would give it a spin.  Have you figured out yet that it’s not my favorite?  At it’s base, this perfume is amber, but you can’t really tell that it’s so.  The juniper when first applied is all that you smell.  Very green, very crisp.  As time goes on, this mellows into a very light and green clean scent.  And when I say clean, I mean it felt to me as if I just got out of the shower and you could still smell the soap.  It has a bit of a soapy edge to me.  I don’t want to feel like I’m wearing laundry detergent.  This scent reminds me a lot of Mirto di Panerea, one of the fragrances in the Blue Mediterraneo line by Acqua Di Parma.  They both share a lot of the same ingredients.  Neither are for me.  Enough said, time to wash up.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Tolu is a Peruvian tree resin.

Perfume treasure, this opulent velvety formulation with pure Tolu resin takes you on a sensual Oriental journey. Laced with golden frankincense and amber, the scent’s core is enveloped with a heady mix of orange blossom and clary sage, while intense citrus notes consolidate the harmony.

Top Notes: Juniper berry, orange blossom and clary sage
Heart Notes: Orchid, Moroccan rose and muguet
Base Notes: Tolu, tonka bean, golden frankincense and amber

  • Bone Rating:   2 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine or Unisex
  • Expense:   Moderately Expensive – $126 for 50ml EDP