A couple of weeks ago I was going through my perfumes and I found a vintage gem that for some reason had been hidden within a box; a small 15 ml bottle of Y parfum extrait which I believe is from the late 60s or early 70s. Funny thing is that the same day that I found this little prize, Portia dropped a post on Undina’s Looking Glass about the same perfume. Obviously the perfumed gods were trying to tell me to do a review of this vintage chypre.
WHAT I SMELL: Y opens with a warmed honeyed galbanum layered with a dried woody vetiver and a hint of peach. The perfume goes on strong, but then settles into a much quieter mix of slightly soured florals that are rich, deep and wonderfully intoxicating. Y means business, serious business as there’s nothing soft or demure about the perfume. Instead, it wears like a tweed jacket..as if it’s been tinged with just a bit of dew bringing out the smell of the wool. As it continues to develop the oakmoss comes forth front and center surrounded by an ambered hue. In the end, the perfume settles into a lovely amber surrounded by soft florals. Y is perfect for cool fall nights when you want to leave a trail of deliciousness behind you as you get swept up in the cool air. Y doesn’t develop as much as it stakes its claim in being solidly beautiful.
Y Notes from Fragrantica:
- Top: Aldehydes, Green Notes, Galbanum, Honeysuckle, Gardenia, Peach, Mirabelle Plum
- Heart: Hyacinth, Orris Root, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Tuberose, Bulgarian Rose
- Base: Oakmoss, Civet, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Styrax
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Tweed via the 1970s.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE Y: secure, no-nonsense, solitary
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT Y: Undina’s Looking Glass, Bois de Jasmin
BOTTOM LINE: Y is a beautiful perfume, but not one that reaches out to me for a regular wear. Albeit being warm and posh, to me it feels a bit aloof and removed. I find that with most vintage perfumes I prefer them to be comfort scents and Y just doesn’t quite fit that bill. Of course, summer is wrapping up, and I might find that it’s just the right fit come October!
- Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
- Scent: Chypre
- Nose: Michael Hy
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: Varies on eBay, review based on parfum extrait
WHAT I SMELL: Essence Rare opens with what seems to be fading aldehydes that are quickly met by a spiced geranium. The perfume deepens quickly as the perfume moves to a civet and amber making it very mature almost from the start as there’s nothing light nor fluffy about it. As it continues to develop, the oakmoss pushes itself to the forefront and it’s here the perfume puts out a strong forcefield as it’s all powdered and dry oakmoss, spice and civet. After quite some time, the perfume begins to retreat a bit and thankfully a beautiful sandalwood laced with warm florals begins to take the perfume from the overt to the almost sublime. In the end, Essence Rare is still mature, but it’s much more approachable, albeit with a strong personality.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Forgive me, but the image of Dana Carvey’s “Church Lady” popped in my head. The perfume seems stuck in the 70s, is a bit unforgiving and begs to be noticed.
WHAT I SMELL: Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green. There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner. Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning. As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments. It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity. As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress. As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss. Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”
The Scented Hound 