The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


10 Comments

Revisiting Jo Malone: Dark Amber & Ginger Lily and Amber & Patchouli

amber-patchouliLast week I reviewed my first Jo Malone fragrance, Wild Bluebell,  and was completely underwhelmed not only with the fragrance itself, but with the way the fragrances don’t speak to me via their marketing or their store presence.  After some prodding by others, I was told to give the Jo Malone line another chance, specifically their Cologne Intense line.   Since I had to return a purchase to my local Nordstrom store this weekend, I thought it would be a good opportunity to check out some of the other Jo Malone fragrances.  Surprisingly, my local Nordstrom store has a large space dedicated to Jo Malone, but I still don’t find their display captivating as it is quite sterile and uniform.  After giving a few sniffs of the various Cologne Intense fragrances on paper, I settled on samples of the Dark Amber & Ginger Lily and Amber & Patchouli.

Dark AmberDARK AMBER & GINGER LILY – 

WHAT I SMELL: Opens with an astringent cardamom, which then quickly lightens and sweetens with an almost buttery undertone.  Funny, the sweetness only stays for a minute and then it evens out into this wonderful ginger with the cardamom sitting beneath almost smelling like cedar.  After about 10 minutes Dark Amber & Ginger Lily becomes very light but with a nice warm amber base, with a hint of incense.  This is nice, but very light and close to the skin.  After around 20 minutes the fragrance doesn’t morph much, but it really is lovely in its light presence.

From Fragrantica:

Dark Amber & Ginger Lily includes aromas of black cardamom, ginger and pink pepper in the top notes; the middle notes are jasmine, orchid, water lily and rose; while the base notes encompass leather, sandalwood, kyara incense, patchouli, black amber.

hintsoffallWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A hint of Fall.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DARK AMBER & GINGER LILY: meditative, mellow, peaceful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DARK AMBER & GINGER LILY:  Call it Beauty, Perfume Posse, The Scented Salamander

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Woody
  • Classification:  Marketed to women, but easily worn by a man
  • Expense:  $145 for 100ml Cologne Intense

AMBER & PATCHOULI – 

WHAT I SMELL:  Opens with a big astringent blast of patchouli.  The patchouli is sweet, not earthy and rather pretty. After a few minutes you can detect a bit of sour guaiac wood which starts to pull some of the moisture out of the fragrance making this more woody… and woody in the way of the smell of old barn planks.   But that quickly moves to the background as the sweet patchouli takes center stage… with the amber and the wood keeping this dry and slightly powdery and flattened in a linear sense.

From Fragrantica:

Amber & Patchouli is a rich woody – spicy scent of amber, patchouli and guaiac wood.

patentleatherWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfumed cotton/silk lining of a 1960s patent leather coat.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBER & PATCHOULI :   semi-sweet, semi-musty, pretty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBER & PATCHOULI  The Scent Critic, London Makeup Girl

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Woody
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $145 for 100ml Cologne Intense

BOTTOM LINE:   Will these two fragrances make me run to Jo Malone in the future?  Probably not.  But they also won’t make me discount the line as a whole either.  Nicely done Jo Malone!


10 Comments

gs02 by biehl parfumkunstwerke

gs02

The other day I was lucky enough to receive some samples of the biehl parfumkunstwerke line of fragrances.  They recently have been made available in the US market and I had yet to have any introduction to them, so I was excited to check them out.  My plan was to provide a review on biehl parfumkunstwerke’s gs03 which is their newest release, but for some reason I was strangely drawn to sample gs02 (released in 2007) instead.  Maybe notes like castoreum and descriptors like “erotic” had something to do with it!

WHAT I SMELL:  gs02 opens with an herbal orange/citrus note which is clean and somewhat astringent.  Quickly, gs02 begins to develop a bit of a sour note and in the background there lurks some castoreum, which gives the fragrance a bit of dirtiness…but it remains in the background.  I keep waiting for the leather, but it’s not quick to make its appearance and when it does, it too lurks in the background unwilling to really pounce.  After about 15 minutes, gs02 becomes more woody and after almost 30 minutes, the fragrance warms and becomes more radiant.  It’s funny, gs02 blends seamlessly and it’s incredibly restrained which makes this a wonderfully mysterious and hypnotic scent.

From the biehl parfumkunstwerke website:

charisma. determination. arrogance can be erotic after all.

head: aromatic, spicy.
the liveliness and elegance of absinth, Campari, orange, thyme, angelica roots

heart: leather perfectly combined with castoreum, rounded off very erotically with

base: ambergris, tonka been, vanilla

slyfoxWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A sly fox.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE gs02:  sexy, subtle, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT gs02:  That Smell (I couldn’t find any others)

BOTTOM LINE:  gs02 is lovely and a bit sexy, but very subtle.  I believe this would be a good fit if you need a great office scent that would translate well into the after work happy hour.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose:  Geza Schon
  • Classification: Unisex – but leans masculine
  • Expense:  $195 for 100ml EdP

Sample provided by Hypoluxe, official distributor of biehl parfumkunstwerke products.


11 Comments

Umbra by Ramon Monegal

WHAT I SMELL:  Opens with a surprising sweet, almost citrusy (although there is no citrus listed in the notes) vetiver that warms quickly into a peppered musk.  I’m not a huge fan of vetivers, but I like this because it’s not too green.  The pepper and musk ground this, making it a bit more earthy.  And hidden behind this muskiness is a sweet mossy woodiness that give this some life and depth.  As pleasant as this fragrance is, it pretty much disappeared from my skin after a few hours…and not just became faint, it really disappeared.

Notes: Haitian Vetiver root, Yugoslavian Tree Moss, Madagascar Black Pepper, Bourbon Geranium leaves, Canadian Fir Balsam and Tonka bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  What I believe women want men to smell like.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE UMBRA:  safe, comfortable, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT UMBRA:  Olfactoria’s Travels, Parfumistan’s Blogg, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE:  Umbra is a nice and pleasant vetiver and a good one for those who don’t lean towards liking them.  I just wish it would last longer on my skin.  Although this is considered a unisex scent, I do believe it leans pretty masculine.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Fougere – woody – spicy
  • Nose: Ramon Monegal
  • Classification: Unisex, leans masculine
  • Expense: $185 for 50ml EdP