The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Frassaï El Sur Collection – El Descanso

2020 has been a difficult year, one which I’m sure most would say they would rather put behind them.  I thought about doing a year end list of recommendations for Christmas earlier this month, but I just wasn’t feeling the spirit of the holidays.   So instead, I decided to look ahead to 2021 and the promise of a new year.  And thankfully, Frassaï has just released a trio of perfumes as part of their new El Sur collection.  All three perfumes in the collection, El Descanso, Cuir Pampas and Rosa Sacra are wonderful in their own respective ways and I will be reviewing all three in the upcoming weeks.  But today, I thought I would start off with probably the most unique perfume in the collection, El Descanso.

WHAT I SMELL:  El Descanso opens with a breath of lemony green and a warm and dry ambrette that is soon met with a lightly nuttied grain.  Right from the first spritz, the perfume feels earthy without the dirt and soil, but in the abundance that the earth can bring in grains and grass.  The perfume begins to grow in volume, but it remains in the grassy field as starts to warm in a late afternoon sun.  After some time, a layer of puttied mimosa hovers over the wheat like grass which makes the perfume more rounded.  The addition of the mimosa is ever so slight and it adds just the right amount of sweetness to the natural splendor of the grass.  As the perfume continues to slowly develop, a spice is added along with an ambery sandalwood.  Still natural in the grass, the perfume now is deeper in its warmth and radiation with just a tinge of green.  El Descanso is a perfume that can bring the golden warmth to the day no matter what the weather is like outside.


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OroNardo by Xinú

WHAT I SMELL:  OroNardo’s opening is heavenly with creamy buttery lightly spiced tuberose that sparkles and buzzes with just the lightest of earthiness brushed with orange blossom.  The warmed perfume wafts and dances like sun-kissed florals in the Mexican summer breeze.  A greenish stem comes forward taking the perfume from the garden to the most luscious of bouquets.  This is tuberose that’s not heavy nor overbearing, but tuberose that’s fresh and lightly dewy and which is very much alive.  As the perfume continues to develop, the florals become lighter and rise into a heavenly aura.  Here the perfume resides in a true essence of floral harmony wrapped up in the lightest of powder.  Breathtaking.


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Guerlain Lui

WHAT I SMELL:  Lui opens with a warm, lightly spiced benzoin that’s deeply sensuous and lightly tar like, but without the heavy weight.  Soon enough, a buzzing carnation makes an entrance in the quietest of ways.  And then, a nutmeg and clove spice begins to take shape after a short time adding just a bit of a bite.  The perfume is rather brooding in it’s spicy persona with a mix of benzoin, leather and vanilla spice carrying the perfume on its journey.  In the end, you’re left with a light smoky dry haze of a perfume that hugs close to the skin.

From the Guerlain website:

Feminine. Masculine. Why choose? LUI is a fragrance that likes to blur the boundaries. Not entirely feminine, nor truly masculine, it is both at once. Inspired by a generation that is breaking free from gender norms, Guerlain had the idea of an unmistakably universal fragrance.

Its ambiguous fragrance trail is based on benzoin: floral, spicy and woody in turn, this resin is revealed in all of its complexity as the composition created by perfumer Delphine Jelk unfolds. Fused with powdery and spicy carnation accents, they form an equally unexpected and harmonious blend.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Autumn in Paris.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LUI:  reserved, contemplative, semi-spicy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LUI:  The Black Narcissus, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I love Guerlain perfumes, but I don’t love Lui.  Truly a fall and winter perfume, the nutty-ish spice almost reminds me of the season’s tragic “pumpkin spice” phenomena.  And weirdly, Lui doesn’t make me feel any emotion as I wear it.  Instead, it just rather bores me.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Spicy Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Delphine Jelk
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $185 for 50 ml eau de parfum