WHAT I SMELL: Lui opens with a warm, lightly spiced benzoin that’s deeply sensuous and lightly tar like, but without the heavy weight. Soon enough, a buzzing carnation makes an entrance in the quietest of ways. And then, a nutmeg and clove spice begins to take shape after a short time adding just a bit of a bite. The perfume is rather brooding in it’s spicy persona with a mix of benzoin, leather and vanilla spice carrying the perfume on its journey. In the end, you’re left with a light smoky dry haze of a perfume that hugs close to the skin.
From the Guerlain website:
Feminine. Masculine. Why choose? LUI is a fragrance that likes to blur the boundaries. Not entirely feminine, nor truly masculine, it is both at once. Inspired by a generation that is breaking free from gender norms, Guerlain had the idea of an unmistakably universal fragrance.
Its ambiguous fragrance trail is based on benzoin: floral, spicy and woody in turn, this resin is revealed in all of its complexity as the composition created by perfumer Delphine Jelk unfolds. Fused with powdery and spicy carnation accents, they form an equally unexpected and harmonious blend.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Autumn in Paris.
THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LUI: reserved, contemplative, semi-spicy
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LUI: The Black Narcissus, Colognoisseur
BOTTOM LINE: I love Guerlain perfumes, but I don’t love Lui. Truly a fall and winter perfume, the nutty-ish spice almost reminds me of the season’s tragic “pumpkin spice” phenomena. And weirdly, Lui doesn’t make me feel any emotion as I wear it. Instead, it just rather bores me.
- Bone Rating: 2.5 out of possible 5 bones
- Scent: Spicy Woody Floral
- Nose: Delphine Jelk
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: $185 for 50 ml eau de parfum
September 21, 2020 at 7:55 am
Horrible stuff. 2.5 bones is being kind.
September 21, 2020 at 7:59 am
LOL…not a fan I see 🙂
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September 21, 2020 at 6:55 pm
Sometimes the points are in that 3.5 – 4 range, and the description leaves me thinking “another one of those….” but your score is so low on this, I HAVE to sniff it. It’s like rubber-necking; in this case, I gotta see the whole ugly awful thing. When STC gets it, I’ll have a SMALL sniff.:)
September 21, 2020 at 8:04 pm
I love your style! However, not ugly in this case, just rather blah.
September 21, 2020 at 10:26 pm
Thank you for saving me from spending $ on a sample of this one. I’ve tried 2 of the recent Arts et Matieres series, Neroli Outrenoir and Iris Torreife, and like them both but had not tried the Lui. I get it mixed up with Liu, but I think they are quite different.
September 22, 2020 at 5:53 am
Money well saved. I am curious about the Iris Torreife…I have heard mixed messages. Iris seems to be in play these days by a number of houses.
September 30, 2020 at 5:01 am
It’s funny how different you and I are in our perfume preferences. While most Guerlain perfumes do not work for me (there are several great exceptions, but I don’t like many more than I do), I liked this one. Not a “bottle-worthy,” but a paid for decant in my collection. But I’m partial to carnations.
September 30, 2020 at 7:03 am
Ahhhh, yes carnations. Not one of my favorites. LOL.
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