The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: review


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New Release: Ex Idolo Ryder & Interview with Ex Idolo’s Matthew Zhuk

Ryder-50mlWHAT I SMELL: Ryder opens with a lightly boozy ambered wood.  It reminds me of the beginning of fall, when ashen wood meets the semi-sun tinged skies.  After a couple of minutes, the perfume lightens and becomes a bit sweeter, like the sweetened tobacco sitting in the bowl of a pipe.  Ryder is anything but brash or loud, instead the subtle rise of the tobacco and frankincense weaves around the wearer like an aura of comfort. After 10 minutes, a rounded and full-bodied jasmine enters and takes its place right in the middle of the composition as if it was the filling in an old and worn wooded box.  What started off as of more of a standard woody perfume now takes on a new dimension of mixing the masculine and the feminine.    The jasmine also adds a thicken headiness which gives the perfume more projection.  In the end, Ryder is a spiced jasmine beauty that lives in the world of masculinity.

From the Ex Idolo press release:

A FRAGRANCE INSPIRED BY THE HISTORY OF MAYFAIR AND ST JAMES

True to the traditions of the grand houses of the golden age of perfume, Ex Idolo has created an exceptional blend inspired by the history of the members clubs of Mayfair and St. James in London. The fragrance is a juxtaposition of sweet tobacco and boozy notes against a warm woody-amber accord. The fragrance is anchored by a sparkling and ultra rare Omani (Hougari) frankincense. Although inspired by the past, Ryder is a modern fragrance; it is worth mentioning that although many of the members clubs started as male-only – a large number of them now invite women as well. To represent this, Ryder’s distinctive character has been enhanced with a heady, indolic Royal jasmine. Ryder is a unisex fragrance.

The one and only Marlene Dietrich

The one and only Marlene Dietrich

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Neither all masculine, nor all feminine, Ryder is the perfect old world gender bender.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE RYDER: confident, secure, bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RYDER: Scooshy

BOTTOM LINE: Ryder is the perfect scent for the coming fall months.  It’s intoxicating and heady jasmine makes me look forward to the impending change of seasons.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Woody
  • Nose: Matthew Zhuk
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $185 for 50 ml Release Eau de Parfum
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Matthew Zhuk, Ex Idolo

Mr. Zhuk, the creative mind and nose behind the Ex Idolo brand was gracious enough to answer some of the Hound’s questions:

The Scented Hound:  The inspiration behind the perfume, “the history of the St. James and Mayfair” fits perfectly with the feel of the perfume.  What compelled you towards this historical reference in creating Ryder?

Matthew Zhuk:  When I moved to London 4 years ago I actually had the privilege of visiting a lot of these clubs. I’ve always been a fan of the things of old, antiques.. mechanical watches, you name it – so naturally it was very interesting for me. A lot of the things I saw and sensory experiences I had really stuck with me and I guess that’s where the inspiration came from. It’s not really meant to be a literal or realistic interpretation as some perfumes do with their subjects of interpretation – but rather my interpretation through the lens of memory and human experience.

The Scented Hound:  Where does the name Ryder derive from?

Matthew Zhuk: Ryder Street is a street in St. James which once was home to one of the oldest members clubs in London – now there are some art, rare books and manuscripts dealers in the area.

The Scented Hound:  Ex Idolo 33 was launched in 2013, why so long for a sophomore release?

Matthew Zhuk:  I’m not a fan of brands releasing “x” many perfumes per year, quarter, etc – it’s not good for the industry and it’s not good for the consumer either. Of course, this is the open market and anyone can do as they wish – but it’s not really my style 🙂

The Scented Hound:  Now that Ryder is launching, anything next in store for Ex Idolo?

Matthew Zhuk:  Always ideas floating around – I can’t even predict which one will be the one to see the light of day. It’s quite possible that the next Ex Idolo product won’t be a perfume.

I love it when a perfumer and creative director aren’t led by the conventions of trying to create and market based on the latest trends.  Matt Zhuk and Ex Idolo have really created something exceptional with Ryder.  We’ll see how long it takes or what kind of product is introduced by the brand next, but I have the feeling it will be something pretty special.  Thanks Matt!


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Antonia by Puredistance

pd-antonia-175WHAT I SMELL:  Antonia opens with an absolutely heady and exhilarating rush of full floral lushness with the beautiful ylang-ylang front and center.  The perfume is luxuriant and rather waxy and it sits on the deepest powdered galbanum that seems to push the florals off of the skin.  Antonio makes my head swim with its feminine power.  There is nothing demure about this lady; but don’t get me wrong she is a lady in every sense of the word.  The perfume transforms, but not dramatically or with any sharp or sudden turns or edges, instead, she slowly moves from the brightest and dryest green to more of a warm and lightly soapy symphony of florals.  Antonia is a ravishing beauty from the very beginning when the rush of the green florals radiate from the first spritz and continues for hours to come.  When you wear this perfume, you are in Antonia’s world and it’s as beautiful of a world as you’ll ever experience.

From the Puredistance website:

Created by Master Perfumer Annie Buzantian in New York, Puredistance ANTONIA is a highly original green floral with a great lushness and warmth of heart, but at the same time pillowy and gentle as can be. Key in the creation of ANTONIA is the image of a strong, positive, but at the same time gentle woman.

The perfume is neither modern, nor old-fashioned. Puredistance ANTONIA is a timeless perfume with a feel of innocence, yet feminine and confident. She grabs you with gentleness and faithfully stays with you, tenacious,  but never overwhelming.

Ingredients: Jasmine, Rose Essence, Ylang Ylang, Orris, Ivy green, Galbanum, Vanilla and Vetiver. 

Ziegfiled Girl 1920s

Ziegfiled Girl – 1920s

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  All woman; all-powerful in her beauty and sexuality.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ANTONIA:  magnificent, heady, voluminous

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ANTONIA: Olfactoria’s Travels, Undina’s Looking Glass, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Puredistance is turning out to at the top of the list of my favorite perfume houses.  Their perfumes are works of art in that they are exquisitely refined and of the highest quality.  Where other perfumes develop with harsh twist and turns, their perfumes transform and reveal the loveliest of secrets with a whisper.  Puredistance wants to ensure their perfumes are perfection, and because of this new introductions to the line are far and few between.  But when they do release a new perfume, its pure magic as evident with their latest release, White.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose: Annie Buzantian
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $160 for 17 ml parfum extrait or $270 for 60 ml.  Note that Puredistance has some fantastic promotions on their website!


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Blomma Cult by Room 1015

Blomma3-500x500

WHAT I SMELL:  Blomma Cult opens with a deep warm bergamot…not the typical bright bergamot, but this beautiful grounded and earthy bergamot mixed with a radiant lilac.  The perfume’s opening is very unusual and very much a temptress if there was one.  Very quickly out of the gate, there’s also a mentholated vapor that engulfs the opening; it feels as if the vapor holds an elixir that could weave a spell of hypnotic control.  And after around 10 minutes, a very subdued cinnamon develops.  I’m not a huge fan of cinnamon in fragrance…or gum, or really in anything, but here it just adds this special layer of bold beefiness to this already warmed and pulsating potion.  After another 10 minutes, the perfume begins to sweeten and soften and the perfume becomes velvety smooth.  There’s also a bit of violet tartness that projects from the mix along with some powder.  What started off as deep and beefy has turned to the beautiful powdered floral musk with hints of the original beef still lingering in the background.

From the Room 1015 website:

”Blomma Cult is a floral, sensual and bewitching fragrance built around patchouli and cashmeran. It is my olfactory perception of the 1960’s and1970’s counterculture movement with the sexual liberation and the rise of the hippie culture.”

Head: Bergamot, Lilac Heart: Cashmeran, Patchouli, Violet  Base: Cinnamon, Vanilla, White Musks

red velvet blazerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A swinging 60’s red velvet blazer!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BLOMMA CULT: dynamic, creative, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLOMMA CULT: Ye Olde Civet Cat

BOTTOM LINE:  Michael Partouche, or Dr. Mike as he is called, created Room 1015 to combine is love for lotions and potions with his love for music which inspired him to create this new line of perfume.  I love the concept, the website, the look and feel…and I really like Blomma Cult.  It’s different, full of energy and at the same time incredibly powdery pretty in the end.  Rock on Dr. Mike!

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary