WHAT I SMELL: Ryder opens with a lightly boozy ambered wood. It reminds me of the beginning of fall, when ashen wood meets the semi-sun tinged skies. After a couple of minutes, the perfume lightens and becomes a bit sweeter, like the sweetened tobacco sitting in the bowl of a pipe. Ryder is anything but brash or loud, instead the subtle rise of the tobacco and frankincense weaves around the wearer like an aura of comfort. After 10 minutes, a rounded and full-bodied jasmine enters and takes its place right in the middle of the composition as if it was the filling in an old and worn wooded box. What started off as of more of a standard woody perfume now takes on a new dimension of mixing the masculine and the feminine. The jasmine also adds a thicken headiness which gives the perfume more projection. In the end, Ryder is a spiced jasmine beauty that lives in the world of masculinity.
From the Ex Idolo press release:
A FRAGRANCE INSPIRED BY THE HISTORY OF MAYFAIR AND ST JAMES
True to the traditions of the grand houses of the golden age of perfume, Ex Idolo has created an exceptional blend inspired by the history of the members clubs of Mayfair and St. James in London. The fragrance is a juxtaposition of sweet tobacco and boozy notes against a warm woody-amber accord. The fragrance is anchored by a sparkling and ultra rare Omani (Hougari) frankincense. Although inspired by the past, Ryder is a modern fragrance; it is worth mentioning that although many of the members clubs started as male-only – a large number of them now invite women as well. To represent this, Ryder’s distinctive character has been enhanced with a heady, indolic Royal jasmine. Ryder is a unisex fragrance.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Neither all masculine, nor all feminine, Ryder is the perfect old world gender bender.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE RYDER: confident, secure, bold
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RYDER: Scooshy
BOTTOM LINE: Ryder is the perfect scent for the coming fall months. It’s intoxicating and heady jasmine makes me look forward to the impending change of seasons.
- Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
- Scent: Woody
- Nose: Matthew Zhuk
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: $185 for 50 ml Release Eau de Parfum
Mr. Zhuk, the creative mind and nose behind the Ex Idolo brand was gracious enough to answer some of the Hound’s questions:
The Scented Hound: The inspiration behind the perfume, “the history of the St. James and Mayfair” fits perfectly with the feel of the perfume. What compelled you towards this historical reference in creating Ryder?
Matthew Zhuk: When I moved to London 4 years ago I actually had the privilege of visiting a lot of these clubs. I’ve always been a fan of the things of old, antiques.. mechanical watches, you name it – so naturally it was very interesting for me. A lot of the things I saw and sensory experiences I had really stuck with me and I guess that’s where the inspiration came from. It’s not really meant to be a literal or realistic interpretation as some perfumes do with their subjects of interpretation – but rather my interpretation through the lens of memory and human experience.
The Scented Hound: Where does the name Ryder derive from?
Matthew Zhuk: Ryder Street is a street in St. James which once was home to one of the oldest members clubs in London – now there are some art, rare books and manuscripts dealers in the area.
The Scented Hound: Ex Idolo 33 was launched in 2013, why so long for a sophomore release?
Matthew Zhuk: I’m not a fan of brands releasing “x” many perfumes per year, quarter, etc – it’s not good for the industry and it’s not good for the consumer either. Of course, this is the open market and anyone can do as they wish – but it’s not really my style 🙂
The Scented Hound: Now that Ryder is launching, anything next in store for Ex Idolo?
Matthew Zhuk: Always ideas floating around – I can’t even predict which one will be the one to see the light of day. It’s quite possible that the next Ex Idolo product won’t be a perfume.
I love it when a perfumer and creative director aren’t led by the conventions of trying to create and market based on the latest trends. Matt Zhuk and Ex Idolo have really created something exceptional with Ryder. We’ll see how long it takes or what kind of product is introduced by the brand next, but I have the feeling it will be something pretty special. Thanks Matt!