review | The Scented Hound

June 29, 2016
by The Scented Hound 6 Comments

La Manufacture Cologne Rare

WHAT I SMELL: Cologne Rare initially shines with a fresh citrus and bright bergamot opening. But there’s a little surprise with the addition of a lightly herbal and sharpened green note. In all it’s like a sun filled herbal garden surrounded by several lemon and lime trees. The freshness and sparkle from the opening starts to warm on the skin and there’s a light sugared tartness that adds just the modern uniqueness to this rather traditional scent. As the cologne continues to develop, a sweetened patchouli that feels topped with lavender, pulsates off the skin. In a short while, the patchouli becomes the centerpiece, but the woodiness of the note seems to be wrapped around a citrus tinged vetiver. And just when you thought the perfume had found its resting place, it instead continues to deepen like a golden elixir. This is one nice cologne.

From the La Manufacture website:

A breath of bergamot and basil

Under the intense sun, one seeks out the scarce shade beneath the dungeon’s stone vault. You can sprinkle yourself with a spirited freshness.

Bergamot collides with basil, peel meets leaf. Notes full of character cross steel in an exchange of green… The green tartness of rhubarb yields to the somber green of patchouli and vetiver, giving rise to full-bodied base notes. A breath of coolness lingers, weaving among heightened wood notes.

“I chose bergamot from Italy for its lavender and pepper undertones. The basil from Egypt, with its singular anise note, makes the transition from citrus to green heart. The green is darkened by a smoky-leather note specific to vetiver from Haiti.

Carla Chabert, perfumer

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A stroll through the sun warmed Italian countryside.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE RARE: comforting, easy, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE RARE: No additional reviews were found.

BOTTOM LINE: Cologne Rare is the perfect antidote for the heat of the summer. It’s an uncomplicated, yet modern, version of a classic citrus cologne with a tangy herbal edge. It’s bright, sunny, easy to wear and it can’t help but put you in a good mood.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Carla Chabert
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 for 100 ml cologne

June 27, 2016
by The Scented Hound 13 Comments

New Release: Mona di Orio Bohea Bohème

WHAT I SMELL: Bohea Bohème initially sings with a beautiful leathered bergamot covered in a swath of cardamom, with hints of sweetness and brown sugared florals. Incredibly exotic and lightly warmed, the perfume pulls you in and holds you captive as soon as it touches your skin. After a few minutes, the perfume adopts of light creaminess and the sugared flakes turn more to a muted lotion. There’s a haze that emanates from the cream, like smoked incense. There’s also a tea note that emerges, but instead of dominating the perfume with a watery thin high pitch, the tea is rooted and thickened as if it’s made up of a reduction of warmed tea leaves in a bottom of a cup. As the perfume continues to deepen, it seems to develop as if its a sheet that is unfurled and a dreamy sandalwood takes hold as the perfume seems to darken in color and depth. Bohea Bohème ends its journey quietly with a radiant breath that’s softly spiced and completely exotic.

From the Mona di Orio website:

Bohea Bohème captures the smoldering delicacy of the distinctive tea cultivated in the Wuyi Mountains of China. The precious Bohea Tea, fumed with pinewood, is prized for its complex aroma and rich character.

Notes: Italian Bergamot, Cardamom Absolute, Florentine Iris, Blue Chamomile, Poplar Bud Absolute, Fir Balsam Fraction, Boxtree absolute, Geranium Absolute, Black tea oil, Smoked Juniper, Oakwood absolute, Sandalwood India, Beeswax Absolute, Bay leaf Absolute.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A snake in the most beautiful sense of being…the perfume doesn’t develop as much as it slowly glides through the most subtle of movements revealing small nuances as it wraps itself around the wood and green.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOHEA BOHÈME: gorgeous, mysterious, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOHEA BOHÈME: CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: When I found out that the new Mona di Orio perfume was tea based I have to say that I was not excited as tea based perfumes are one of my least favorite genres. However, Bohea Bohème broke the mold for me…it’s absolutely breathtaking in its originality and the tea note is just one amongst all the notes that blends seamlessly to create this skin hugging mystery. Perfumer Fredrik Dalman has created something very special here.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
Nose: Fredrik Dalman
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 75 ml eau de parfum

June 15, 2016
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne

WHAT I SMELL: Sud Magnolia initially reveals a bitter orange and soured citrus accord that’s ripe, juicy and fresh as well as a berried note that is green from the stem. Quickly, the perfume becomes warmer, like the citrus opening has been warmed in the sun. Still juicy, the perfume moves towards the more floral with a soft magnolia making its presence known. There’s a cottony freshness about the perfume which reminds me of sun laden sheets on a clothesline. The freshness of the sun, combined with the warm breezes fill the sheets with a warmed comfort. As the perfume develops, the magnolia blooms, but very subtly. This magnolia is a real lady, strolling through the hot sun under a parasol shielding herself from the blinding heat and light. Slow to continue her journey, Sud Magnolia begins to become a tad sweeter and once again feels touched with a dewy freshness. Eventually, a very subdued woody musk eases in to complete this stroll under the Magnolia tree.

Top notes : bitter orange from Seville, pomelo from Florida, blackcurrant from Burgundy

Heart notes : magnolia from Louisiana, Bulgarian rose absolue, saffron flower from India

Base notes : atlas cedarwood from Morocco, sandalwood from New Caledonia, musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A stroll through the streets of New Orleans with the springtime Japanese Magnolias in full bloom.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUD MAGNOLIA: comforting, fresh, genteel

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUD MAGNOLIA: Mostly Sunny, Chemist in the Bottle, Scent of Abricots

BOTTOM LINE: Sud Magnolia is a nice interpretation of magnolia that is fresh and soft. My only regret is that it dissipates quickly on my skin to a rather innocuous musk.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Jerome Epinette
Classification: Leans Feminine
Expense: $125 for 3.3 oz. Cologne Absolue