The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens

When I woke up this morning, it was raining and humid and I was feeling a bit ornery.  I pulled out my untested samples and thought that Muscs Koublai Khan would be the right scent to match my mood as I wasn’t set for something light and airy.  Of course, being one of those days I managed to spill most of the fragrance from the vial, but managed beforehand to dab myself with this interesting fragrance.

Muscs Koublai Khan went on quite sweet.  The sweetness was surrounded by rubbery musk.  I found it sexy and heavy.  But after a time that heaviness leveled out and it turned into a familiar scent.  I have been wracking my brain all day to figure out what scent it reminded me of.  To this point I can’t answer that, but I do know that it goes way back.  It reminds me of some powerhouse scent from the 80s.  As the drydown continued, I also noticed that it has a bit of a barber shop smell to it, something similar to Brylcreem.  In other words, it has a bit of a musky chemical smell.

I’m waffling on this fragrance, I have read comments where it has been compared to Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur, but Muscs Koublai Khan is much more subdued and doesn’t have ooomph, that Musc Ravageur hits you with.  That’s not a bad thing, but it doesn’t make it quite as exciting for me.  Maybe it’s just my mood… being ornery and writing a review doesn’t fair well for any fragrance!

Muscs Koublai Khan Notes:

Vegetal Musk, Roots of Costus, Labdanum Rockrose, Grey Amber, Vanilla, Patchouli, Ambrette Seeds, pure Moroccan Rose

  • Bone Rating:   3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Chypre – Musk
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $140 for 50ml EDP


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May Lily by Freddie and other reviews

A couple of weeks ago, Freddie author of the smellythoughts blog, tricked his readers with a review on a new perfume May Lily.  As it turns out, this was Freddie’s first foray into creating a scent.  Creating that perfect scent is something that no doubt, all perfume lovers dream about and I believe that he was extremely tickled to have the opportunity to actually try.  You can read all about May Lily by clicking here.

After reading his review, I said I would love to sample his new fragrance and to give it a review of my own.  Freddie kindly offered to send me a sample of May Lily and forwarded a batch of other scents as well.  There was only one problem, when the package arrived, all of the writing on the labels had faded and as a green pen was used, all that was left was green & yellow undecipherable smudge.  So Freddie told me what he sent and I am seeing if my nose can differentiate the different scents.  So hold on, I hope that I am giving the proper quick reviews for these fragrances.

May Lily by Freddie – May Lily starts off with a floral sweetness.  There is a nice, soft and sweet innocence about the opening.  But given a short amount of time, May Lily turns a bit more subdued, I smell ever so much of a hint of leather and what I almost characterize as a baby powder kind of smell, but without the powder aspect.  There is something strangely familiar with the mid notes, maybe its the lily, but it doesn’t seem like lily to me.  And as time goes on, there is a bit of a burnt smell that lightly creeps out.  Kudos, to Freddie for this first attempt, there is nothing linear with May Lily and that’s part of the excitement to watch the scent change and morph!  And this is clearly a unisex scent that could work for anybody. Bone Rating of 4 Bones out of 5.

Aoud Lime by Montale – I made the mistake of opening up the Aoud Lime by Montale and applying that first.  Unfortunately, once you get a whiff of this scent it holds your nostrils hostage and you can’t smell anything else.  Aoud Lime holds nothing back, it’s loud and sharp in almost a plastic beefy sense.  I smell some rose and saffron, but am not really getting the lime.  I’m not a huge Montale’s fan and this scent hasn’t change my mind.  Bone Rating of 3 Bones out of 5.

Commando by Smell Bent – If you read the review by Freddie on Commando, you’ll find that he is in love with this scent. To me however, Commando smells like a dirty jockstrap. Commando is a mix of sweat, musk and other fecal and noxious ingredients.  I have said enough.  Sorry Freddie. Bone Rating of 1 Bone out of 5.

Avignon by Comme Des Garcons – Avignon reminds me of summers at my cousin’s farm.  There is something very familiar with this scent. Old wooden floorboards, mixed with dust.  Burnt wood and ageless use of an old building.  Avignon’s incense and dryness make for an unusual scent.  It is a scent that I would have a hard time finding the right time and place to wear it.  And I typically like scents that make me feel warm and happy.  There is something very remote about this scent.  Avignon is a scent that wears you, not the other way around.  Incredibly interesting… probably more suited for the Goth in your life.  Bone Rating of 3 Bones out of 5.

Freddie sent some other samples to me, but at this time, by nose is tuckered out from identifying and testing these different scents in one setting.  More to come with the others!


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06 Amanu by Odin

06 Amanu recently won the Fragrance Foundation’s 2012 Fifi “Indie” Fragrance Award.  Given such high regard, I had to check this fragrance out.  I loved 07 Tanoke, and since this is an award winner, I was sure I was going to like this as well.  Hmmmm, not sure what the fuss is all about.

06 Amanu is a light and airy fragrance.  It goes on almost a bit salty and then quickly turns floral and lightly sweet.  I can smell the blood orange and the jasmine along with a light musk.  As time goes on, the musk and amberwood warm 06 Amanu a bit, reducing the original sweetness.  This is about as discreet of a fragrance that you can find.  It hugs close to the skin and feels very personal, almost bath like in its composition.  To me, that means that I could have just emerged from taking a bath with some pretty bath salts and would have smelled the same.  06 Amanu is marketed as unisex, but I do think this leans more feminine.  I’m not digging it on me and would have a hard time seeing other men wear this.

For an award winner, I was expecting something more daring.  This scent is pretty safe… and not for me.

From the Odin website:

The primitive ambiance of southern Mediterranean peaks combined with the ancient fertility of Anatolian soils brings forth a herbaceous blend of verdant galbanum and raw lentisque. The cortex of Amanu revolves around the woody rusticity of cedarleaf and the heady complexity of jasmine sambac. Rooting textures of amberwood, musk and live moss endow this earthy scent with a lush maturity.

Top: Blood Orange, Green Galbanum, Lentisque
Middle: Aged Cedarleaf, Jasmin Sambac, Magnolia
Bottom: Amberwood, Sheer Musk, Live Moss

  • Bone Rating:   3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Woody – aromatic
  • Classification:  Unisex but leans feminine
  • Expense:  $125 for 100ml EDT