The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Durga by D.S. & Durga

WHAT I SMELL:  Oh how I love an opening that’s creamy, heady, full of smooth as silk orris butter and orange blossom and that’s big, big, big and incredibly intoxicating. Phew…it’s like diving into a tub filled with the most narcotic of jasmine, ylang, ylang and tuberose blossoms.  With all of this going on, there’s a green melon note that lurks below the florals and a dried and distinctive chrysanthemum note that smells like pencil shavings.   The perfume is pure heaven in that it’s exotic, beautiful, dreamy and incredibly rapturous.  It’s also full of life…big life.  The perfume continues to green as it wears, but the hypnotic florals seems to glide on, albeit a bit quieter.  In the end, the beautiful florals thankfully don’t make way for a nondescript wood or musk.  Instead, the perfume retains this lush green fruity floral persona that at times feels like bouquet of the flowers  and at other times it has a strangely curious fruity gourmand feel that makes you want to lick the goodness off of your skin.  Durga has clearly cast its spell on me.

From the D.S. & Durga website:

Palatial doses of the finest floral absolutes –
tuberose, orris butter, orange blossom, sambac jasmine,
chrysanthemum, and ylang.  Unimaginably narcotic.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A jubilant floral explosion.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DURGA: bountiful, voluminous, concentrated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DURGA:  None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE:  I believe by now it’s clearly obvious that I love this perfume.  And why not, it holds everything that I love, heady white florals, orris butter, and the most intoxicating tuberose.  Some may question the price, but to me, this limited edition of floral heaven is worth every penny!

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Green
  • Nose:  David Moltz
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $350 for 50 ml eau de parfum – limited edition

* Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.


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Signature Wild by Art de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:  Signature Wild’s opening is bright and sparkling with a fresh blast of herbal spice which moves quickly to a bone dry flattened fruit.  The perfume takes on a slightly sour edge that feels like it has been drained of juice and has been left out to dry and age.  Soon, the sour and light decay start to retreat and a warm labdanum seems to roll on in like a fog covering the horizon.  At this point, the perfume becomes more rugged and incredibly sexy.  There’s a hefty beef that’s evident, but it’s not in the way that overt…instead it radiates confidence.  A quiet and subdued leather is then met with a lightly sweetened balsam and a buzzing vetiver.  Here the perfume remains…unassuming with subdued sexiness that’s easy to wear.

From the Art de Parfum website:

UNAPOLOGETICALLY DARK AND WILD.

This highly addictive fragrance combines a powerful leather accord with the boozy and syrupy davana herb and sweet delicacy of orange blossom

TOP NOTES: cinnamon, davana, cardamon

MIDDLE NOTES: orange blossom, dried fruits, radiant woods

BASE NOTES: labdanum (cistus), leather, sandalwood, Peru balsam, Haitian vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Robert Mitchum.  Smoldering sexuality and quiet virility.  A little dangerous and always in control.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SIGNATURE WILD:  self-assured, unpretentious, manly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SIGNATURE WILD:  Colognoisseur, The Scented Apprentice, I Scent You A Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Art de Parfum debuted five fragrances in 2016.  Signature Wild is my favorite in the line, but there is something for everyone from a refreshing cologne (Gin & Tonic) to a beautiful and mysterious rose oud (Sensual Oud).  Nicely done Art de Parfum!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Leather
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $135 for 50 ml parfum extrait

*Sample provided by Art de Parfum.  Opinion my own.


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Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale

WHAT I SMELL:  Sushi Imperiale’s opening is decidedly not sushi like as it opens with a warm crunchy bergamot and sugared orange.  The perfume is sweet, but not sugary sweet; instead its sweetened naturally as if it’s tinged with brown sugar.  Soon enough, the natural sweetness begins to give way for a more flattened floral spice.  The perfume is slightly gourmand, but that quickly moves away and the perfume begins to unleash a warm, shimmering radiance and a lovely warmed sandalwood comes to the forefront.  At this point, Sushi Imperiale becomes enveloping and rapturous…the base notes are a light blanket of comfort that don’t weigh down the perfume, but instead add just the right amount of security.  After this, Sushi Imperiale doesn’t transform much, except when it finally settles in with light and soft patchouli that feels tufted with light cotton.  In other words, it’s comforting and reassuring.

From Bois 1920:

An intense beginning where the citrus notes blend harmoniously for an eau de toilette that speaks of love.  The heart releases its spicy personality:  the vibrant and exotic luminosity of Pepper, Nutmeg and Cinnamon.  The fragrance develops into a brilliant and almost nonchalant wisp of woods and Vanilla of Madagascar.

Top notes are bergamot, mandarin orange and lemon; middle notes are pepper, nutmeg, jasmine, rose, star anise and cinnamon; base notes are sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean and madagascar vanilla.

Italian Crown Prince Umberto II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  To me this is less “sushi” imperial, but it is indeed more italian imperial, meaning that the perfume is fit for a prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUSHI IMPERIALE:  shimmering, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUSHI IMPERIALE: AustralianPerfumeJunkies, EauMG, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sushi Imperiale is a wonderfully wearable and elegant perfume that has surprising projection and longevity and is rather beefy for an eau de toilette.  This is a perfume that is perfectly elegant without being snobbish.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Enzo Galardi
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $140 for 50 ml EdT