The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


3 Comments

New Release: Le Joker – Art de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:   Le Joker takes an immediate dive off the perfumed platform with an explosive charge of pepper and spice which quickly sours into a menacing bite.  Before you can absorb the surprise of the perfume hitting the skin, a rush of leather enters the mix along with a moistened earthy black dirt accord that evens out the biting edge that came on so quickly.  Here, the perfume reminds me of a well worn leather jacket encased in many years and memories of sweat, cigarettes and the sights and smells of the city.  As Le Joker continues to develop, as weird as it sounds, the perfume reminds me of textured flannel sheets that carry a few nights of warmed wear; which I find rather comforting.  In the end, Le Joker’s rough and tumble attributes merge into a salty woody amber accord.  There is no doubt, Le Joker takes the wearer on one wild ride.

From the Art de Parfum website:

Le Joker aims to awaken different emotions in different people; inviting the wearer to be more daring, more evocative, and not afraid to make a statement or challenge the status quo.

This idea has been expertly shaped by Art de Parfum’s French perfumiers in this stand out perfume with its unusual, unexpected pairings, and intriguing ingredients which play with contrasts; light and shadow, moody, mysterious, dangerous.

Le Joker is a fascinating woody fragrance, intertwining fruity spicy notes with powdery notes of make up, smoky cigarette facets and salty ambergris. 

The overall character of the scent plays with contradictions yet creates a magnificent whole. Playful yet dark, the use of sparkling Timur pepper, which is still rare in perfumery, shines in this creation revealing spicy and tropical accents. The Timur offers a sparkling lemony effect on the top with nuances of passion fruit.

Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Timur Pepper, Elemi

Heart Notes: Star Anise, Nutmeg

Base Notes: Atlas Cedarwood, Cypriol, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The infamous ‘Joker” fits the perfume’s narrative to a T.  However, to me, the perfume tells the story of the New York City subway of the 1970s:  dirty and dangerous while at the same time exciting and exhilarating.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LE JOKER:  complicated, menacing, intriguing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LE JOKERThe Plum Girl, I Scent you a Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Le Joker is not a perfume that is meant to be worn at the office.  It is however, a perfume that evokes the wildly chaotic planet we currently live in and is perfect for wearing when you just want to take on the world.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml parfum extrait

*Sample provided by Art de Parfum.  Opinion my own.


2 Comments

Encore Une Fois by Art de Parfum – Limited Edition

WHAT I SMELL:  Encore Une Fois opens with a wonderfully rich bergamot sprinkled with a sparkling brown sugar sweetness. Very quickly, a swirl of light florals rise to the top along with a tinge of greenish stems. It’s lush without being heavy and it seems to bounce off of the skin. As its journey continues, a cedar note takes the perfume from the garden to the edge of the forest. Here, the sunshine of the golden ambergris makes the perfume radiate with a warmish hue of splendor and security. After a bit, a chalky flattened note begins to tone down the golden aspects of the perfume and moves it to the more woody. After quite some time, a caramelized incense rises lightly off the skin making the perfume more refined and rather mysterious with just the right amount of perfection. From beginning to end, Encore Une Fois is an interesting perfume in the most beautiful and original way.

From the Art of Perfume website :

Top Notes: bergamot, orange flower leaves

Heart Notes: purple, incense, peony, Lily of the Valley, saffron flower

Base Notes: ambergris, patchouli, cedar, benzoin, balsam perals, caramel, white musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sunlit woodscape.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ENCORE UNE FOIS:  journeyed, semi-bright, mysterious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENCORE UNE FOISAustralian Perfume Junkies , Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  At first spritz you do not expect that Encore Une Fois will transform from the bright and light to the more woody and mysterious. Such a transition might be jolting in many perfumes. Here, the movement in development is so seamless it feels completely natural.  Encore Une Fois is a beautiful perfume that’s worth the journey.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $200 for 50 ml perfume extrait.


8 Comments

Signature Wild by Art de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:  Signature Wild’s opening is bright and sparkling with a fresh blast of herbal spice which moves quickly to a bone dry flattened fruit.  The perfume takes on a slightly sour edge that feels like it has been drained of juice and has been left out to dry and age.  Soon, the sour and light decay start to retreat and a warm labdanum seems to roll on in like a fog covering the horizon.  At this point, the perfume becomes more rugged and incredibly sexy.  There’s a hefty beef that’s evident, but it’s not in the way that overt…instead it radiates confidence.  A quiet and subdued leather is then met with a lightly sweetened balsam and a buzzing vetiver.  Here the perfume remains…unassuming with subdued sexiness that’s easy to wear.

From the Art de Parfum website:

UNAPOLOGETICALLY DARK AND WILD.

This highly addictive fragrance combines a powerful leather accord with the boozy and syrupy davana herb and sweet delicacy of orange blossom

TOP NOTES: cinnamon, davana, cardamon

MIDDLE NOTES: orange blossom, dried fruits, radiant woods

BASE NOTES: labdanum (cistus), leather, sandalwood, Peru balsam, Haitian vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Robert Mitchum.  Smoldering sexuality and quiet virility.  A little dangerous and always in control.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SIGNATURE WILD:  self-assured, unpretentious, manly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SIGNATURE WILD:  Colognoisseur, The Scented Apprentice, I Scent You A Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Art de Parfum debuted five fragrances in 2016.  Signature Wild is my favorite in the line, but there is something for everyone from a refreshing cologne (Gin & Tonic) to a beautiful and mysterious rose oud (Sensual Oud).  Nicely done Art de Parfum!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Leather
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $135 for 50 ml parfum extrait

*Sample provided by Art de Parfum.  Opinion my own.