The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: parfum


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Iris Cendré by Naomi Goodsir

NAOMI-GOODSIR--Iris-Cendre-50-mlWHAT I SMELL:  Iris Cendré opens up cool, yet warm with a suede-like bergamot that starts to sparkle quickly with a dash of tangerine.  The perfume is semi-light and airy and reminds me of feathers descending to the ground after a pillow fight.  Soon the incense comes rushing to the forefront, but in a powdered and light-handed matter.  At this stage of the perfume, it feels like a giant powder puff of feminine floral magic.  What I find interesting is that you can feel the complexity and quality in the perfume, yet it carries itself in the most simple and elegant manner.  So where’s the iris?  It’s been there all along, but it’s soft, delicate and basking in warmth behind the other notes.  It doesn’t want to be the center of attention and instead choosing to be cool and aloof like iris can sometimes be.  As the perfume dries down, it becomes stripped of most of its moisture and ends it’s journey in a haze of incense which finally gives way to a light floral musk.  Iris Cendré has me mystified.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A fresh floral tone, led by bergamot, tangerine & spices. A rich & powdery heart of incense & purple iris. Sensuality is enhanced by cistus, tobacco & amber.

BlackSwanFeathersWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Black swan feathers.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE IRIS CENDRÉ:  elegant, elusive, restrained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRIS CENDRÉ:  Kafkaesque, Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Iris Cendré is an incredibly beautiful and restrained iris beauty.  It’s elegant simplicity and cool demeanor conceals a complex heart.  My only regret with the perfume is that the opening doesn’t last as long as I would like.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Noses: Julien Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.  


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New Release: Chypre 21 by Heeley Parfums

chypre-21WHAT I SMELL: Chypre 21 opens with a lovely rosemary tinged bergamot that feels clean and zesty.  The rosemary note adds a wonderfully different herbal twist to the opening of the perfume and is a lovely surprise.  Quickly, a saffron note joins in along with a bitter sour neroli.  The perfume is dry and rather woody, but quickly the perfume then moves to a light rose and patchouli.  As it develops the perfume is still dry, but has moved to a more pretty demeanor which is tinged with florals.  As the perfume continues to develop, the projection deepens and becomes more rounded but powdery.  After around the 30 minute mark, the perfume arrives at it prettiest point; it’s soft, powdery and dry, floral and completely comforting.

From the Heeley Parfums website:

An ode to Parisian chic

As from the early 20th century onwards, the chypre accord has undoubtedly been regarded as the quintessential French perfume. Chypre 21 however, is a creation for the 21st century whereby the main ingredients of a classic chypre: Bergamot, rose, patchouli, sandalwood and oak moss have been reworked to create a contemporary, unisex fragrance. The scent leaves behind a wonderful, slightly nostalgic trail with a certain air of Parisian chic that would have been familiar to the likes of Jackie Onassis, Grace Kelly and of course the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Italian Bergamot . Rosemary . Petit Grain
Neroli . Bulgarian Rose . Saffron
Musk . Oak Moss . Patchouli . Sandalwood

Cozy KittyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cozy kitten.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE 21: agreeable, comfortable, easy-going

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE 21: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  If you are looking for a big dose of oak moss, you probably will be disappointed.  Instead, Chypre 21 is a comforting perfume that starts off dry and powdery, but in the end turns into a nice and agreeable patchouli and musk.  Chypre 21 is an easy wear.


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Polianthes by Bottega Profumiera

PolianthesWHAT I SMELL:  Polianthes’ opening is soft and creamy and highlighted by a lightly spicy mentholated tuberose.  There’s an underlying candied aspect from the tiare flower that adds a light spun sugar or cotton candy dimension to the perfume.  After a few minutes, a woody note comes forward which decreases the light sweetness.  Though full of projection, the perfume itself is not heavy nor dense.  Instead, the perfume seems to hover above the skin.  But as soon as I write that, I find a rather creamy buttery note comes forward that brings the perfume back to earth and what was light and ethereal now becomes a sheen of buttery vanilla tuberose with a curiously dry undertone.  Here the perfume gracefully resides in its dry down.  A rather lady-like, but secure, existence at that.

From the Bottega Profumeira website:

Polianthes Tuberose or in common name from Latin “Tuberosa” is the note that gives name to this perfume.  “Sexy”, “heady”, “sultry”, “carnal” are the sorts of descriptions that are typically applied to tuberose perfumes, but in this case I add also “soft”, “reflective”, “independent”, “strong” like a complete woman is. All these peculiarities are in every woman and I tried to put all these facets in a single perfume. There is no sensuality without intelligence, there is no passion without strength, there is no love without independence… So the opulent white flowers of tuberose, thiaré, gardenia, jasmin match together with the solid notes of vetiver, sandalwood, teakwood…

Notes:  thiaré, tuberose, gardenia, ylang-ylang, jasmin, benzoin, frankincense, amber, vanilla, teakwood, vetiver, sandalwood

Taming the TigerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The taming of the tuberose tiger.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE POLIANTHES:  secure, buttery, harnessed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT POLIANTHES: Chemist in the Bottle, BL’eauOG

BOTTOM LINE:  Polianthes is the tuberose perfume for those who don’t want their tuberose to completely overwhelm or dominate.  Instead it politely takes its place where it’s lovely presence is noticeable, without being overbearing.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Maurizio Lembo
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
  • Expense: $150 for 100ml Eau de Parfum (plus 30ml travel refill)

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary