WHAT I SMELL: Vanille Charnelle opens with a sparkling pepper which is soon met with a vanilla gourmand rather almond-ish ylang-ylang. It’s sweet without being sugary and it smells like a baking rack full of cooling almond cookies. But there’s a bit of sour from either the ylang-ylang or the tonka that keeps the perfume from being too confectionary. The opening had me a bit worried that the perfume was going to rise up and scream. But thankfully, after a few minutes the fragrance begins to contain itself. The vetiver begins to come forward and with it comes a welcomed reedy woodiness that begins to dry out the vanilla. But even as it continues to dry out, the vanilla almond is front and center; albeit less sugared. After some time, the perfume journeys into a more floral realm and moves from gourmand to oriental. It really is beautiful in a richly opulent and exotic way. The notes are beefy and amped up and what was turning dry becomes ripened. Vanille Charnelle then moves to a decaying spiced floral that’s wrapped up in vanilla.
Top notes are ylang-ylang and pepper; middle notes are vanilla, tonka bean and white musk; base notes are vanilla absolute and vetiver.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: There’s something very nostalgic and 1970s about this perfume…very Annie Hall.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VANILLE CHARNELLE: charming, noticable, sentimental
BOTTOM LINE: Vanille Charnelle is a wonderfully spiced floral vanilla perfume the makes me want to reach for my tweed jacket. A little of the perfume goes a long way, so when spritzing, do sparingly.
WHAT I SMELL: Constance opens with the most inviting deep mandarin floral combination; it’s gorgeous, big, beautiful and rather buttery…and it’s thick and juicy and completely rapturous…oh, I could keep on going! In a short time, the thick sheen of juice soon begins to thin and soften and the rather fruity opening moves to a light spice with jasmine at the heart. Constance remains incredibly pretty, but the big, and bold moves towards the more mysterious and exotic. Vanilla sets the tone moving forward, but with a light hand. The perfume is so incredibly warm and inviting and it feels as if it pulses off the skin as if it were an extension of one’s being. Additionally, a bit of labdanum adds just the right amount of amber like dimension keeping the vanilla in check. In the end, Constance is this intoxicating warm and exotic floral that’s spiced, lightly powdered and incensed. Constance is a head turner and absolutely beautiful.
…perfect for those who love fruity and spicy scents, jasmine, luxury woods and vanilla…
The year is 1927…Constance is vivacious, passionate and chic; effortlessly elegant in tailored blouses and trousers during the day, but at night she is the centre of attention in an Egyptian-inspired beaded dress, red lipstick and daring high heels …
Classification: Feminine, but I could see a man wearing this as well.
Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.
QUENTIN
WHAT I SMELL: Quentinopens with a rather funky herbal tarragon and a cinnamon that mixed together is bold and smells a little off. This initial funk makes me wonder what kind of ride I’m in for. Soon enough, the herbal discordant opening starts to even out the rough edges and the mixture moves from the funkified to a more flattened woodiness and light leather. At this stage, the perfume is really dry and the leather is front and center and a woody vetiver takes its place next to it. In addition, a patchouli adds just a light sweetness to the perfume, but it chooses to stay in the background. For some time, there’s a noticeable petroleum smell, as if the leather was cured in oil and grease. But as the perfume develops, that starts to dissipate and a floral warmth takes its place. On paper, this smelled a great deal to me like Miss Dior. On my skin however, I am thinking not so much…that is until around 30 minutes into the wear. And that’s a good thing. Miss Dior rocks my world and it is about as masculine of a woman’s perfume as there is. As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes less Miss Dior and ends up in this petroleum fueled leather spiced musk. Quentin is a traditional scent fortified with just the right amount of daring.
…perfect for those who love assertive elegant woody scents, leather notes and musk…
The year is 1925… Quentin is charming, stylish and impeccably attired and is always impeccably attired in flamboyant style. You will often find him relaxing by day at the cricket drinking a fine Sauvignon blanc and at parties by night sipping champagne…
Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon Bark, Tarragon
Heart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Patchouli
Base notes: Moss, Leather, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The original Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE QUENTIN: bold, self-assured, headstrong
Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DECO LONDON PERFUMES: BGirl Rhapsody
BOTTOM LINE: The Deco London line beautifully captures the essence of traditional perfumery, but with a modern sensibility. As you can see, Constance is my favorite in the line, but the feminine floral essence of Millicent comes in a close second. For the men, Quentin has that modern edge that makes it unique, but Ernest is an incredible old school classic perfume. What a great start for a new perfume house. Welcome Deco London, you’ve made quite the splash!
WHAT I SMELL: Chypre 21 opens with a lovely rosemary tinged bergamot that feels clean and zesty. The rosemary note adds a wonderfully different herbal twist to the opening of the perfume and is a lovely surprise. Quickly, a saffron note joins in along with a bitter sour neroli. The perfume is dry and rather woody, but quickly the perfume then moves to a light rose and patchouli. As it develops the perfume is still dry, but has moved to a more pretty demeanor which is tinged with florals. As the perfume continues to develop, the projection deepens and becomes more rounded but powdery. After around the 30 minute mark, the perfume arrives at it prettiest point; it’s soft, powdery and dry, floral and completely comforting.
As from the early 20th century onwards, the chypre accord has undoubtedly been regarded as the quintessential French perfume. Chypre 21 however, is a creation for the 21st century whereby the main ingredients of a classic chypre: Bergamot, rose, patchouli, sandalwood and oak moss have been reworked to create a contemporary, unisex fragrance. The scent leaves behind a wonderful, slightly nostalgic trail with a certain air of Parisian chic that would have been familiar to the likes of Jackie Onassis, Grace Kelly and of course the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
Italian Bergamot . Rosemary . Petit Grain Neroli . Bulgarian Rose . Saffron Musk . Oak Moss . Patchouli . Sandalwood
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cozy kitten.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE 21: agreeable, comfortable, easy-going
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE 21: Colognoisseur
BOTTOM LINE: If you are looking for a big dose of oak moss, you probably will be disappointed. Instead, Chypre 21 is a comforting perfume that starts off dry and powdery, but in the end turns into a nice and agreeable patchouli and musk. Chypre 21 is an easy wear.
WHAT I SMELL: Vanille Charnelle opens with a sparkling pepper which is soon met with a vanilla gourmand rather almond-ish ylang-ylang. It’s sweet without being sugary and it smells like a baking rack full of cooling almond cookies. But there’s a bit of sour from either the ylang-ylang or the tonka that keeps the perfume from being too confectionary. The opening had me a bit worried that the perfume was going to rise up and scream. But thankfully, after a few minutes the fragrance begins to contain itself. The vetiver begins to come forward and with it comes a welcomed reedy woodiness that begins to dry out the vanilla. But even as it continues to dry out, the vanilla almond is front and center; albeit less sugared. After some time, the perfume journeys into a more floral realm and moves from gourmand to oriental. It really is beautiful in a richly opulent and exotic way. The notes are beefy and amped up and what was turning dry becomes ripened. Vanille Charnelle then moves to a decaying spiced floral that’s wrapped up in vanilla.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: There’s something very nostalgic and 1970s about this perfume…very Annie Hall.
The Scented Hound 