WHAT I SMELL: La Cologne de Rosine opens up with a bright and fresh citrus that feels like it’s splashed with a refreshing tonic. In a few minutes, a bright clean rose and violet combo give the perfume a pretty persona. For being a pretty girl, the perfume has some pretty powerful projection, but there’s nothing heavy about La Cologne de Rosine because the “big” is as light as a feather. After some more time, a light musk and wood bring a clean and slightly “bathtastic” brush stroke of powder to the beaming florals which are warmed with the lightest of amber. In the end, La Cologne de Rosine is a pretty rose tinged with freesia that is lit with rays of sunshine.
WHAT I SMELL: One Night in Rio opens with a luscious sweet and juicy passion fruit; like a bowl full of fruit and melon goodness, so ripe and with just picked freshness. Quickly a dash of pepper comes to sit on top of the fruit extracting the almost too much fruity juicy goodness to more of an exotic spiced cocktail. The perfume rapidly starts to dry and moves from fruity to floral. The florals are pretty, very sexy and round and robust…but still topped with a grounded pepper. After around 10 minutes, the vanilla slowly enters giving the perfume a slightly sweetened tinge. Add to that a light coconut and waxy suntan lotion note and the perfume now makes you feel that you’re walking along the beach at Impanema. One Night in Rio is interesting in that it lives in this other worldly state of sweet and spice, floral and pepper; which means that the perfume is completely and utterly exotic.
Night air strokes skin, cheek against shoulder, neck bare. Night air against curved back, touched gently, a new love—his open-armed embrace. Music catches up to you and everyone is dancing, the road is dancing, the cars are dancing. Guarded by its jungled hills, their wide leaves too green, night sky too blue, the city pools. Immerse yourself. Spread your arms out, lithe and swaying. The music plays inside you. Bright street, dark alley. One night to discover a delicate moment in full bloom.
Top~ black pepper, neroli, Mid~ passion fruit, tiare flower, magnolia, Dry~ musk, white amber, vanilla bean
The original Latina Bombshell – Diosa Costello
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfume is modern, yet very nostalgic…and invokes visions of a Latina Bombshell surrounded by big print 1940’s upholstery.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ONE NIGHT IN RIO: sexy, easy, lively
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ONE NIGHT IN RIO: I was unable to find any other reviews, except for a few comments on Fragrantica.
BOTTOM LINE: One Night in Rio is developed by A Lab on Fire, but is being released as “unbranded.” I’m not sure what that’s all about and does it really matter? The fact is that One Night in Rio is a fun and sexy perfume to remind you that even though it’s going to start getting colder soon in the northern hemisphere, you can always head down to Rio for a little summer fun.
WHAT I SMELL: Ryder opens with a lightly boozy ambered wood. It reminds me of the beginning of fall, when ashen wood meets the semi-sun tinged skies. After a couple of minutes, the perfume lightens and becomes a bit sweeter, like the sweetened tobacco sitting in the bowl of a pipe. Ryder is anything but brash or loud, instead the subtle rise of the tobacco and frankincense weaves around the wearer like an aura of comfort. After 10 minutes, a rounded and full-bodied jasmine enters and takes its place right in the middle of the composition as if it was the filling in an old and worn wooded box. What started off as of more of a standard woody perfume now takes on a new dimension of mixing the masculine and the feminine. The jasmine also adds a thicken headiness which gives the perfume more projection. In the end, Ryder is a spiced jasmine beauty that lives in the world of masculinity.
From the Ex Idolo press release:
A FRAGRANCE INSPIRED BY THE HISTORY OF MAYFAIR AND ST JAMES
True to the traditions of the grand houses of the golden age of perfume, Ex Idolo has created an exceptional blend inspired by the history of the members clubs of Mayfair and St. James in London. The fragrance is a juxtaposition of sweet tobacco and boozy notes against a warm woody-amber accord. The fragrance is anchored by a sparkling and ultra rare Omani (Hougari) frankincense. Although inspired by the past, Ryder is a modern fragrance; it is worth mentioning that although many of the members clubs started as male-only – a large number of them now invite women as well. To represent this, Ryder’s distinctive character has been enhanced with a heady, indolic Royal jasmine. Ryder is a unisex fragrance.
The one and only Marlene Dietrich
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Neither all masculine, nor all feminine, Ryder is the perfect old world gender bender.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE RYDER: confident, secure, bold
BOTTOM LINE: Ryder is the perfect scent for the coming fall months. It’s intoxicating and heady jasmine makes me look forward to the impending change of seasons.
Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody
Nose: Matthew Zhuk
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $185 for 50 ml Release Eau de Parfum
Matthew Zhuk, Ex Idolo
Mr. Zhuk, the creative mind and nose behind the Ex Idolo brand was gracious enough to answer some of the Hound’s questions:
The Scented Hound: The inspiration behind the perfume, “the history of the St. James and Mayfair” fits perfectly with the feel of the perfume. What compelled you towards this historical reference in creating Ryder?
Matthew Zhuk: When I moved to London 4 years ago I actually had the privilege of visiting a lot of these clubs. I’ve always been a fan of the things of old, antiques.. mechanical watches, you name it – so naturally it was very interesting for me. A lot of the things I saw and sensory experiences I had really stuck with me and I guess that’s where the inspiration came from. It’s not really meant to be a literal or realistic interpretation as some perfumes do with their subjects of interpretation – but rather my interpretation through the lens of memory and human experience.
The Scented Hound: Where does the name Ryder derive from?
Matthew Zhuk: Ryder Street is a street in St. James which once was home to one of the oldest members clubs in London – now there are some art, rare books and manuscripts dealers in the area.
The Scented Hound: Ex Idolo 33 was launched in 2013, why so long for a sophomore release?
Matthew Zhuk: I’m not a fan of brands releasing “x” many perfumes per year, quarter, etc – it’s not good for the industry and it’s not good for the consumer either. Of course, this is the open market and anyone can do as they wish – but it’s not really my style 🙂
The Scented Hound: Now that Ryder is launching, anything next in store for Ex Idolo?
Matthew Zhuk: Always ideas floating around – I can’t even predict which one will be the one to see the light of day. It’s quite possible that the next Ex Idolo product won’t be a perfume.
I love it when a perfumer and creative director aren’t led by the conventions of trying to create and market based on the latest trends. Matt Zhuk and Ex Idolo have really created something exceptional with Ryder. We’ll see how long it takes or what kind of product is introduced by the brand next, but I have the feeling it will be something pretty special. Thanks Matt!
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Large white fluffy cumulus clouds moving quickly across the backdrop of the bluest sky.
The Scented Hound 