fragrance | The Scented Hound

March 24, 2013
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Haute Claire by Aftelier Perfumes

About a month ago, I was lucky enough to be the winner of a Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes drawing. This was a real thrill as I have not really delved into the realm of natural perfumes and after hearing Freddie from Smellythoughts rave about the Aftelier fragrances I knew that I would be in for a lovely surprise. As part of the drawing I was able to choose 3 miniature perfumes from Mandy’s collection. Based on notes that I love and review of others, I decided upon Wild Roses, Secret Garden and my favorite of the three which I’m reviewing today, Haute Claire. Of course, Mandy couldn’t have been sweeter and actually sent me a few more samples along with the minis. My package arrived in the most exquisite box and the 3 perfumes were housed in these sweetly small bottles in their own little carrying case. As wonderful as the juice always is, the packaging just adds that something extra that makes it so much more special. Mandy obviously understands this to perfection! Now, these fragrances are masterful in their composition and you can immediately tell that they are blended perfectly and my nose is not sophisticated enough to really give the justice due with words, so please bear with me.

WHAT I SMELL: In the bottle it smells strong and biting and dare I must say, a little musty (galbanum?). Once you apply it, that strong and musty opening makes way for an orange and ylang ylang intoxicating delight. It somehow is fresh and cool and warm at the same time. It is substantial in that there is a depth, an almost layering of various notes that seem to rise and sink back each time I put my arm to my nose. I have always thought of natural perfumes in the sense of earthy and oily. This breaks that thought in that it is like a 1200 count egyptian cotton sheet; substantial, smooth and ultra luxurious. Haute Claire is thick and ripe and the honeysuckle sticks to the back of your throat. It’s not sweet, but it’s pungent with a thick and palatable consistency. I love to be intoxicated by a perfume and this does the trick in spades. After quite some time in the end you are left with a wonderful warm green vetiver fragrance. The vetiver is deep and luxurious and this is coming from a man who typically doesn’t care for vetiver scents.

From the Aftelier website:

Haute Claire is both crisp and soft, cool and warm. The fresh edgy greenness of galbanum is offset by the creamy floral of ylang ylang edged with honeysuckle. The green and floral notes harmonize in perfect pitch, with neither dominating the other. A warm base of vetiver and vanilla provides a soft finish of sweet grass.

Top: galbanum, Mexican lime, wild sweet orange, ylang ylang co2.
Heart: honeysuckle absolute, ylang ylang extra, clary sage.
Base: vetiver, ethyl phenyl acetate, vanilla absolute.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfume that I believe Mother Nature herself would be wearing as her signature scent.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE HAUTE CLAIRE: intoxicating, rapturous, wise (you can tell that Haute Claire was composed with a great deal of experience, knowledge and wisdom)

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HAUTE CLAIRE: smellythoughts, EauMG, This Blog Really Stinks

BOTTOM LINE: This was a wonderful surprise for me. I can’t thank Mandy enough for the opportunity to experience her artistry. I am thinking at this point that a mini of Haute Claire will not suffice. Thankfully, Mandy has 30ml EdP bottles for sale too!!! Please do check her website and all the wonderful fragrances and other products at www.aftelier.com.

Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Green
Nose: Mandy Aftel
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $50 as tested, 2ml perfume

February 24, 2013
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Daim Blond by Serge Lutens

WHAT I SMELL: I was just at the grocery store and I kept smelling Tide laundry detergent. I didn’t think much of it as I was at the grocery store, but let me explain that I loathe the smell of Tide. I would almost rather not wash my clothes than to have to use Tide because the smell is just nauseating to me. Well, as it turns out, when I got home I sniffed my arm and sure enough what I was smelling was me. Now, I spritzed this on about four hours ago and this was the result.

Let’s look at the beginning of this journey. Daim Blond went on so light that I barely could tell that I had put any perfume on at all. I got an initial whiff of cardamom, but then just a light touch of powder and then almost nothing. After what seems to be about 10 minutes, I started smelling a light sweet flowered apricot. It’s very sheer and almost candied sweet like Sweetarts candy. I don’t mind where the scent is at this point, but it’s so light that you wonder if it yourself that you are smelling or something else that’s in the room. Daim Blond is interpreted as White Suede, but I am not getting any leather whatsoever from this fragrance. But I have to admit that at this stage, Daim Blond albeit wispy is really quite pretty. It’s not until much later that Daim Blond transforms into Tide; which I won’t try to dissect!

From Fragrantica:

The top notes contain hawthorn, Ceylon cardamom; the heart includes iris, apricot kernel, while the base encompasses musk, heliotrope and leather.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Tide laundry detergent, but you already know that!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DAIM BLOND: faint, sheer, wispy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DAIM BLOND: The Other Scent, The Scentualist, Les Tuileries

BOTTOM LINE: Just one word…NO.

Bone Rating: 2 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Chypre Floral
Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
Classification: Unisex
Expense: Approximately $110 for 50ml EdP

February 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 23 Comments

Rose Nacree du Desert by Guerlain

I had forgotten all about this sample that I picked up in NY last fall until I was digging through my untested samples today. I thought this would be the perfect test for the depressing gray and blah Saturday weather.

WHAT I SMELL: Rose Nacree du Desert opens with an almost berried sweetened herbacious rose. It’s juicy and yummy and although somewhat candied in it sweetness it’s not what I would consider too sweet because it doesn’t scream. Soon enough, a smooth creaminess blends with patchouli and oud and the sweetened opening burns off. At this point, the fragrance becomes more linear, but with one little last twist of the introduction of a saffroned spice. If I can compare this to anything, I find that there is a similarity to Rose Oud by Kilian, but Rose Nacree is much more subtle and subdued. I love Rose Oud, but to me this is more elegant and translucent and a bit more to my liking.

From Fragrantica: A fragrance built on lush Persian rose, the legendary blossom of the east. Creamy yet dark, rose is given a mysterious air via saffron, patchouli and a hint of agarwood (oud), fanned on rich benzoin resin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: This is a midnight rose blossoming under the full moon with its lilting fragrant blossom enticing young couples into love and romance.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: dreamy, comforting, subtle

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: What Men Should Smell Like, Katie Chutzpah, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE: This is another exceptional perfume from Guerlain. I am tempted now to run to Saks Fifth Avenue to test out the other to fragrances in the Les Deserts d’Orient collection; Encens Mythique d’Orient and Songe d’Un Bois d’Eté. This is really lovely. In fact, I believe I need to put some more on now!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Theirry Wasser
Classification: Unisex
Expense: I can’t find this online, but I believe it’s between $250 – $300 for 75ml EdP