fragrance | The Scented Hound

December 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 29 Comments

Nuit de Noel Parfum Extrait by Caron

Twas the night before Christmas and all through the house, not a creature was stirring except for the eBay mouse. The mouse saw that a good deal was found, he had to make a purchase especially one so sound. A few days later a package appeared and the mouse found that his purchase was not to be feared. The mouse was so happy with this new scent, that there was no doubt in his mind that his money was well spent.

WHAT I SMELL: Nuit de Noel opens with a surge of dry oak moss with hints of florals rising out of the from the mossy base. It doesn’t take long before a spicy presence makes itself known. But I hate to use the word “spicy” because I think you instantly think of something heavy and dominating. But it’s not the case here as it’s just this a layer of warmth, which is like putting on a fur-lined glove on a cold winters day. I wish I could say that I could distinguish the florals in the fragrance, but they are blended so wonderfully that nothing sticks out. After some time, the oak moss dissipates and you’re left with this wonderfully creamy floral haze of a fragrance. Nuit de Noel is pretty, feminine and from another era. I love it.

From the Caron website:

In 1922, after the trauma of the First World War, Europe is seized by a frenzy of celebration and exotic escapism. As a testament ot the crazy years, CARON launches NUIT DE NOEL.

NUIT DE NOEL, whose name along is evocative of a magical, fairytale evening, this day continues to spawn a series of iconic limited editions. Pure design theatrically inspired by the roaring twenties, an opaque black glass bottle, encircled with an “urchin” style gold band conjures up all the mystery of a bewitching Christmas Night.

Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are ylang-ylang, tincture of rose and jasmine; middle notes are sandalwood and oak moss; base notes are musk and amber.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I can’t say that Nuit de Noel reminds me of Christmas. I’m not sure what it reminds me of except that is feels classic and timeless. But now that I have this as part of my collection, I’m going to make it my new tradition for wearing during the holiday season and specifically on Christmas Eve from this year forward.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NUIT DE NOEL: proper, classic, beautiful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT DE NOEL: Perfume Shrine, Bois de Jasmin, The Fragrant Man

BOTTOM LINE: This is one of those successful blind buys so I can’t speak for the EdT version of the fragrance, but have heard mixed things about it. I could see where if this was thinned out, that it might not be the same deep and haunting floral as the parfum extrait is. I could easily see my mother wearing this as she was getting ready for a party circa 1965. To me, that makes this a warm fuzzy of a fragrance. I think the mouse did an excellent job of finding this rather perfect holiday fragrance!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $230 for 28ml Parfum Extrait (current formula)

December 12, 2013
by The Scented Hound 6 Comments

Ecstasy and White Fire by Tiziana Terenzi

ECSTASY

WHAT I SMELL: Ecstasy opens with a honeyed pine, quickly followed by a nice hefty patchouli that has a top coat of rose. It’s a bit spicy and rather golden. After around five minutes, the pine which disappeared quickly before, comes back to the front. However, this time the pine is more pine fir, meaning that it’s more woody like that of a fresh-cut Christmas tree. Then after a couple more minutes in comes a warmer sandalwood. Ecstasy seems to have a great deal a movement to it which I rather like. After around the 15 minute mark, Ecstasy adds an almost sweet oudish tinge to the mix, but I think it’s just the pine that is playing some tricks on my nose…or just maybe just the pine and tonka bean combination that feels that way. After a few more minutes, add a little tobacco to the mix as the fragrance now smells like sweet pipe tobacco. It’s all rather intoxicating. In the end, Ecstasy dries down to a sweetened dried wood that reminds me somewhat of the drydown of Cuir Noir by Armani Prive’.

From the Tiziana Terenzi website:

The most intense journey into the “sacred fire”of the soul, in search of total authenticity in the suspended gravity of absolute beauty. It is an encompassing, mystical fragrance: original and with a strong personality. This fragrance was created the day of the death of Padre Evelino, in a kind of creative delirium inspired by the power of eternal and surreal feelings. The emotion and transformation of these moments are captured in an indelible and cathartic memory describing the sudden spiritual transition from boyhood to manhood. It is a fragrance which strikes you immediately and completely, with the same force as a punch in the face. This is thanks to the powerful, rich top notes of frankincense; immediately after, though, it slowly opens in a loving embrace and inner awareness to the chanting of white floral notes, the mystic power of Bakhoor, and fine wood. At that moment, you sense the power of the timeless love of someone dear, a love that merges with our soul in a religion of memory that gives a new sense of security and eternal strength. Your ego merges with the great cosmic one. In your soul there is “click” as in an instant you open up to the full dimension of being “grown up”.

Top notes: pine, spruce, stone powder

Middle notes: incense, patchouli, rose, violet

Base notes: sandalwood, amber, cistrose, tonka, forest land, ancient wood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cozy cabin in the middle of the woods.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ECSTASY: woody, comforting, content

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ECSTASY: I only found a couple of comments on Fragrantica.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 – 145 for 100ml Parfum Extrait

WHITE FIRE

WHAT I SMELL: White Fire opens with bergamot and a somewhat artificial green that almost smells to me like I was smelling wax florals sprayed with a faux scent. Soon enough some jasmine comes in with some clean linen smelling musk. And there it sits.

From the Tiziana Terenzi website:

The silence of the snow; its dazzling white brought alive and sparkling by the flickering flames. The good,clean fragrance is simple and silvery, like the carefree laughter of a child, and innocent and gentle as a loving caress. The high elevation campfire on a glacier in the Italian Alps; one phase of an adventurous and arduous ascent to the summit of Mount Cevedale; the excitement of waking up at sunrise to the wild and immense silence of the Dolomites. The crisp clean air, the energising fresh smell of snow, the intoxicating oxygen, and the dampened smell of fire on ice, all in the glow of the first light of dawn. This fragrance embodies the unique power and beauty of nature, crystal clear in our eyes, hearts, and our most intimate olfactory memories.

Top notes: green leaves, fresh ice, oxygen

Middle notes: Chinese jasmine, fern, white amber

Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Clean sheets that have been hanging to dry on a clothesline.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE WHITE FIRE: musky, clean, safe

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WHITE FIRE: I only found a couple of comments on Fragrantica.

Bone Rating: 2.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aquatic
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 – 145 for 100ml Parfum Extrait

BOTTOM LINE: Ecstasy was a pleasant surprise. I liked it, but found in the end that the drydown became a bit tedious, but for many that probably won’t be the case. Funny, I was expecting something named Ecstasy to be over the top and outrageous, but instead it turned out to be a comfort scent. As for White Fire…nice, but boring. The prices are pretty good for extraits though!

December 10, 2013
by The Scented Hound 26 Comments

Topaze Imperiale by Krigler

WHAT I SMELL: Topaze Imperiale opens with large blast of astringent alcohol, which then leads to this almost sour-smelling pine (kind of like dirty socks). Thankfully, that little spell soon moves into a warm spice that seems a bit nutty and smells brownish to me (yes, don’t ask me why, but it makes me think “brown”). After around five minutes, a little oud makes an appearance. It’s lightly chewy and again, moves out-of-the-way quickly for the sandalwood to take its place along with hints of vetiver. It’s smooth with streaks of sharpness that make it a bit lighter. Soon again there’s another change; this time a dry wood that comes into play. It’s a wood that seems to have been aged with some smoke and incense. After 20 minutes, the fragrance becomes very dry, highlighted with just a faint top layer of rose. Where before I could only think that this could be worn by a man, with the inclusion of the rose, I now think it of this as very unisex. All I can say is that Topaze Imperiale is classic and classy…and it lasts for a very long time.

From the Krigler website:

A rich mélange, grounded in a seductive Amber base, Topaze Imperiale evokes the undeniable allure of the precious stone. Intriguing top notes of Vetiver, Musk and Sandalwood lead to an addictive heart of Vanilla, Neroli and Oud before leading to the magnetic base that is accented by notes of Amber, Galbanum, Rose and Mandarin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: This reminds me so much of my beloved Amouage Fate Woman, but this is less powdery and contains more of a burnt wood effect which makes this more masculine. It’s like its Amouage Fate Woman’s big brother.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TOPAZE IMPERIALE: smoked, eternal, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TOPAZE IMPERIALE: I Am the Makeup Junkie

BOTTOM LINE: Thanks to the wonderful Daisy from coolcookstyle, who purchased this precious jewel at Sniffapalooza and gave me a sample. Topaze Imperiale is classic, with an incredible amount of subtleness. This is a keeper and I’m thinking that maybe it’s my turn for a full bottle??!!!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 50ml EdP from the Krigler website