The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Vintage Chanel No. 19 Parfum

1975-CHANEL-VOGUE-no 19 advert

WHAT I SMELL:  Chanel No. 19 opens with a brilliant rush of green, with hints of civet.  It’s breathtakingly beautiful, vibrant while topped with sparkling powder.  Soon enough a woodiness blends into a mossy dryness as the perfume pulsates off the skin. This is refined sexuality in a bottle with radiant but muted florals on top of a vetiver and oakmoss base and what seems to be a bit of dusty leather.  As pretty as Chanel No. 19 is I do find that there’s a darkness that lurks at the base of the perfume that provides a serious and in-charge aura of control.  As beautiful as this is, Chanel No. 19 is to me, a refined feminine butch perfume.

From the Chanel website:

Gabrielle Chanel’s signature scent, named for her August 19th birthdate. A rich blend of floral and green notes, followed by May Rose and Iris from Florence. The finale: a hint of Chypre with a subtle, woody Vetiver note. In parfum form, the most powerful, long-lasting concentration of fragrance.

Top notes: galbanum, neroli, bergamot
Heart notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris
Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk

Radziwell-Onassis

Jackie Onassis & Lee Radziwelll circa 1970

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The antithesis of the late 60s early 70s hippie.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHANEL NO. 19:  dusty, sophisticated, intoxicating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANEL NO. 19:  Perfume Shrine, Bois de Jasmin, Yesterday’s Perfume

BOTTOM LINE:  Sometimes conveying a perfume in words is next to impossible.  Chanel No. 19 is one of those perfumes for me as it defies my interpretation.  I will say however that the picture of Jackie and Lee is perfect for this perfume as I can see both of them lounging in their NY apartments talking, smoking and cocktailing it up wearing this timeless classic.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Chypre
  • Nose:  Henri Robert
  • Classification: Feminine – but easily worn by a man.
  • Expense:  Varies.  Review based on vintage the parfum extrait version.


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Caron N’Aimez Que Moi Review and/or How to Break a New Year’s Resolution in Under a Week and 3rd Year Anniversary Draw

N'Aimez Que Moi CaronWell, it was bound to happen; the fact that I was going to break one of my resolutions for the new year.  What I didn’t know that it was going to happen so quickly.  On my January 5, post “Goodbye 2014, Hello 2015” I posted the following resolution:  Only buy it if I ABSOLUTELY love it.  Probably like many of you, I am known to peruse the online offerings of eBay looking at the various fragrant goodies that are listed…and hoping for that incredible deal.  Well, a post caught my eye advertising a travel spray of Caron’s Aimez-Moi for $49.  If you have ever seen these little jewels of a travel spray, they are 20ml in size and are designed to hold the Caron urned parfum extraits.  Typically what these coffrets sell for is a bit over $200 which is a pretty good deal for 20ml of Caron extrait.  However, I questioned this posting, but immediately thought that the seller (who said it was from an estate sale) didn’t realize that what he was selling was not Aimez-Moi, but instead was N’Aimez Que Moi (by name alone this could be an easy mistake).  Aimez Moi is an oriental floral and is primarily found as an Eau de Toilette and it doesn’t come in parfum concentration which means is doesn’t come from an urn.  But N’Aimez Que Moi, a rose based chypre floral does.  So I took a chance and purchased the bottle for $49 and upon first sniff, I knew I had made the right deduction!

Caron Travel Spray

The lovely little jewel of a Caron travel spray!

WHAT I SMELL:  N’Aimez Que Moi (“love no one but me”) opens with this big enveloping and sharp metallic rose.  Like Caron’s Or et Noir, the metallic edge is biting and you wonder how this could ever turn into anything pleasant.  But after a few minutes the metallic edge is met with a puff of powdered dust, which helps to soften that harsh opening.  The rose, tinged with violet and lilac is voluminous and rather stiff and proper.  True to when it was created, it feels like a perfume from 1916.  Lying underneath the rose is a woody vetiver that is met with a light amber.  Even though the perfume is big, there’s something rather tender and heartfelt about it.    After 20 minutes or so, a creamy sandalwood comes in, bringing passion into the perfume, but a passion without lustfulness.  And further on, the oakmoss pulls some of the creaminess out of the perfume and renders a satined finish to the composition.  Most Caron parfum extraits require patience for them to achieve their “state of grace.”  N’Aimez Que Moi is no exception and when it does settle down after around the hour mark, this creamy, powdery and radiant rose becomes a restrained heaven on earth.

N’Aimez Que Moi Notes:  lilac, rose, violet, iris, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss

From the Caron website:

The First World War was raging, young women yearned for their loved ones who had gone to the Front.

N’Aimez Que Moi was given by young soldiers to their sweethearts before they left. It was a pledge of faithfulness, so they could renew their love vows every day until their men returned.

Early 20th Century HatWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The creative and beautiful women’s hats from the early 20th Century.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE N’AIMEZ QUE MOI : proper, creamy, nostalgic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT N’AIMEZ QUE MOI : CaFleureBon, The Black Narcissus, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE:  The Caron signature Mousse de Saxe is prominent in N’Aimez Que Moi which is a good thing.  As most of you know by now, I love my Caron and this is close to love but is more of a like.  But to find this gem for such a steal doesn’t make me feel one ounce of guilt in breaking my perfume New Year’s resolution.  Maybe this great buy is just a sign of the fantastic things that are going to occur over the new year!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Ernest Daltroff
  • Classification: Feminine

Lady CaronIt’s hard to believe that I have been at this blogging/review adventure for 3 years now.  What started as a fun way to make sense of a fascination of fragrance has turned out to be an amazing experience.  I’ve met some fantastic people, explored some incredible perfumes and opened up doors that I didn’t know existed.  It’s’ been fun.  And since this is an anniversary post and since we have to have presents at an anniversary party, I am giving away a 50ml bottle of Lady Caron Eau de Parfum.  In other words, it’s an all Caron post!  Unfortunately, because of shipping issues, I can’t include anyone who doesn’t have a US address.  To enter, all you have to do is post a comment on what your favorite Caron perfume is or what your favorite rose perfume is and why.  How simple is that?  The draw will close on Thursday, January 15 at 6pm EST and the winner will be picked via random.org and will be posted on Friday, January 16th so keep your eyes peeled for the announcement.  Good luck to all!


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Thierry Mugler Alien

MuglerAlien

Just digging through what seems to be the hundreds of untouched samples.  This is the first thing I grabbed…

WHAT I SMELL: Alien opens with a cashmere woody musk and cotton candy sweetened jasmine.  It’s slightly fuzzy and kind of sticky and it feels as if it’s sitting on a layer of gauze.  Very quickly I want it to tone down its sugar as the opening is just too sweet and in your face. After around 10 minutes, the fragrance still remains sweet, but the perfume loses some of the candied aspect, but what I get most of all of this clean musk dryer sheet.  Is is bad?  No, but it’s not great either.  Does it morph much past this?  Unfortunately not, there’s just lots of jasmine and woody musk.  The only thing that seems to be alien about the fragrance is that it’s taking over my body.  A couple of spritzes and it keeps growing and growing; enough to cake the back of my throat and burn my eyes.  Help!

Notes from the Thierry Mugler website: Sambac jasmine, Cashmeran wood, amber gris

dryersheetWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  pretty dryer sheets

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ALIEN:  sweet, cloudy, youthful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ALIEN: Now Smell This, Perfume-Smellin’ Things, The Candy Perfume Boy

BOTTOM LINE:  I am not the target market for Alien which harkens back to the perfumes of the 1980s where young girls would blot the local mall landscape with big hair and big perfumes.  I don’t think that mall rats still exist in today’s culture, but if you’re wearing this there will be no mistaking your coming or going.  As we used to say in the 80s, “just say NO.”

  • Bone Rating: 2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Dominique Ropion and Laurent Bruyere
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: Varied.  Review based on the Eau de Parfum version.