fragrance | The Scented Hound

March 9, 2015
by The Scented Hound 28 Comments

Roja Parfums Risqué (Creation-R)

WHAT I SMELL: Risqué (marketed as Creation-R in the United States) opens with a warm and sensual bergamot that is surrounded by the deepest rounded and lung filling florals that feel as if they are trapped in bosom of a hug and which at first is like they are fighting to get out of that hug, only to surrender and bury themselves deeper into the warm embrace of the feminine mystique. As perfumes go, Risqué is head swimmingly beautiful, yet there is this undercurrent of carnality that draws you in without release. I have said this before, that when I review a Roja Dove parfum, I always have to state that the blending is seamless and as such the individual notes af for the most part are hard for me to pull apart. This creation is no different. After around 10 minutes, the florals starts to sink further into the skin as if they are retreating to a more primal place only to then begin radiate and project from what seems to be a labyrinth below. There is a dusting of leather and civet that wrap themselves around the perfume like a cage that attempts to keep the cat from its prey. And finally, after an hour or so, a layer of creaminess covers the perfume, only to make the cat purr like a kitten. I don’t find that there is particularly a great deal of development with Risqué, but that’s the most wonderful aspect of the perfume overall. So many perfumes start off strong and interesting, only to be left as a shadow of its former self. Instead Risqué remains deeply warm, deeply carnal, deeply passionate and beautifully sensual. And as a plus, Risqué weaves its magic all through the night…leaving a whisper of itself into the morning.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“On The Edge Of The Forbidden”

WARM, DRY, FRESH, SWEET, & LEATHERY

“When I created this I thought of how society tells us how we have to behave, think, and act. So I decided to create a perfume that seemed tailored and disciplined – but as it develops it starts to show its overtly sensual base, which gets warmer, darker and more overt with each breath”. Roja Dove

INGREDIENTS

TOP: Bergamot

HEART: Chamomile, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang

BASE: Cedarwood, Civet, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The beautiful Simone Simon as Irena in the 1942 version of Cat People, who turns into a panther when aroused by passion.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE RISQUÉ: seductive, pulsating, intense

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RISQUÉ: Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: There are certain perfumes that hit us on a level that can’t be explained. Every breath of Risqué wraps me up in this enchanted and seductive spell never to let me go. This is a full bottle must for me so I better start saving my pennies…OK dollars, because I’m in love.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Chypre
Nose: Roja Dove
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $480 for 50 ml Parfum

March 4, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

New Release: D.S. & Durga Debaser

WHAT I SMELL: Debaser opens with a luscious pear that is all too quickly replaced with a very milky and creamy fig over a crisp green note. The bergamot gives it a semi sparkling radiance, but that too moves quickly to the side to make way for a woody note that seems to strip the green out of the fragrance only to have it replaced with a drier more hefty wood. Thankfully, the fig does a nice job to help maintain the fragrance from airing completely out . There’s a real comfort here in that as big as the perfume is (trust me it radiates), there is nothing here that goes over the top nor does the fig and coconut become suffocating. After around 15 minutes, the tonka comes to the forefront and there is a rather incensed and smoky edge that helps to continue drying out the perfume. There’s also a bit of a petroleum aspect that seems to reveal itself which adds this unexpected but welcomed dimension which takes Debaser from really nice to really sexy. In the end you’re left with a really lovely mossy and woody concoction that is nicely accentuated with a lightly sugared fig. Just note however that a little goes a long way. I can’t wait to test this in the heat of the summer as it will likely bloom and really project from the heat making it all that more sexy!

Notes from the D.S. & Durga website:

Top notes: bergamot, green leaf, pear stem

Heart notes: fig, coconut milk, iris

Base notes: blond woods, tonka bean, moss

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I believe the dashing Mutiny on the Bounty Fletcher Christian would smell like. Any of the movie versions will do. Who’s your pick? Clark Gable, Marlon Brando or Mel Gibson?

Fletcher Christian ala Clark Gable

Fletcher Christian ala Marlon Brando

Fletcher Christian ala Mel Gibson

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DEBASER: beefy, sexy, bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DEBASER: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: Debaser is based on the Pixie’s song of the same name inspired by the Luis Buneul and Salvador Dali surrealist film, Un Chien Andalou. To me this obscure and artful inspired perfume bypassed surreal and went to outright sexy to me. Hmmmm, surreal sexiness…have I just tapped into something?

For a video interpretation of the inspiration, click here.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fruity
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $145 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique & Apothecary

March 2, 2015
by The Scented Hound 61 Comments

New Release: Les Exclusifs de Chanel Misia

WHAT I SMELL: Misia opens with a powdery light and airy violet that quickly is accentuated by a lovely rounded almost plastic candy coated rose. Candied doesn’t mean that the perfume is overly sweet. In fact, it’s like a dusting of light powder that has been sifted onto the semi-sweet flowers. The fragrance has a sense of fragility about it, but there’s an underlying iris rootiness wrapped in the most subtle of leather that helps Misia to keep itself grounded in confidence. After 10 minutes, the fragrance begins to grow and the leather comes forward but in a way that ensures that it never takes the spotlight away from the pretty powdered florals. After 25 minutes, a slightly sour tonka comes in giving the perfume a greater amount of dimension. There’s a definite vintage makeup and lipstick quality to Misia, but at the same time, Misia has a dynamic that propels it into the present day. In the end, Misia becomes a pretty powder puff of violet and iris…but not overly pretty, you can’t accuse Misia of being too girly-girl.

From the Chanel website:

Named for the art patron Misia Sert, Gabrielle Chanels confidante. Evoking the air of a theater backstage, this exquisite scent features a feminine blend of May Rose and Violet, intertwined with a hint of leather. A truly inspired and distinctive creation.

Ziegfeld Model - Non-Risque - Dancers by Alfred Cheney Johnston

Ziegfeld Girls

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Backstage dressing rooms at the Ziegfeld Follies, full of powder, makeup and unbridled femininity.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MISIA: daring, unique, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MISIA: CaFleureBon, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: Misia is a temptress that keeps calling back to me with her siren song. I really like her, but am not sure if I love her, but there’s something so unique and special about her that I can’t stop thinking about her. Misia betwixts me!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Olivier Polge
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $160 for 2.5 oz. Eau de Toilette

The Scented Hound has two 2 ml samples of Misia to give away to two lucky readers (U.S only please). To enter the draw, let me know what your favorite Chanel perfume is or why you want to get to know Misia. The draw ends on Thursday March 5 at 6pm EST. Winners will be chosen via random.org. and will be announced on Friday, March 6. Good luck!