The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: floral woody musk


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Parfum Denis Durand – L’ÂME D’IRIS

WHAT I SMELL:  L’ÂME D’IRIS opens with a tender embrace of cashmere iris, warmed by a subtle kiss of mandarin. Dreamy from the first spritz, it feels like a celestial whisper. As time unfolds, the soft perfume is gently powdered with violet, replacing the mandarin’s sparkle. A familiar note of makeup emerges, fresh and promising, hinting at a glamorous evening ahead. Yet, this is no ordinary night; it’s an opera-worthy affair. The fragrance deepens and intensifies, revealing a luxurious heart of iris and musk that grows more captivating with each passing moment.

From the Parfum Denis Durand website:

The legend says:

Iris, messenger of Olympus from heaven, creates a rainbow illuminating the most precious flower in perfumery, the Iris.

This elixir invites you to dream of a field of irises in Tuscany on a spring day.

A game of contrast between warmth and freshness, sensuality on edge…

Head: iris, mandarin, lily of the valley

Heart: iris, neroli, violet

Base: iris, musk, ambergris, citron

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The white dinner dress worn by Leslie Caron, in Gigi (1958).

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’ÂME D’IRIS :  heavenly, beguiling, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’ÂME D’IRIS:  No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE: L’ÂME D’IRIS is a captivating fragrance that unfolds beautifully on the skin. It embodies everything I desire in a perfume. Its powdery allure casts an enchanting spell on those fortunate enough to experience its sillage. Without a doubt, this is a fragrance worthy of a full bottle.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 bones out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Woody Musk
  • Classification:  Leans feminine
  • Expense:  $240 Euros for 50ml parfum elixir from the Parfum Denis Durand website.

Sample courtesy of Parfum Denis Durand.


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New Release: Puredistance Papilio

WHAT I SMELL:  Papilio opens with a soft and serene warmed magnolia that immediately hugs the skin.  It’s enchanting, rather demure and very inviting.  The soft florals blend with just a hint of the vegetal which brings the earth towards the ethereal bouquet.  Blended so incredibly, the perfume at this point is less the sum of notes and is more of an expression of peacefulness with an added layer of fresh dewiness.  Papilio slowly builds in a radiant warmth that seems to born in a soft breeze emanating from the skin as it moves and lifts to the nose.  The perfume then begins to settle in to a light leathered wood that is covered with a hazy powder that sits above the warmed base.  Overall it’s pretty, delicate and light as a feather.  Papilio goes straight to the heart with its endearing beauty.

From the Puredistance website:

PAPILIO is multifaceted, lively and vibrant. Created by Nathalie Feisthauer in Paris. ‘Embrace your true nature’ is the concept of PAPILIO (Latin for ‘Butterfly’). Butterflies come in all shapes and colours and accept themselves as they are – in each phase of their life..

Top notes: Bergamot Oil.

Middle notes: Magnolia Oil, Neroli oil, Carrot oil, Orris, Lily of the valley, Hedione HC, Heliotrope.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Vetyver oil, Amyris oil, Intense woods Ambroxan, Opoponax resinoid, Benzoin resinoid, Vanilla, Touch of Peach, Leather Ambrette, Cashmere, Muscenone.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Butterflies in flight.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPILIO:  soft, uplifting, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPILIO:  CaFleureBon 

BOTTOM LINE:  I think I should be tired of saying that Puredistance has once again graced the perfume world with another magnificent creation.  But here we are again and it’s a wonderful addition to the Puredistance collection.  Sometimes a beautiful perfume is hard to put into words, but instead describing its persona is the best way to give it life in words.  Papilio is incredibly soft and somewhat demure and unassuming, but at the same time it embodies strength and beauty.  And most of all, it’s absolutely gorgeous!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Nathalie Feisthauer
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (25% perfume oil).


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Zoologist Cockatiel

WHAT I SMELL:  Cockatiel opens with a combination of muted fruit and tangy champagne which quickly moves to a warmed powder.  It’s lightly sweet and lightly candied as if it was concocted from an old confectioner of years past that can now only be found in tourist centric candy stores in mid-America.  As Cockatiel flaps its wings, an undercurrent of musk pushes out from the center to the bottom of the perfume.  It has a bit of a dull feel accentuated by a woody vanilla.  Here, the perfume smells a bit like wet socks that have been sprinkled with powder.  But that quickly dissipates and turns wholly to a soured spicy powder.  Cockatiel is different, but I’m not sure if different in this case is a good thing.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Australian spring arrives, bearing dazzling frocks of yellow blossoms to dress the bare golden wattle trees. Clouds of sweet honeyed fragrance, caught upon the breeze, carry an invitation inland, where a flock of cockatiels happily take up the celebration. Emerging from dusty nests, the birds are ready to preen and prance. On a wobbly stage of branches, vivid crests bop to the rhythm of their joyous songs. After a final encore, the flock takes flight. Alighting in a nearby field they share a delightful brunch, buzzing with the thrill of their stunning recital.

Zoologist Cockatiel exudes joy. A sunny burst of yellow acacia offers a friendly welcome. Dots of raspberry and tart rhubarb suggest a hint of mischief, like a pair of rosy cheeks beneath a golden plume. Finally, soft notes of musk and vanilla enfold the vibrant Cockatiel, like downy feathers cushioning the brashness of this cheeky bird.

Top Notes: Champagne, Raspberry, Rhubarb
Heart Notes: Acacia, Powdery Notes, Cashmeran
Base Notes: Guaiac, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ye Olde Candy Shoppe.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COCKATIEL:  soured, confectionary, muted

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COCKATIEL: No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Cockatiel is an interesting perfume in that the first half of its development it does provide the wearer with this mix of muted sugar and powder that gives the feeling of a bird flapping its wings.  However, the drydown becomes flat, somewhat sour and a little dull.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Sven Pritzkoleit
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $175 for 60 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 10 ml travel spray.