The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Naomi Goodsir: Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascese

cuir veloursCuir Velours

WHAT I SMELL:  The initial opening of Cuir Velours is cool and slightly astringent, but this lasts for a microsecond before it moves into a boozy rum and almost chocolately suede.  It’s ever so sweet and gourmand and to me it feels like a layer of brown sugar on top of a really fine layer of suede.  I love this phase, it’s completely yummy.   After a bit, a light incense comes forth which pares down the light sugar.  At this point Cuir Velours becomes ethereal and translucent like a light sheen of leather floating in the air.    In the final drydown, Cuirs Velours gets a bit sweeter in an almost fruited way, like sniffing a full-bodied fruity red wine.  Unfortunately, Cuir Velours disappears all too quickly on my skin and that’s a shame.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A deep & textured perfume, that evocatively encases the skin like soft velvet suede. A tobacco atmosphere supported by notes of rum, cistus labdanum, incense & fleur d’immortelle.

pretty ponyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The prettiest pony.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CUIR VELOURS:  soft, sugared, comfy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CUIR VELOURS: Persolaise, Smellythoughts, Perfumeniche.com

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Leather
  • Nose:  Julian Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $150 for 50ml EdP

boisasceseBois d’Ascese

WHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Ascese opens smelling like wet burnt campfire wood.  There is just a hint of cinnamon and whiskey to give it a bit more rounded sensation.  Bois d’Ascese doesn’t transform much. The smoky incense dominates and pushes everything else to the back.  To me, this needs a little more whiskey and cinnamon and less smoke.  Most surprising to me though, in the end I found this very much to be a comfort scent.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A captivating & reassuring smoke. Notes of tobacco & whisky, are supported by cinnamon, amber & cistus labdanum. Oakmoss, smoked cade wood, almost burnt, prolong the incense of Somalia with power & elegance

KOA CampsiteWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A KOA campground circa 1968.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BOIS D’ASCESE:  smoky, linear, woodsy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS D’ASCESE:  Now Smell This, Sorcery of Scent, The Scentualist

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Incense Woodsy
  • Nose:  Julian Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $150 for 50ml EdP

BOTTOM LINE:  I had not heard of Naomi Goodsir prior to Freddie from Smellythoughts providing me with these samples.  Both of these fragrances are very unique in their own way and their quality in composition makes me curious about the 3rd offering this house is launching, Nuit de Bakelite, which the Naomi Goodsir website says is coming soon.  BTW, the website and the packaging are par excellence.


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Kiki Parfum Extrait & Rubj EdP by Vero Profumo

Kiki ExtraitKIKI PARFUM EXTRAIT

WHAT I SMELL:  Kiki opens with a heady lavender doused in cream.  It’s gourmand and smells like a topping that you would want on top of ice cream or some other dessert.  There’s a caramel quality that gives it substance and depth which makes it slightly sweet but more of a rich and substantial sweet rather than a sugary sweet, if that makes sense.  Kiki is lightly warm and very cozy.  After a bit, a fruitiness appears that gives Kiki a kick of brightness.  As Kiki continues to morph the fragrance swirls and whirls while radiating off your skin.    I wore this the other night out to dinner and couldn’t stop sniffing myself and was paying more attention to the perfume than to my meal.  Finally Kiki becomes a lavender dream wrapped up in a light musk…am I in heaven?  Overall, Kiki transforms little and is pretty linear, but it is beautiful from the first drop.

Kiki Parfum Extrait Notes – lavender, caramel, musk, fruits

louise-brooksWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Louise Brooks circa 1928

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE KIKI PARFUM EXTRAIT:  heavenly, bright, lush

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARFUM EXTRAIT: Smellythoughts, Olfactoria’s Travels, Scent for Thought

BOTTOM LINE:  I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE Kiki.  I haven’t felt a love for a fragrance like this in a long time and that’s very exciting.  But the cost…oh my!!!  The parfum extrait is $220 at Luckyscent, which I believe has been raised from $185.  Why are the gods against me??

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones (trust me I am tempted to give this 5.5 bones!)
  • Scent: Aromatic Fruity
  • Nose:  Vero Kern
  • Classification: Leans slightly feminine
  • Expense:  $220 for 7.5ml Parfum Extrait

rubj-edpRUBJ EdP

WHAT I SMELL:  Rubj opens with a bergamot blast mixed with white florals including tuberose ( I typically hate tuberose but here it doesn’t dominate so I don’t mind it at all.)  After the initial blast of its opening, Rubj is slightly herbal, slightly fruited and slightly floral…nothing is dominating at this point and I wonder soon if Rubj will transform or if it will stay in this kind of netherworld of personality.  After a bit Rubj starts to get slightly tangy, but it’s a tang from the basil and the cedar which give the scent a greener feel.  After a while longer the cumin starts to come to the surface.  I know that many people don’t care for cumin in a fragrance, but I am not one of them.  To me it’s earthy and exotic and wonderfully masculine.  Rubj is warm and its herbal essence to me is incredibly comforting.

Rubj EdP Notes –

Bergamot, mandarin, neroli, passion fruit, cumin, orange flower absolute, tuberose, basil, cedar, oak moss, musk

herbsandflowersWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An herbal/floral garden.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE RUBJ EdP: spicy, green, snappy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RUBJ EdP: Perfume Posse, Kafkaesque, All About Scent

BOTTOM LINE:  Suprisingly, I find Rubj to be a comfort scent.  I find it easy to wear and I like the fact that it’s slightly exotic.  Beautiful.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Vero Kern
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $220 for 50ml EdP

BOTTOM, BOTTOM LINE:  Thanks to the sweet and wonderful Freddie from Smellythoughts for sending me these samples.  There is now a new Vero Profumo fan in the house and I am itching to sample her other creations as I have the feeling that they are all masterfully terrific.  Thankfully the line isn’t too large, but this could be bad for my wallet!


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Vintage Samsara by Guerlain

samsaraWHAT I SMELL:  Samsara contains a lovely thickened and slightly sweet creaminess which to me becomes cravable.   Yummy!   Fragrantica lists the top notes as bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang and peach.  They exist, but only for a few seconds.  Samsara quickly moves into the lovely stage where the subtle florals are seamlessly entwined in a way that makes it hard to distinguish between the notes.  It’s warm and intoxicating.  If I didn’t know this was a classic fragrance, I would say that it is.  After a bit, a woodiness arrives with almost what I would call a hint of a hair spray smell, but it doesn’t detract nor is it noticeable unless you’re really trying to sniff it out.  Samsara finally warms to a wonderful sandalwood where it becomes incredibly calming with just a lightly spiced floral.  It doesn’t take long for Samsara to reach it’s destination, but all roads lead to loveliness!

Samsara Notes (from Fragrantica):

The top notes are juicy and fresh: bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, peach and green notes. The heart is blooming in opulent flowers: elegant jasmine, cold woodsy iris, luscious narcissus, violet and delicate rose. The base is composed of sandal wood, vanilla, Tonka bean, amber, and musk

scarfWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A luxurious and exotic scarf.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SAMSARA:  smooth, elegant, timeless

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SAMSARA: Bois de Jasmin, Perfume Shrine, Yesterday’s Perfumes

BOTTOM LINE:  I picked this beauty up on eBay and managed to get a great deal on an unopened bottle at a great price.  I have no regrets and I have the feeling when this small bottle is emptied, a larger one will be on my list of “to buys”.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Varies.  Review based on vintage EdP.