EDP | The Scented Hound

February 16, 2015
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

WHAT I SMELL: Une Fleur de Cassie opens with bright aldehydes which move quickly into a mimosa note that is soft, airy, slightly fuzzy and which feels like it’s lightly infused with cotton. The fragrance is rather dreamy and ethereal, but as soon as I say that, I can feel the perfume begin to grow and expand. A hay like quality becomes the dominant presence, but the straw manages to remain light even though it’s saturated with modest florals which soften the perfume. After and hour or so, the fragrance moves its attention to deeper consistency with a bit of leather and earthy rootiness making the fragrance move from the feminine to the masculine, but as soon as I say that, the tender flowers seem to dominate again. Une Fleur de Cassie is interesting in that it’s pretty, but not in a traditional sense. Instead it is a captivating beauty made from the divinity of the earth through subtle and natural components, most prominent being the mimosa. In the end, the fragrance doesn’t morph and transform all that much, but that’s perfect as Une Fleur de Cassie is simple beauty at its best.

From the Frederic Malle website:

The rare and exotic cassie flower is not easily tamed. Intoxicating and coarse, its fragrance is from another era. But the modern and infinitely precise writing of Dominique Ropion makes of Une Fleur de Cassie a very modern composition. This perfume is composed by rare ingredients such as mimosa absolute, jasmine absolute, cassia absolute and rose absolute, with carnation as a counterpoint, set upon a vanilla and sandalwood base. Rich, intricate, complex – like an haute couture gown.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Emanuelle Beart as Manon in the 1986 film “Manon of the Spring”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE UNE FLEUR DE CASSIE: untamed, earthen, subtle

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT UNE FLEUR DE CASSIE: Perfume Posse, Smellythoughts, Grain de Musc

BOTTOM LINE: In reading the reviews cited above, I seem to have a much simpler ride with Une Fleur de Cassie than others. To me, the beauty in the fragrance is the simplicity in which it unfolds. It does seem to change and morph a bit with your body chemistry and I am wondering if this would bloom much more significantly on me when the temperatures are warm. As it stands now, it’s only 10 degrees outside leaving nothing to bloom at present! I have the feeling my sample of Une Fleur de Cassie is going to be drained within the next few weeks. Simply lovely.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Dominique Ropion
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $200 for 50ml Eau de Parfum

February 9, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Aerin Gardenia Rattan

WHAT I SMELL: Gardenia Rattan’s opening is soft and bright and then is quickly met with dewy florals that are warm, velvety and very understated. There’s a bit of salt that sits under the florals which acts as a very nice anchor to the radiance of the muted florals. This is as about as controlled of a gardenia fragrance that I have come across. Maybe it’s because the gardenia is met with a light tuberose which means that it doesn’t read “gardenia” but instead projects a lovely mix of light and creamy white florals. After around 10 minutes, a light coconut breaks in to give the fragrance more of a tropical feel. However, rather than give into a heavy lotioned feel, the fragrance still manages to remain soft-spoken and rather demure. After this point, Gardenia Rattan’s metamorphasis ends and leaves the fragrance in a lightly radiant haze of creamy white florals that seem to fold gracefully under a glistening nape of femininity.

From the Aerin website:

“Gardenia Rattan is the perfect Summer day – warm sun, beautiful sea and fresh flowers.” – Aerin Gardenia Rattan captures the spirit of Summer. Like a breath of sea spray, sparkling Wet Marine Notes envelop the senses while a gentle blend of white flowers including Gardenia, Tuberose and Tiare Tahiti exude lush femininity. Amber adds rich texture, like the last warming rays of the perfect Summer day.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Naomi Watts in The Painted Veil

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GARDENIA RATTAN: contained, feminine, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARDENIA RATTAN: The Black Narcissus, Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE: I really had no expectations going into testing this as this was at the bottom of my pile of overlooked samples. For a winter’s day it was almost 70 degrees today and I was looking for something that would put me in the mood for some spring awakening. Gardenia Rattan is really a beauty and so easy to wear. I could see this being perfect for the hot summer months…and in fact, perfect for all year-long. This was a lovely surprise…and I love lovely surprises!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral Aquatic
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $110 for 50ml Eau de Parfum

January 29, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

I love Shalimar and the intoxicating effect is has on me; it stands out in my collection as a classic and revered masterpiece. So when I reached down in my big bag of untested samples and saw the sample of Shalimar Souffle de Parfum I immediately thought to myself that I was going to hate it. I admit, that I was being prejudicial prior to testing this, but the words “souffle” and “Shalimar” together had me very concerned. Shalimar is delightfully refined and adult…I am wondering if this new flanker was mean to bring the kiddies into the big time…maybe like the perfumed Joe Camel?!

Peeps

WHAT I SMELL: Tangy lemon and then a buttered orange creme that’s surprisingly rich, lush, gourmand and inviting. I like the fact that there’s a sweetness about the opening that is rooted in the lemon, but without a high dosage of sugar. There’s also a wonderful shimmering hue that makes the fragrance sparkle. After around 10 minutes the jasmine takes center stage, it’s clean and fresh and topped by the citrus. I have to say that the fragrance thus far feels like a big chemical concoction. However, in this case, that’s not a bad thing. After another 5 minutes, Souffle (as I’ll call it from here out) starts to grown in projection. There’s a creaminess that comes forward combined with vanilla that makes the perfume feel like a cross between an egg custard and a Peep. The white musk adds a dryer sheet effect to the perfume which again, I feel like the combination of the Peeps, dryer sheets, etc. should make this a wreck. Well, it’s not. It’s just a flanker that is targeted to a younger audience and in that case, I would say that it works. In the end, Souffle is a lemony tart souffle that’s bright and sunny.

From Guerlain:

inspired by a fabulous Indian love story, Jacques Guerlain created the legendary Shalimar perfume in 1925. Now, Thierry Wasser has breathed new life into this legendary perfume, taking it to the heights of sensuality. A luminous, modern creation with notes of jasmine, vanilla and white musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An Easter basket.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM: happy, fresh, fluffy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM: Now Smell This, Colognoisseur, The Candy Perfume Boy

BOTTOM LINE: If you remove yourself from trying to compare this to the original Shalimar you’ll find that this is a nice light treat that’s perfect for a younger audience. And I have to say that the name fits perfectly…this is a souffle of a perfume!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Thierry Wasser
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $100 for 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum