WHAT I SMELL: Une Fleur de Cassie opens with bright aldehydes which move quickly into a mimosa note that is soft, airy, slightly fuzzy and which feels like it’s lightly infused with cotton. The fragrance is rather dreamy and ethereal, but as soon as I say that, I can feel the perfume begin to grow and expand. A hay like quality becomes the dominant presence, but the straw manages to remain light even though it’s saturated with modest florals which soften the perfume. After and hour or so, the fragrance moves its attention to deeper consistency with a bit of leather and earthy rootiness making the fragrance move from the feminine to the masculine, but as soon as I say that, the tender flowers seem to dominate again. Une Fleur de Cassie is interesting in that it’s pretty, but not in a traditional sense. Instead it is a captivating beauty made from the divinity of the earth through subtle and natural components, most prominent being the mimosa. In the end, the fragrance doesn’t morph and transform all that much, but that’s perfect as Une Fleur de Cassie is simple beauty at its best.
From the Frederic Malle website:
The rare and exotic cassie flower is not easily tamed. Intoxicating and coarse, its fragrance is from another era. But the modern and infinitely precise writing of Dominique Ropion makes of Une Fleur de Cassie a very modern composition. This perfume is composed by rare ingredients such as mimosa absolute, jasmine absolute, cassia absolute and rose absolute, with carnation as a counterpoint, set upon a vanilla and sandalwood base. Rich, intricate, complex – like an haute couture gown.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Emanuelle Beart as Manon in the 1986 film “Manon of the Spring”
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE UNE FLEUR DE CASSIE: untamed, earthen, subtle
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT UNE FLEUR DE CASSIE: Perfume Posse, Smellythoughts, Grain de Musc
BOTTOM LINE: In reading the reviews cited above, I seem to have a much simpler ride with Une Fleur de Cassie than others. To me, the beauty in the fragrance is the simplicity in which it unfolds. It does seem to change and morph a bit with your body chemistry and I am wondering if this would bloom much more significantly on me when the temperatures are warm. As it stands now, it’s only 10 degrees outside leaving nothing to bloom at present! I have the feeling my sample of Une Fleur de Cassie is going to be drained within the next few weeks. Simply lovely.
- Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
- Scent: Floral
- Nose: Dominique Ropion
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: $200 for 50ml Eau de Parfum
February 16, 2015 at 9:20 am
Liked your review of this one, and I thought it was hard to read when I smelled it in passing at Aedes in NY. Did you find it really mimosa centric or did you think more of a hay/woody scent? I mean it’s obvious that I smelled hay and think there was much more to it than that.
February 17, 2015 at 8:31 am
On me, this was more hay/woody, making it more earthy. But I think with heat and humidity and moisture, the mimosa which is prominent will really become the star. I rather like the fact that a perfume can morph with the elements and your skin and body temperature… that way, it’s like you get a new fragrance each time you wear it 🙂
February 16, 2015 at 11:14 am
Well this sounds lovely! You had me at the word etherial, hehe. Perhaps you should save a smidge of that sample for when the weather is warmer? Or maybe just get a decant for that experimentation. 🙂
February 17, 2015 at 8:32 am
I think you’re right, I’ll have to put this aside for future warm weather wearing. It really is pretty without all the girlieness.
February 16, 2015 at 5:48 pm
When I tested it I thought it was nice but it didn’t feel like it was worth the price: it’s too expensive for what it is – an uncomplicated light perfume. But now when FM sells individual travel sprays I might go for it to wear this Spring.
February 17, 2015 at 8:33 am
All FMs are pricey for sure. I do like the fact that they now have the travel sprays…more companies need to do that…and actually we are seeing some lean that way.
February 16, 2015 at 6:47 pm
This is on my wish list–your review has pushed it up the list! I recall that haunting movie Manon of the Spring, and that connection alone makes the fragrance all that much more interesting to me.
February 17, 2015 at 8:38 am
Deborah, I hate that I may be an enabler….but if it presses you towards the purchase of something so pretty, then I don’t feel quite as bad. Enjoy 🙂
February 16, 2015 at 7:37 pm
Save some for warmer times. Not much smells good lately. It’s too cold! We had a -38°F wind chill this morning. That’s not good sniffing weather.
This one seems lovely but probably a bit too light for me.
February 17, 2015 at 8:40 am
My dear Poodle, I think that this would bloom in the heat, it’s not all that too light. I understand the dirge of the cold weather situation. I have been stuck in the house now for a few days…only the big obnoxiousness of Ysatis has been able to keep me sane. And it smells lovely when I’m shoveling snow 🙂
February 17, 2015 at 3:42 am
For me this is one of a kind perfume. 🙂 It took me a while to start liking it (and then loving it) and I don’t remember ever smelling something similar.
February 17, 2015 at 8:44 am
Ines, it is different for sure. The only thing that I really can compare it to is Caron’s Farnesiana. However, Farnesiana is a more buttery concoction that isn’t quite as subtle as this (who ever calls FM perfumes subtle???!! LOL). This would be a nice addition to any collection, but it is not a daily wear perfume….it would require the right time and place.
February 17, 2015 at 7:15 pm
A great fragrance in the pretty range. If not ephemeral french perfume. It does work for me during the winter. Both mimosa and cassia bring in the sun -heartstrenghtening element in the cold- I feel. In warm weather it seems more powdery, cotton sweet.
February 17, 2015 at 9:02 pm
If only it could be summer now so that I could find that powdery cotton sweetness! I can’t wait for the heat to see it transform. Thanks for stopping by Solou!
February 18, 2015 at 5:13 am
This is one of those intriguing perfumes that you have made me a little more eager to try. Merci!
February 18, 2015 at 8:06 am
Megan – I do think that it’s really an unsung gem that doesn’t get much attention. I would love to get your thoughts if you do try it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
June 15, 2018 at 12:06 am
I’m glad to be reminded of this one, it is one of my favourites. So refined and elegant.