EDP | The Scented Hound

March 18, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Tableau de Parfums Miriam

WHAT I SMELL: Miriam’s opening is comprised of sweet bergamot and light aldehydes which are quickly met with warmed geranium. Immediately, Miriam feels old school with a distinctive make-up, lipstick and violet laced presence. I was expecting the opening to be lighter and more powdery. Instead, it’s a smooth almost honeyed mix of florals accentuated at first by violet, but then with rose and jasmine. Suprisingly restrained, the perfume provides an aura of self-assuredness and strength, while maintaining its femininity. Even though it feels nostalgic, there’s nothing sweet or innocent in the perfume. After around 10 minutes, a deeper projection of sandalwood and what feels like a tinge of civet, continues to bring a more woody confidence to this beautiful perfume. After 20 minutes, Miriam begins to project. The warmth of the opening, moves toward a dry and powdery mix of lavender and orris root. In fact, when sniffed, the dryness pulls the wet out of my throat and nose. In the end, you’re left with a powdered puff of violet laced haze of a perfume. And even though there’s a quiet confidence in Miriam that is all woman, there’s no messing with this in control no-nonsense beauty.

From the Tableau de Parfums website:

Miriam references the heady, diffusive fragrances of the thirties and forties. It is vintage in spirit but with a contemporary character. A fragrance constructed in the tradition of classic perfumery, Miriam is the kind of fragrance they don’t make much anymore.

Notes: bergamot, sweet orange, geranium, violet blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang, violet leaf, lavender, vanilla, orris root, sandalwood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A 1940’s Joan Crawford; in-between all woman and all out dame.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MIRIAM: nostalgic, confident, captivating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MIRIAM: Bonkers About Perfume, EauMG, Persolaise

BOTTOM LINE: The sample has been sitting on my office desk for a few days now and when I walk in the room, the fragrance lingers within the confines of the room. It reminds me of my mother when I was a child when I would walk in my parents bedroom and I could still smell the powder and the lipstick from the evening before. Miriam is like a lovely dream from the past. Recently I reviewed Chanel’s Misia which has a similar makeup vibe; Miriam is much more my cup of tea.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Aldehyde
Nose: Andy Tauer
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $165 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum and $40 for 7 ml purse spray (I love that option!)

March 16, 2015
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

T. Habanero by Rania J.

WHAT I SMELL: T. Habanero opens with a discordant spiced shoe leather that’s covered in dung. It’s thick, fecal and a huge slap in the face. I am hoping that the fragrance veers away from this bomb of a cow patty and thankfully after a few minutes it does. That was the strangest opening that I have come across in a long time! Thankfully after around 5 minutes a lightly woody and nutty cardamom comes to the forefront. It’s peppered and it brings the perfume from heavy to a lighter range, lifting the perfume out of the initial depths. But even though this helps to make the perfume lighter there is a darker and dangerous edge to the scent. The oud, smoke and a dirty leather make this feel like a perfume that you should wear to a back room poker game. There is nothing feminine about T. Habanero…it’s all man. After around 20 minutes, the perfume hits its’ sweet spot when it gets to its dry, woody, smoky and slightly nutty conclusion that seems to rise off of the skin like the smoke at the end of a lit cigar.

From the Rania J. website:

Tobacco Habanero is a spicy, dark & fresh black Tobacco with the Rhythm of Cuban nights… A dance on the hot and mysterious notes which combine grace and love of life. High energy and deep emotions.

Top note : Pink & Black pepper, Cardamom
Middle Note : Black tobacco
Base Note : Sandalwood, Agarwood/Oud, Incense, Myrrh, Leather

I couldn’t resist…dogs playing poker!

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A back room poker game full of smoke, sweat and grit.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE T. HABANERO: funky, dry, manly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT T. HABANERO: Parfumistans blogg

BOTTOM LINE: The fecal opening was an eye opener if there ever was one and I’m not sure that spritzing on some funk is how I want to start off a wearing of perfume. But the fragrance settles down to a nice and easily wearable woody perfume that would work for a man who likes his fragrances less unisex and more manly without being overly butch.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
Nose: Rania Jouaneh
Classification: Leans masculine
Expense: $149 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique & Apothecary

March 4, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

New Release: D.S. & Durga Debaser

WHAT I SMELL: Debaser opens with a luscious pear that is all too quickly replaced with a very milky and creamy fig over a crisp green note. The bergamot gives it a semi sparkling radiance, but that too moves quickly to the side to make way for a woody note that seems to strip the green out of the fragrance only to have it replaced with a drier more hefty wood. Thankfully, the fig does a nice job to help maintain the fragrance from airing completely out . There’s a real comfort here in that as big as the perfume is (trust me it radiates), there is nothing here that goes over the top nor does the fig and coconut become suffocating. After around 15 minutes, the tonka comes to the forefront and there is a rather incensed and smoky edge that helps to continue drying out the perfume. There’s also a bit of a petroleum aspect that seems to reveal itself which adds this unexpected but welcomed dimension which takes Debaser from really nice to really sexy. In the end you’re left with a really lovely mossy and woody concoction that is nicely accentuated with a lightly sugared fig. Just note however that a little goes a long way. I can’t wait to test this in the heat of the summer as it will likely bloom and really project from the heat making it all that more sexy!

Notes from the D.S. & Durga website:

Top notes: bergamot, green leaf, pear stem

Heart notes: fig, coconut milk, iris

Base notes: blond woods, tonka bean, moss

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I believe the dashing Mutiny on the Bounty Fletcher Christian would smell like. Any of the movie versions will do. Who’s your pick? Clark Gable, Marlon Brando or Mel Gibson?

Fletcher Christian ala Clark Gable

Fletcher Christian ala Marlon Brando

Fletcher Christian ala Mel Gibson

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DEBASER: beefy, sexy, bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DEBASER: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: Debaser is based on the Pixie’s song of the same name inspired by the Luis Buneul and Salvador Dali surrealist film, Un Chien Andalou. To me this obscure and artful inspired perfume bypassed surreal and went to outright sexy to me. Hmmmm, surreal sexiness…have I just tapped into something?

For a video interpretation of the inspiration, click here.