The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: 4 bones


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Vintage Narcisse Blanc by Caron

WHAT I SMELL:  Narcisse Blanc opens with a peppery warm and indolic orange blossom and neroli.  It’s thick, waxy and completely intoxicating.  Quickly, a petitgrain note emerges to bring the floating blossoms towards the earth with a greenish touch of grass.  There’s nothing easy or breezy about this perfume.  Instead, it’s beauty is in the realm of the mature.  Big and round as more florals come in punctuated with the rose, Narcisse Blanc is less mysterious than it’s counterpart, Narcisse Noir, but to me, much more accessible.  However, that’s not to say that it doesn’t hold it’s wearer in some contempt, as there is a bit of haughtiness and aloofness about it without it being cold in nature.  As the perfume continues to expand and radiate, the warmth of the base begins to move towards the still waxy blossoms.  Vetiver adds just a bit of a brownish grass and a sandalwood brings a little bit of sour.  Narcisse Blanc never got the love that Narcisse Noir did.  Too bad, because it’s every bit as beautiful.

Top notes are Orange Blossom, Neroli, Orange and Petitgrain; middle notes are Jasmine, tincture of rose and Lime; base notes are iris, Musk, Sandalwood, vetyver and Amber.

The Dowager Queen Lovisa Ulrika of Sweden.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dowager.  A lady of means who is completely in charge.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NARCISSE BLANC: bold, in-control, substantial

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NARCISSE BLANC:  Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  Narcisse Blanc is beautiful, no question about it.  But it’s not young, nor carefree, but instead is grand floral that means serious business.  Caron, which for some reason seems to be largely hidden (at least in the US), has a new reissue of Narcisse Blanc, but I have no idea how it compares to this vintage beauty.  I do have the feeling however that it has been reformulated to be a bit lighter and brighter.  But as for this vintage version that came from those long gone fabulous urns in the now closed NYC boutique; it’s a grand old perfume that isn’t meant for every day wear, but seems to be made for those special occasions when you want to feel rather royal.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:   Ernest Daltroff
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Review based on the vintage parfum extrait version.  You can find the latest version of Narcisse Blanc at the Caron website.


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Amouage Meander

WHAT I SMELL:  Meander opens with a warm and lightly sweet and inviting olibanum that is quickly met with an amazingly beautiful carrot note.  It’s not carrot from the earth, but one that’s fresh and dewy and lightly nutty and surprisingly gourmand.  Soon the carrot is met with the softest of rose along with a buttery orris.  Together they provide a aura sheen that’s smooth as silk.  As Meander continues on its’ path, the perfume begins to grow and radiate.  It’s thick and rich and incredibly elegant and warm…and it’s at this point the orris feels as if it has been ladled over the luxurious Rose and Jonquille absolute.  After some time, an incense begins to hover above the orris infused florals.  It’s very light but adds just a hint of mystery to the already beautifully warmed heart.  This perfume is beyond gorgeous, it’s dreamy and quite voluminous, but so incredibly comforting while being quite grand.

Notes from the Amouage website:

A synergy of fresh Pink Pepper and vivifying Black Pepper, together with a dense, fruity and chalklike Carrot Heart bring alive the all-encompassing fogs of monsoon season.

Serene and steady, they drape over a lush landscape of emerald Jonquille Absolute and lavish Rose Absolute, before climbing over pale cliffs of earthy Orris and dark, humid groves of Cypriol.

Surreal march of white Sandalwood mists, they creep overhill and underhill until at last they meet the unending desert, still hot with the scent of dry Vetiver and balsamic Frankincense Resinoid – the unbreakable barrier.

Intricate blend of woods and flowy spices, Meander captures the exhilarating feeling of happiness when the south of Oman turns into a land of haze and running streams.

    • Top Notes: Olibanum Oil, Carrot Heart, Pink Pepper CO² & Black Pepper Oil.
    • Heart Notes: Orris, Rose Absolute, Cypriol Heart & Jonquille Absolute.
    • Base Notes: Olibanum Resinoid, Vetiver Oil, & Sandalwood Oil.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A languid nap on a warm afternoon.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MEANDER  creamy, soothing, encompassing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MEANDER: Carpe Odor, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Meander is so warm and beautiful; it almost has a heartbreaking feel about it as it’s filled with great emotion.  At the same time it also has as dreamlike quality about it that makes you want to drift off in an embrace within its comforting arms.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Amber Fougere
  • Nose:  Mackenzie Reilly
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $265 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Aqua Vitae Cologne forte

WHAT I SMELL:  Aqua Vitae Cologne forte opens with an exuberant bergamot and a fresh and juicy citrus that’s contained in a lushly rounded wrap of the prettiest of florals.  The perfume is bright, yet warmed like citrus in the sun, and the citrus is less the actual fruit, but instead is more akin to the waxy peel of orange and lemon.  As the perfume develops, the floral sweetness mutes slightly and a sandalwood note brings a bit more warmth and depth to the composition along with layer of clean musks that add a a wrap of light muslin around this incredibly soft, but radiant perfume.  Aqua Vitae Cologne forte is a completely rapturous perfume that is gorgeous without being overly formal.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

Mandarin from Italy gives bright freshness to the bergamot, leading to a luminous, citrusy and sunny floral scent. Vibrating in unison in a halo of warm light, Aqua Vitae Cologne forte is a pampering eau de parfum whose trail is saturated with sun and sensual musks boosted by sandalwood from India.

Notes:  Musks, Bergamot, Mandarin

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sunshine.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AQUA VITAE COLOGNE FORTE:  easy-to-wear, radiant, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA VITAE COLOGNE FORTE:  Velvet Life, Contents

BOTTOM LINE:  Aqua Vitae Forte cologne (which is an eau de parfum) is my summer go-to perfume.  It is so fantastically refreshing and perfect for beating the heat.  And unlike some perfumes worn in the heat, this doesn’t become cloying, nor does it fade away with the sun.  I can easily say that Aqua Vitae Forte cologne will always be a part of my summer perfume collection.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus
  • Nose:  Francis Kurkdjian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $235 for 70 ml eau de parfum