The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Orlando by Jardins d’Ecrivains

orlando_jardin_decrivain_jpg_8228_north_680x840_whiteWHAT I SMELL:  Orlando, named after the title character from the Virginia Woolf novel of the same name opens with a combination of spicy orange and ginger.  There’s almost a minty quality about the opening which quickly then moves into a mentholated stage as it’s deep and thick as you breath it in.  I’ve never smelled camphoric patchouli like it is here.  Amber is added to the progression, but it’s not warm and fuzzy,  but instead is distant and at arm’s length.  After around 20 minutes, Orlando becomes lighter and begins to even out with a woody consistency.   There is a tang of sour from the gaiaic wood that comes to play and a musk creates a layer of haze over the composition.  Around the 30 minute mark, out comes a urinous quality that doesn’t take away from the scent, but actually adds a bit of additional mystery.  Orlando becomes lighter as it wears, but by no means does it disappear and it seems to rotate the notes each time you take a sniff; sometimes spicy, sometime musky, sometimes lighter, but never too wispy or demure.

From the Jardins d’Ecrivains website:

Jardins d’Ecrivains puts its own interpretation on the fascinating Virginia Woolf fantasy. An androgynous character with eternal youth, Lord Orlando in the Elizabethan era becomes Lady Orlando in the 18th century.  Quirky blends with the eclectic and timeless in a spellbinding fragrance. Irrational dreams, an eastern monarchy and a sense of the divine linger in its wake.  A unusual character comes through in the first notes, before the transcendent heart of the fragrance draws you in. And the warm, soft base notes convey its delicate spirit.

Olfactive pyramid:

Top notes : Orange – Pink peppercorn – Ginger

Middle Notes : Amber – Patchouly – Cloves

Base notes : Wood of Gaiac – Musk – Balsam of Peru

melancholyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Melancholy

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ORLANDO:  mysterious, conflicted, emotional

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ORLANDO:  Cafleurebon, BL’eauOG

BOTTOM LINE:  Orlando is a strange perfume for me.  It’s a fragrance that seems to draw some very primal emotions from inside me.  It’s beautiful and pensive and is not something that I could ever wear on a daily basis.  However, it’s the perfect fragrance for those quiet fall and winter days when you just want to retreat into your own private world.   I was lucky enough to win a full bottle of Orlando from a draw on Cafleurebon, and its the first fragrance that I have ever tried from Jardins d’Ecrivains.  If they are all this beautiful, I have to try the rest.  Oh, and the bottle is perfection; simple, substantial and classic.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Woody Spicy
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $110 for 100ml EdP, available at Beautyhabit.com


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Noontide Petals by Tauer Perfumes

noontide petalsWHAT I SMELL:  Noontide Petals opens with seriously bright aldehydes and almost Pixy Stix like candied sweetened bergamot.  Finally, that bright opening which feels to me like temporary blindness when the sun is caught in your car’s rear view mirror, gives way to a creamy florals with ylang-ylang in the forefront.  After about 10 minutes or so, the various notes start to blend seamlessly with a warm sandalwood which deepens the fragrance into an all-encompassing well.  Added to the warm blend is a slight powder which give this an old-fashioned and classic feel.  In the end, Noontide Petals resides in this nice, even, warm and slightly powdered patchouli deliciousness.

From the Tauer Perfumes website:

Head Notes:  A glittering opening:  Bergamot, sparkling aldehydes softened by Bourbon geranium.

Heart Notes:  A seductive chord of bright petals: Finest rose, ylang, tuberose, jasmine.

Body Notes:  A supple and sensuous gleam:  Patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, sandalwood, iris, with a hint of styrax and vetiver.

1962bagflowersWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  1962

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NOONTIDE PETALS:  nostalgic, warm, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOONTIDE PETALS: I Scent You a Day, Chemist in a Bottle, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE:  I was worried that I would never find an Andy Tauer fragrance that I liked.  What I have sampled thus far has been challenging at best.  Noontide Petals breaks that mold and I could seriously see myself with a full bottle in the future.  Thanks Andy!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral Aldehyde
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Unisex – but leans feminine
  • Expense:  $120 for 50ml EdT


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Les Nombres d’Or Violette Fumee by Mona di Orio Parfums

violettefumeeWHAT I SMELL: Violette Fumee opens with the most beautiful lavender and bergamot combination; it’s herbal and refreshing in a creamy comforting way.  After a few minutes, the fragrance starts to warm and become deeper as a beefy oakmoss emerges from the bottom that envelopes and seems to fold over the lavender.  After about 10 minutes or so, the violet seems to make an appearance from the edge of the fragrance.   I know this is going to sound strange, but it’s appearance is like prairie dogs popping their head out of the ground.  What I mean is that the violet doesn’t come out at once, but seems to pop in and out until eventually you feel like you are surrounded by violets tinged with rose.  Violette Fumee at this point still retains its creaminess but it becomes slightly brighter without becoming sheer.  What I love about this is that the herbal aspects of the fragrance keep this from becoming too floral and pretty which allow Violette Fumee to retain a substantive elegance.  After some time, the myrrh and opoponax emerge from below and a slight suede provides for a beautiful finish to this multi-faceted fragrance.

Violette Fumee Notes:

Top notes:  Mediterranean Lavender, Bergamot from Calabria, Oakmoss from the Balkans

Heart notes:  Violet flowers and leaves from Egypt, Turkish Rose, Veitver from Haiti, Clary Sage

Base notes;  Opoponax and Myrrh from Somalis, Cashmeran

Viola-odorataWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A page from a 19th century botanical illustrative leather bound book.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VIOLETTE FUMEE:  transformative, calming, elegant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VIOLETTE FUMEE: Cafleurebon

BOTTOM LINE:  Violet fragrances have not been my friend in the past as I find that they are typically too feminine for my taste.  Violette Fumee breaks that mold.  The violet doesn’t completely dominate and take over in a sweet and simplistic fashion.  The first time I wore this, I really liked it, but the 2nd time I have to say that I loved it.  Voilette Fumee is an elegant and substantial fragrance, that holds layers upon layers of wonderful surprises.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Fougere
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  EdP Intense to be launched in September 2013

Promotional sample provided by Mona Di Orio Parfums.